Yahoo Message Number: 19306 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/19306)
I've recently discovered an electrical problem that I'm not sure how to handle. The light control switch for the bathroom fixtures ( 3 vanity lights and two overhead dual tube florescents) has wire insulation that has blackened from overheating. The actual wire end connection plastic insulation has also blackened and melted. This condition is only on the red "hot" wire. Can anyone help me understand what causes this to happen? Are there too many fixtures controlled by this switch? Is the gauge of the wire insufficient? Seems unlikely that CC would make that type of mistake. Can a split in the wire's plastic insulation cause this to happen? Has anyone else with an Inspire had this same problem? I notice that the light switch seemed much warmer than it should be after being on for a bit, some time ago, but didn't really understand the significance of that discovery. Thanks for any information related to this problem.
Tony Ferrara
'04 Inspire 51172
Yahoo Message Number: 19307 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/19307)
Tony: I don't have an Inspire, but unless CC has changed things recently, all of your light fixtures should be low voltage (12v) that are wired through a 15a or 20a fuse box for the "house" system.
Unlike household wiring of 110v, there isn't much of a risk of fire from overheating. Normally the fuse will pop if overloaded.
Larry
Intrigue
10762
Yahoo Message Number: 19308 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/19308)
How many car fires have you seen in your lifetime ??? Not much 110v there ...
I would certainly think this should be investated, and right soon.
The blackened wiring would have me nervous as hell, fuses or no fuses. Maybe they fused the common (negative) side (mistake) and there is short somewhere.
I guess I would be calling CC right away, and not using this circuit untill I got a DC amp meter on it, and inspected the switch itself.
Might be a bad connection, causing an abnormally high voltage drop across the junction, and high heat buildup.
This is scary, and you should a little puckered ... I would be.
John and Terry
2005 Affinity
recently, all of your light fixtures should be low voltage (12v) that are wired through a 15a or 20a fuse box for the "house" system.
from overheating. Normally the fuse will pop if overloaded.
Yahoo Message Number: 19309 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/19309)
Does anyone know the "exact" height of the 05 or 06 Magnas?
I'm traveling to a tight area and need to know. Can't find it actually printed anywhere in the literature, and taking a measurement from the roof to the ground might not be as accurate as I'd like.
Thanks.
Tom
05 Magna 45'
Yahoo Message Number: 19310 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/19310)
ON OUR COACH IT IS ONTHE DASH LEFT SIDE
Charlie & Lorraine Zecman
2002 Magna # 6162
Florida
Yahoo Message Number: 19311 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/19311)
OURS IS LISTED ON THE DASH
Charlie & Lorraine Zecman
2002 Magna # 6162
Florida
Yahoo Message Number: 19312 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/19312)
I'm with John.
You have a short circuit. Something is making contact with ground.
My Inspire has its share of "crimped wire" type problems that I attribute to someone having a bad day on the assembly line. My entry step, over-door awning, battery boost solenoid, something in the galley slide - - all had pinched or bare wire problems. In my case, this caused malfunction and/or blown fuses or popped circuit breakers. Your blackened wire is a RED LIGHT malfunction.
On my '73 TR-6, I had a wire on the license plate light make contact with the screw that holds the plate on. The fuse did not blow and I melted the entire wiring harness to the rear of the car. The car was smoking when I pulled into the garage. I had to disconnect the battery! The lights had only been on for about 3 minutes.
Like John says, don't use that circuit until you have it checked out!
Jay
05 Inspire DaVinci 51457
Yahoo Message Number: 19320 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/19320)
There is another possibility. A bad connection between the wire and the switch. This would cause the wire to heat up without the fuse blowing. I can be cause by bad installation or by working loose due to vibration. You should be able to see discoloration of the wire going into the switch. If this turns out to be the case, you will need to replace the switch and clean the wire to bright metal.
I hope this helps.
Everett
99 Intrigue10758
Yahoo Message Number: 19329 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/19329)
I think it 12 feet 6 inches.
John Drebick
06 Affinity
Yahoo Message Number: 19331 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/19331)
I would definitely check the "Load Sharing" on the inverter/charger. We had a similar problem in a campground in Montana. During the day I would set the load share for the charger to 5 amps and I night I would set it at 15 amps. This gave us enough power to run the normal stuff during the day and the 15amps at night would top off the batteries.
Bob
'05 Intrigue Ovation #11872
Yahoo Message Number: 19337 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/19337)
It sound like that the switch is not handling the current that is down stream from it. Either the loads are drawing more current than normal or the switch has failed. Switches do fail occasionally.
You need to get it taken care of promptly. Otherwise, your wiring could be permanently damaged.
Jim Hughes
2000 Allure #30511
how to handle. The light control switch for the bathroom fixtures ( 3 vanity lights and two overhead dual tube florescents) has wire insulation that has blackened from overheating. The actual wire end connection plastic insulation has also blackened and melted. This condition is only on the red "hot" wire. Can anyone help me understand what causes this to happen? Are there too many fixtures controlled by this switch? Is the gauge of the wire insufficient? Seems unlikely that CC would make that type of mistake. Can a split in the wire's plastic insulation cause this to happen? Has anyone else with an Inspire had this same problem? I notice that the light switch seemed much warmer than it should be after being on for a bit, some time ago, but didn't really understand the significance of that discovery. Thanks for any information related to this problem.
Yahoo Message Number: 19348 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/19348)
Most likley (usually wrong) is the contacts are bad in the switch causing heating which travels down the wire like a heat sink and darkens the insulation and oxidizes the copper. Unless your coach has more lights on that switch than the factory originally installed there isn't too much load. Usually!!!!!!!!!
ddtuttle
2000 Allure 30443
Yahoo Message Number: 19437 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/19437)
On my Inspire, its written right on the drivers console (with the transmission pad and switches). Good idea to double check any value you get manually, with the air bags inflated, since unless you got the unit directly from the factory, a previous owner or dealer could have 'enhanced' it. On mine, it is supposed to be a particular height (12'6" or 12'9"), but the CB antenna boosts the height an extra foot.
John 2004 Inspire