Yahoo Message Number: 50085 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/50085)
One wire is ground, ohm it to ground to find out which one, most likely black, but could be white. One will have 12 volts on it when you hit the start switch, this is the pull in coil.
One will have 12 volts when the start switch is pushed and after it starts and you release it, it will still have 12 volts on it this is the run coil.
You can hold the solenoid in the run position to check it.
Mikee
Yahoo Message Number: 50100 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/50100)
Dean,
Both Mike and Mikee have given you some excellent info and tips. If you have a Power Tech Manual with a schematic diagram, the following may be of some help.
When you press the "START" switch 12v current is fed to the starter solenoid and subsequently the fuel solenoid via a relay shown as "S" on the schematic. As long as the "START" switch is held down, this circuit will keep the fuel solenoid "start" coil energized. When you release the "START" switch, or the engine starts and the generator is producing AC output, another relay "IG" opens this circuit path and releases the starter solenoid and the fuel solenoid "start" coil. When the engine builds sufficient oil pressure, another 12v current path is created through the oil pressure switch and a safety shutdown relay "SD", which subsequently feeds current to the fuel solenoid "RUN" coil and thus keeps the engine running.
There are essentially four things that can go wrong here that will cause the engine to stop when the "START" switch is released. (Disregarding bad connections, broken wires, etc.)
1) Bad oil pressure switch, or insufficient oil pressure. (Low oil level or clogged oil filter?)
2) A bad "SD" relay.
3) A shorted water temperature switch. (Which the "SD" relay interprets as an over temperature condition.)
4) Failed fuel solenoid "RUN" coil. (Open or shorted coil winding.)
If you are seeing only 2.6 volts across the "RUN" coil of the fuel solenoid and you have a good ground connection, the first place I would look is the oil pressure switch. (A shorted fuel solenoid "RUN" coil might cause the oil pressure switch to fail also.)
If the oil pressure switch checks out, then I would suspect the fuel solenoid itself.
If the fuel solenoid checks out, I would look at the "SD" safety shutdown relay.
Lastly, I would suspect the water temperature switch. (If it shorted, you would see 0volts on the "RUN" coil while pressing the "START" switch.)
Hope this helps.
Dave
2000 Allure 36'
#30444
Mbaul@... (Mbaul@...) wrote:
Yahoo Message Number: 50112 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/50112)
In your original note you said "When I power the Red (positive) and Black (negative) wires and push the plunger in, it does not stay in."
That tells me the 'hold' coil is not working and you have a bad solenoid - this presupposes you have the solenoid in your hand and are connecting it directly to an external battery and are not depending on any other circuitry.
This statement
" I measured 2.6V on the Black and Red wires when I pressed the start button. This I assumed would be the run coil wires."
If this never gets 12V after holding the start button for 10-15 seconds, there could also be something wrong in the run circuitry as Dave indicates. This assumes the solenoid is installed normally and all other wiring and sensors are connected.
You potentially have two problems.
Mike
'95 Magna 5266
Dave Hills wrote:
Yahoo Message Number: 50159 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/50159)
Check the molex type connector on the side of the control panel on the generator. It is the connector for the remote switch that is inside your coach. I think it is a six pin connector. Check it for any loose contacts and clean the connection with some contact cleaner. I have had this connector cause problems for me on my Power Tech.
Jim Hughes
2000 Allure #30511
*********original post trimmed**********
Yahoo Message Number: 50161 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/50161)
Good point Jim. I recently had a problem where I couldn't turn off the Kubota from inside the coach. Turned out that those same wires about 2 feet from the generator connector at another connector were literally falling apart. Mine had 4 wires and I replaced the connector with a male/female pair that is normally used for tow lights. Some dielectric grease on the pins and then vinyl-taped the whole shebang for more sealing. That puppy is gonna last. These things are 15 years old on my coach and I'm slowly working through every connector I can lay my eyeballs on now.
Mike Cebula
'95 Magna 5266
Jim Hughes wrote:
Yahoo Message Number: 50163 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/50163)
Mike,
You are so right...as these coaches get older the more ghosts you chase. Most of mine have been grounds. If I am in an area for maintenance, I automatically look for any grounds and wire condition.
Jim Hughes
2000 Allure #30511
Yahoo Message Number: 50188 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/50188)
Thanks Jim for the idea. I actually disconnected that thing to see if it would make a difference. It did not. A couple of months ago, I had to replace a broken wire to that plug because my remote would not work. Obviously those wires get a workout with the slide movement.
Dean
95 Magna 5280