Yahoo Message Number: 3563 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/3563)
About a year ago this thread was started. There were several posts about this problem. At that time I mentioned that I had the same problem--I had called ZipDee and was instructed to readjust the preload on the spring to 28 turns. I made that adjustment at that time. A few days ago I was traveling westbound on I8 east of San Diego and had a very significant side wind from the south. I am pleased to say that I had no further problems with the awning billowing under the same conditions with which I had problems a year ago.
Don Krahling
Yahoo Message Number: 3565 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/3565)
That is great. For future reference, do you recall the specific procedure that you used?
Jim Hughes
Jacksonville, FL
2000 Allure #30511
Yahoo Message Number: 3567 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/3567)
Don,
I think you are very lucky. I have had mine rewound at least three times and still when I get into a high wind situation, the slideout awning unfurls. I have to stop and wait for wind speed to drop before I can continue traveling. I think it is shameless that CC and Zip Dee cannot or will not solve this problem.
My next try at a solution on my own is to put a clamp around the rolled up awning to see if that helps, of course I will have to remove that before I activate the slideout room.
Ray
2000 CC Intrigue
year
Yahoo Message Number: 3568 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/3568)
One solution is to buy a retaining hook assembly used in the middle of the patio awning and install it on the slide awning. You just have to remember to release the hook before putting out your slide room.
Yahoo Message Number: 3570 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/3570)
Ray, I have seen a deflector which nis nothing but a piece of aluminum angle iron attached to the fiberglass juat under the awning. Maybe someone can elaborate for you.
Walty Rothermel
2003Allure30811
Yahoo Message Number: 3571 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/3571)
The most common deflector is not aluminum but stainless steel.
These are manufactured by Greg Standley at Standley Manufacturing, Inc. at 91648 River Road in Junction City, OR. I believe his email address is STANMFG1@... (STANMFG1@...). If you visit the factory you can usually find him in the coach parking area in the very late afternoon. He also produces stainless steel exhaust extensions, etc. This is where the factory got the idea for same. Greg sold so many of them to people that were at the factory for service that the factory decided to start producing them themselves. Greg will install the exhaust extensions and surrounds, but will not install the wind deflectors. I think it is because he doesn't want the potential liability of screwing something into the slide wall.
However, I spoke to many people while at the factory that had bought these from Greg and installed them themselves without incident.
Greg's business card doesn't show the area code but the number itself is 689-1603.
Brian Davis
1999 Allure
Coach #30282
Yahoo Message Number: 3572 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/3572)
My solution was to go to the sheet metal shop, get two sections of 12 gauge stainless steel, each 2 feet long and shaped into a right angle "L" with 3" one one side and 5' on the other and installed it under the awning from the center strap towards the front and back of the awning. No problems since, and the solutin cost less than $30 for stainless steel and screws. I had my own drill and bit with which I used to drill the necessary holes. good luck ron '01 Intrigue #11262 san diego
Yahoo Message Number: 3573 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/3573)
Ron,
Is your awning so close to the slideout room that you were forced to drill the holes and put the L shaped steel onto the slideout room? Or, did you have enough room below the awning on the body of the coach?
What size holes did you have to drill and how deep? CC actually offered me two pieces of stainless steel L channel material but it was only about 2 inches on each side. I didn't feel that would solve the problem. I have seen others who have put something similar to what you have. That does make more sense than the 2 inch one which CC offered to put on my coach.
Thanks for the info. I will be testing mine in January as I will be crossing all of Texas as I head out to Tucson. Last time I had terrible winds on that route with the expected results on the awning....looked like a parachute....
Ray
2000 Intrigue 11040
Yahoo Message Number: 3574 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/3574)
"Jim Hughes,
Putting the 28 turns in my slide awning also solved my unfurling problem. I too have been in heavy side winds & no problem. Very simple to do. Unbolt front awning arm. Unwind tension without hitting side of coach--the hardest part. Put 28 turns back in. It solved my problem. Hope it helps you.
Steve................Intrigue #10673
Yahoo Message Number: 3576 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/3576)
I'm sure the deflector is the best solution but I didn't know about it and did it differently. I wound up the spring and put some thick aluminum shims between the arms and the latches. The shims keep the awning from moving away from the slide. It has worked so far but I think I'll add the deflector also. jerry in NM, '00 Magna.
Yahoo Message Number: 3577 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/3577)
I'm sure the deflector is the best solution but I didn't know about it and did it differently. I wound up the spring and put some thick aluminum shims between the arms and the latches. The shims keep the awning from moving away from the slide. It has worked so far but I think I'll add the deflector also. jerry in NM, '00 Magna.
Yahoo Message Number: 3583 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/3583)
I drilled holes with the steel drill into the side of the slideout, and probably into the steel framing of the slideout, about 1and1/2" below the top of the slideout. Three holes for each 2' long piece of stainless steel. I used #12 x 1and1 1/2 in length. Hole size was whatever the drill box size is for # 12 screws initially, but believe had to go one or two sizes bigger for the screws to finally accept the hole in the steel frame behind the fibreglass. Hope this helps.
Ron and Molly '01 Intrigue #11262 san diego