Yahoo Message Number: 76777 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/76777)
I have 2005 Inspire that has stated leaking on the bedroom slide rear. It does not leak when the slide is retracted. I have removed the awning and sealed the seam along the three sides of the slide. Still have a leak. The side rubber seam to be fitting tight. Any ideas? Hoping it is not the window. What a pain that would be.
Tom Coomes
2005 Inspire 51177
Yahoo Message Number: 76778 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/76778)
I had similar problem LR slide. Chased that leak for two years with several attempts with sealant. Finally installed Eternabond tape on all three sides and problem solved. I did the BR slide for good measure.
Larry, 03 Allure, 30856
Yahoo Message Number: 76781 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/76781)
Tom,
I had a leak in the bedroom slide several years ago. The problem was the angle metal strips on the bottom edge of the slide was loose. Water would run down the side of the slide and seep in between the angle iron strips and with slide wall inside the coach. I had Buddy Gregg in Dallas fix all three slide as some of the other pieces were loose. I would pull slide in if it rained as water would fill a bowl of water near the floor if slide were left out.
Jock Vargo
2005 Inspire
51428
Yahoo Message Number: 76788 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/76788)
Tom
If the windows have never been resealed (caulked around the trim work) I would think it is time. OMC resealed all of our windows last winter and we have a one year newer coach. It solved a leaking slide issue we had been chasing for some time. The tech said that it is a routine maintenance item that should be checked. It wasn't an expensive job.
Dan 2006 Allure 31348
Yahoo Message Number: 76790 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/76790)
Tom - In our case we had water leaks in all 4 slides which was traced to poorly sealed joints (in all cases). It started with the awning toppers. On our bus CC created a complex funky aluminum batten system that raised the topper in the middle. This mid peak was intended to drain water off the topper but instead it the fabric sagged and puddled in between the underlying supports. The mid high point also conducted water toward the bus over half the area of the awning topper. As for the Carefree of Colorado toppers they can't be sealed completely with any after market product, that to include 303 Products' fabric guard @ $25/qt. Thus water bled through the fabric and puddled on top of the slide. In a bad rain some 5 gallons of water can accumulate. Our slides are pitched down and back making the low point the outside back corner on each slide. Water sits in there and the excess drains down the outside back edge. Wind will change the distribution of how the water flows. It's important to observe where the water is collecting and by what paths it drains when collection volumes are exceeded.
On the outside edge of the slide there is a SS structural angle piece. The OEM sealant doesn't stick to this particularly well so deep water can run up and over the sealant and get into this angle run. From there is can run along anywhere and enter the interior. It's tough to identify a specific spot. I used a small dental mirror to look behind the mouldings for water stains. And stains I found. I removed all awning toppers and resealed the poorly bonded areas. It was quite an under taking.
As for the painted vertical and horizontal seams they are all suspect. You'll see evidence of water by looking for bleeding rust coming from under the screw heads (vertical runs). On the horizontal seams you can push on the moulding and sometimes see water oozing out. I drilled small weep holes on the bottom faces (under the slide) to allow water to drain out. I took several gallons out of the driver side bedroom slide. Forces and stress coming from running the slides in and out break the sealant beads. The seams that face upward act as catch basins for water. Keep in mind that every joint is a potential leak and it's likely each slide will have multiple compromised seals. Near as I can tell the window frames seem OK but I'll be checking them this spring.
It's my theory that the present design can't be sealed properly in a relatively maintenance free fashion. For example, like a car's windshield that very rarely leaks. In an attempt to remedy the situation I was able to partially remove one of the painted horizontal angles (front driver side slide's front face at bottom). The bead of OEM sealant I observed was inconsistent which I gather traces back to sloppy work at the factory. Perhaps a Friday afternoon job. Here's the result of that leaking upward facing horizontal seam ---> http://muniac.smugmug.com/Maintenance/Bus-Repairs/IMG3487/1101064815_MTsWL-M.jpg (http://muniac.smugmug.com/Maintenance/Bus-Repairs/IMG3487/1101064815_MTsWL-M.jpg) It wasn't a fun repair.
