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1
Chassis/Engine Repair / Re: 1998 Country Coach Intrigue Series Generator issue & location of block heater
Last post by Smitty -
Hi John,

Going to make an assumption that it's a Cummins 8.3, probably the ISC(?). Cold weather is hard on a few key components related to starting. First, oil will get a bit 'thicker' under cold temps. Second, batteries do loose performance in colder temperatures. So even a heathy battery, will have reduced output the colder it gets.

As you do not have an engine block heater to help in cold weather. Here is a tip that I was told by a former truck driver, now RV'er:

When first trying to start, in just cold - say above 20 degrees or so - go thru two full 'Wait to Start' cycles with the ignition key. (That wait to start, is doing a pre-heat (Glow Plugs is a term you've probably heard before.), this I believe is called 'grid heater' on 8.3 engines.) By going thru the first Wait to Start cycle; Turning the ignition off; Then immediately back on and going thru a 2nd cycle for the 'grid heater' to do it's thing - it's usually enough to get your engine to start when you engage the Starter.

If this does get you going, and you still have Shore Power available, you could try the Battery Boost process (Connecting House to Starter battery.), and again try the double 'wait to start' cycle, and onto the engagement of the starter...

If no luck. I'd connect Shore Power again to help replenish the house batteries and possibly BIRD over to the starter battery. And let things warm up a bit.

If not on house power, I'd personally (And have with my 04 ISL 8.9), start the Generator to get the Charger going... And the wait it out a bit...

I've been lucky the few times in cold weather. Both on Shore Power, and or Boon Docking. When in the mid 20's or below, I use the Engine Pre Heat loop from our HydroHot. Usually at that temperature, I've both the Diesel Burner and Electric Element on in the HydroHot. (If Boon Docking, via Generator running.) I've been able to start our engine down in the single digits, by doing the Wait to Start double cycle - then slowly warm things up before easing out to watch for ice on the roads:)!

I had a friend that used to need to go start a old truck with diesel, and in cold weather (Cleveland area.) - he used to open his hood the night before, and rape an old electric blanket over the top of the engine. Close the hood. He'd go out in the AM, remove the blanket, start his engine - and then go back and get his coffee for the drive to work... 

Best of luck to you...
Smitty
04 Allure 31017

2
General Repair / Re: Webasto overheats and shuts down
Last post by Smitty -
Dan - 1st, concur with the wonderful benefits to the enhanced search function!!!

After that, thanks for closing the loop back on what the problem was... My DW, has taught me over the years... That when problem solving something that had been working fine - to go back and look to see what I may have inadvertently 'messed up'.... (That advice, has saved me many a post for help!!).

Glad all is well, best,
Smitty
04 Allure 31017
3
Chassis/Engine Repair / 1998 Country Coach Intrigue Series Generator issue & location of block heater
Last post by ruby.red.vette -
Good afternoon,

We recently purchased a1998 Country Coach Intrigue Series with a 325HP Diesel Cummings with a Diesel Generator.  The Coach is presently parked and plugged-in to a 30 amp service. We live in the Seattle area and our weather has dropped below freezing. We planned on taking a short trip this weekend and I went down and the main engine was slow to crank. I looked for the block heater to plug it in, but couldn't locate it. I then tried to start the generator and it cranked slowly and then just stopped. I checked the generator unit and tried to start it with the switch on the generator and nothing. no clicks, or anything. Fuses looked good and switched on face of the generator also looked correct. Is there a reset or breaker someplace?

The coach fired up once it warmed a little bit, generator is still dead. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

John 

4
General Repair / Webasto overheats and shuts down
Last post by Dan Siedschlag -
I have been impressed with this new forum's search function.
I have been working to fix a problem with the Webasto system in my 2000 Magna for the past two months and finally arrived at the fix 2 days ago and the system is now working great.  I am writing this to document and possibly help others in future Webasto problem searches.

Problem:
Initially the unit wouldn't light off.  Performed an annual tune up (fuel nozzle, fuel filter and ignition electrodes) and solved that.  The unit then lit off, ran a couple of minutes until it overheated and shut down.  The temperature limiter and overheat fuse had both blown.  Both of these are located under the cover on the top of the burner can.  The temperature limiter has a red reset button which can be reset when the temperature gets below its limit.  (There is another temperature limiter that may be installed that will automatically reset.)  The overheat fuse cannot be reset and requires purchasing another fuse (approx. $50).  With a multimeter you can verify whether anything has blown by testing for continuity individually with each of the 3 sensors under the cover.  If each sensor/fuse has continuity between its wires and all three have passed the continuity test the fuel solenoid will be allowed to open.  No continuity, no fuel.  After buying and replacing the overheat fuse I blew it again on the next start.  With some advice from Sure Marine who sells Webasto parts, I cut the wires for the fuse which again gave me continuity and allowed me to continue troubleshooting.  I will again replace the overheat fuse after fixing the overheat problem.

On each start I was now getting a good start and light off but the unit would overheat and shutdown after a minute or two.  The pump behind the Webasto unit seemed to be working fine and I could feel coolant moving in both the "in" and "out" hoses but the coolant hose coming out of the Webasto wasn't getting hot at all.  I also checked the pump in the electrical bay just forward of the first bay compartment and it also was running fine and coolant felt like it was moving in both hoses.  There is a thread on this forum from 2007 that exactly described these same symptoms.  Like the poster on that thread I decided I had an airlock in the coolant line that wasn't allowing the coolant pump to push coolant through the Webasto to heat the coolant and cool the burner can.  As I worked my way through the steps he had performed, I replaced the coolant air vent and then performed a coolant change (it was time anyway).  The problem didn't change although it took a little longer to overheat and shutdown.

After 2 months of troubleshooting this in my mind as I was going to sleep and waking up in the morning I was down to 2 additional things to check before giving up and paying someone else to figure it out.  I had previously replaced and later repaired the coolant pump in the electrical bay in the first bay after it sprung a gusher and later refused to quit leaking.  I again checked that pump and coolant hoses, discovering the hose out of the pump was connected to the hose running aft and the "in" connection to the pump was connected to the hose running forward.

Solution:
After checking and confirming the direction of coolant flow via the Country Coach system drawings, I switched the hoses at the pump so the hose going aft was connected to the "in" and the hose going forward was connected to the "out" connection.  Not a clue how or when I had connected them incorrectly but what was happening was the two pumps in the Webasto system where pumping against each other and the coolant wasn't moving.  The thread in '07 ended with figuring out that one of the solenoids in the plumbing bay was screwing up which was fixed by cutting the wires and planning to deal with fixing the solenoid issue later.  If I hadn't discovered this pump/hose issue I was headed there as a last option.  This was certainly an easier place to work.

Bottom Line:
In this case I created the problem by connecting the coolant hoses incorrectly to the pump.  It is an easy thing to do especially if the pump is completely removed for replacement or repair.  It's also true that same issue could easily have been caused by a repair shop if they had been working in the system, and It could be an issue with any of the 4 pumps installed on the coach.  Just another thing to check if you are having similar issues.  It was 2 months of frustration but a real learning experience about the Webasto system.

Dan
2000 Magna #5788
8
General Repair / heat blower/vents/returns on the floor blows cold
Last post by Winter Park Chateau -
Hi There: My questions is; when we turn the heat on, the vent on the floor under the sink blows cold air as does the vents under the bed? It blows cold whether I use the gas or electric setting. The bathroom vent in the back blows warm and the vent under the refrigerator blows warm. Any ideas?

Laura
2008 Magna donatello
#6954