Using masking tape and care I re-caulked the upward facing joints. Here's a photo: http://muniac.smugmug.com/Maintenance/Bus-Works/IMG1111/1097976131_7F9gA-M.jpg (http://muniac.smugmug.com/Maintenance/Bus-Works/IMG1111/1097976131_7F9gA-M.jpg) Although this looks tight they all leaked. There isn't enough surface area on the angle's cross section to hold a good seal. Additionally, this type of workmanship doesn't help keep the water out ---> http://muniac.smugmug.com/Maintenance/Bus-Works/IMG1113/1097976589_kTLuW-M.jpg (http://muniac.smugmug.com/Maintenance/Bus-Works/IMG1113/1097976589_kTLuW-M.jpg) After shorting out several lighting control panels and damaging the veneer on the beauty moldings in several spots I'd pretty much had it with the resealing scenario. I thus used 3M electrician's tape. It's a vinyl tape that comes in colors and holds up very well outdoors. I neatly taped all the joints making sure to get a water tight fit. This has worked very well.
As for the awning toppers I purchased a small one (back slide) from Care Free of Colorado for $175. It wasn't even sealed with fabric guard properly. This, in my opinion, is an outrage!! I've since replaced all the awning toppers with Sea Mark material which is an acrylic fabric impregnated with vinyl on one side. It is absolutely water tight and also $60 per square yard. I increased the width of the topper an inch on each side which has helped draining water clear the slide. Water and snow can still blow in under the fabric, however. When that happens you need to deal with it using a ladder and elbow grease. So far we've been running tight and have remained dry through some pretty bad storms and weather.
Finally, leaks are very tough to spot especially in the black slide top sealant (three beads on each slide). I might add they are actually impossible to spot. You need to remove old caulk, inspect joints and reseal appropriately to make sure things are tight. I think a petroleum compound that bonds to metal flashing works well. Tape works really well for sealing painted joints. If you use the right color and apply it neatly the job looks good. It's much better than sustaining unsightly water damage. Weep holes ( http://muniac.smugmug.com/Maintenance/Bus-Works/IMG1126/1097979773_gz6Da-M.jpg (http://muniac.smugmug.com/Maintenance/Bus-Works/IMG1126/1097979773_gz6Da-M.jpg) ) help drain water should it enter and/or alert you of a leak. Newer bus designs seem to imply that some genius has figured out that a slight pitch downward (like a roof) on the awning topper drains water away from the bus and thus avoids complex mechanisms and water damage. This would have been an option on our bus had the awning topper receiving slots been mounted 1-2 inches higher. A very simple and effective solution to conducting water away from the bus. A bit more effort and care here would have avoided tons of aggravation and expense. The operative word being "care". Anyway I hope this helps dry out this most soggy problem. Good luck to those dealing with this situation.
At 10:21 AM 1/11/2012, you wrote:
Yahoo Message Number: 76797 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/76797)
Tom
We removed the "complex funky aluminum batten system" which provides no benefit other than to trap water on the slide topper. Result, accumulating water runs off the end.
Dan 2006 Allure 31348
Yahoo Message Number: 76800 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/76800)
Larry,
Did you use Eternabond on the top joint between the slide-out outer skin and the slide-out top skin? Did you remove all of the old sealant beads and then sand the surfaces? Did you also use it on the small corner molding strips? What width Eternabond tape did you use? I have been re-sealing that joint with 3M or Sikaflex urethane sealant/adhesives but it seems to hold for only a couple of years then it fissures due to stretching action of slide skin when retracted......At least that is my assessment.
Will the Eternabond hold together under this stress? How long has it held up for you? Daron Hairabedian, 98 Allure 30226
Yahoo Message Number: 76808 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/76808)
Daron
Yes I used Eternabond on the top joint, but didn't overlap it onto the outer skin.
No I didn't remove the old sealant
Yes, I used it on the corners
I cut pieces of a 4" width roll in half
Time will tell, but I've used the eternabond fix for only ~5 months.
I hope you can get it fixed.
Larry, 03 Allure, 30856
Yahoo Message Number: 76816 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/76816)
Larry,
Thanks for your response and the well wishes.
I have not yet tested my latest Sikaflex re-seal job. But, now I know what I am going to use if.....when I experience another leak.
I have heard good things about Eternabond from others, as well, but I never tried to use it. It is quite expensive but, sounds like it is worth the price; especially when we consider the labor and nuisance of unraveling the slide out cover to fold it back for access to the top seam.
BTW, I researched Eternabond and found that it is available in two inch width. Price for 2"x 50' roll is $31.95 + shpg & hdlg from www.bestmaterials.com (http://www.bestmaterials.com). They are located in Phoenix, AZ. (I have no personal experience with this supplier.) I estimated that one 2"x 50 ' roll should do the job for my 14' slide out top & side joints. The manufacturer states that it "fuses" to a very long list of surface materials.
Daron
Yahoo Message Number: 76819 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/76819)
Daron
Slight correction in my last post; I used two inch tape and cut to 1 inch strips. Two inch strips might be better anyway?
Also, you don't have to "unravel" the awning cover. ON my Zip Dees, I carefully removed the forward endcap and unwound the spring, noting how many turns for reinstallation. The spring is internal and unwinds inside the tube, leaving the awning rolled up. Then I removedthe rear endcap and then positioned the awning on top of the coach.
One thing I've just noticed as that some of the adhesive from the tape is finding its way on the slide out edges/seals.
Larry, 03 Allure, 30856
Yahoo Message Number: 76822 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/76822)
Larry,
I should have said "unwind" rather than "unravel'. I do it like you, except that I left the arms attached to the end cap to provide leverage for unwinding and rewinding. I had a little help for this procedure. It went faster and safer that way.
My Zip Dee extends down over the windows. It took 23 full turns for the proper tension.
BTW, I was advised by an ex-CC tech to clean the f/glass slide roof and side panels but not to apply wax to these surfaces. He said that a certain amount of friction helps with the reversing and wiping effect of the rubber seals like the action of windshield wipers.
Can anyone corroborate or refute this advice? This is not a big deal but, I remain unsure.
Daron
Yahoo Message Number: 76829 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/76829)
Hello,
And yes and I stand by it.
Regards,
Dave
From:
daronha@... ;
To:
;
Subject:
Re: [Country-Coach-Owners] Re: bedroom slide leak Sent:
Sat, Jan 14, 2012 6:30:31 PM
Larry,
I should have said "unwind" rather than "unravel'. I do it like you, except that I left the arms attached to the end cap to provide leverage for unwinding and rewinding. I had a little help for this procedure. It went faster and safer that way.
My Zip Dee extends down over the windows. It took 23 full turns for the proper tension.
BTW, I was advised by an ex-CC tech to clean the f/glass slide roof and side panels but not to apply wax to these surfaces. He said that a certain amount of friction helps with the reversing and wiping effect of the rubber seals like the action of windshield wipers.
Can anyone corroborate or refute this advice? This is not a big deal but, I remain unsure.
Daron
Yahoo Message Number: 76919 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/76919)
I would like to communicate with whoever (Scott) posted the links to the "SmugMug", Muniac, "Winter Prep Interior. We also spend Jan, Feb, & March in North Ogden, in our coach, for skiing, and have encountered many of the winter conditions described in the photo albums. I am very interested in finding out how you were able to tap in to the air conditioner circuits and add outlets in the wall using those 20A circuits. You must be a electrical engineer, or materials engineer ie, the "conversion coating" under the rubber step mat.
Thanks,
Brad Ward
206-920-9100
In Ogden, hoping for some snow at the ski areas.
Yahoo Message Number: 76943 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/76943)
Brad - Feel free to contact me off of yahoo if you wish. I'd be interested in your winter Oregon skiing experience as well. We're all in the age of information so I figured documenting a few things might help the cause a bit. Thanks.
At 05:28 PM 1/18/2012, you wrote: