Yahoo Message Number: 63946 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/63946)
My Norcold N1095 2 door refrigerator in my 34' 2005 Allure is slowly failing. The lowest temperature I can now achieve on level 9 (coldest) is 42 degrees with the coach interior and exterior at about 95 degrees overnight, 105 +/- by the afternoons. It is in my garage so there is no direct sun influence to contend with.
Some observations:
- There are no codes and everything appears to be working normally.
- The ice maker produces ice although slowly.
- I unplugged the thermister and waited overnight, but it did not get any colder.
- The boiler is 112 degrees on the surface.
- This morning the coils were 110 at the bottom and decreased to 95 at the top.
- The ambient temperature in the garage was 95 this morning.
- The unit is 6 years old and has run continuously at least this last year.
What is the logical solution, a cooling unit repair, replacement?
Stuart Thornton, `05 Allure #31217
Yahoo Message Number: 63949 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/63949)
Replace the unit with a residential frig.
Mikee
Yahoo Message Number: 63950 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/63950)
Might try this:
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/solar-powered-rv-fridge-vent-system/47888 (http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/solar-powered-rv-fridge-vent-system/47888)
or such to blow air over the coils. Can make a big difference in 95 degree heat. Assume the vents are open with no restrictions on the roof. With the coils at 95 at top and air temp of 95, seems that is the best they can do is to reach air temperature. Are the temps the same for both gas and electrical? To test, take any fan and blow air over the coils and see what happens.
Do you have the temp senor on the inside fins moved all the way to the top?
Leonard Kerns
97' Magna 5418
Yahoo Message Number: 63967 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/63967)
I have a factory installed fan in the vent chamber Leonard, which is running 24/7 in this warm weather. I checked in the passageway to the roof vent and it is wide open and unobstructed.
I have run it at least 24 hours on both gas and AC but the high temperatures are the same.
In the past, a setting of 5 would have maintained about 38 in 100+ weather, but now at 95 ambient, it will not cool below 45 or so.
Note in my original post that the thermister is disconnected, which would cause the cooling unit to run continuously and drive the refer below freezing. It was positioned at the top of the second to last fin on the right but right now that of no consequence. It is not the thermister or it's position.
The cooling fins are moist with no frost at all.
One new thing I just noted, the top coil is 95 degrees and the coil temperature progressively increases to 122 degrees at the bottom coil. That's backwards, the top coil should be the hottest, not the bottom as the coolant looses heat on it's way down. And it should be way more than the low 100's I believe.
I do not smell any ammonia and there are no wet spots indicating leakage that I can see.
Yahoo Message Number: 63969 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/63969)
That would be my preference since I have a 3K inverter, but I have an extended warranty and I'm guessing they would balk about that. Even if they agreed, I'm not sure I could find one that fits perfectly as a built in and doesn't look DYI. Using a bunch of molding to cover up misfitment (that's a new word I just made up) would not appeal to me.
If anyone has ever found a well fiting residential to replace a 1095 Norcold, however, I would sure be interested.
Yahoo Message Number: 63973 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/63973)
Mikee may have the right ideal for you. If you are not into dry camping and running it all the time, may want to put in a 110 unit. Otherwise sounds like you need to replace the cooling system. That is cheaper then a complete unit. My brother had to do the same resent. Ran his all the time and it was not quite level. Finally died on him.
Leonard
97' Magna 5418
Yahoo Message Number: 63976 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/63976)
About 50 degrees temperature differential is what I have always experienced with an RV frig. A fan in the rear (top or bottom) should help as will a fan inside of the box to circulate the air.
Good Luck!
Glen w/SOB in Sunny AZ
Yahoo Message Number: 63994 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/63994)
Mikee, you got me to thinking about a residential replacement and I have found a GE 12 cuft apartment refer avail with an ice maker that will slide right in with a perfect fit. Only minor trim work will be needed. Almost a third increase in capacity, very desirable.
My only hesitation now is can I count on a residential unit to work properly when the temps are high. My garage will hit 110 in the heat of the summer here in the Phoenix area. And there will be those times we are parked with the sun baking the side of the coach. Can a conventional unit run continuously in the presence of heat without seriously compromising it's life expectancy. Heat is usually a bad environment for things that have mechanical components (ie. compressor).
Consensus?
Stuart Thornton, `05 Allure #31217
Yahoo Message Number: 63995 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/63995)
The residential refer will out perform the unit you have now.
Mikee
Yahoo Message Number: 64008 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/64008)
Our Dometic is also failing. We checked into new coils. $500 plus installation which takes about 3 hours and 2 people. New fridge abt $1600 at CW plus tax and installation of abt $215. We're considering a new one since ours is now 7.5 yrs old. We also considered a residential fridge but found 3 challenges: 1. might need a larger and differnt type of inverter? something to do with sine waves. 2. Will need another battery if you dry camp at all. 3. It vents differently. We are so displeased with both Norcold and Dometic that we don't want to purchase another gas absorption refrigerator if we can help it. If you find the GE works please let us know the requirements and post photos. Thanks.
Lonny & Diane
2004 Allure 33'
#31065
Yahoo Message Number: 64042 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/64042)
Diane, I don't know what model Dometic you have and whether it is a 2 door or 4 door. You need to check your manual or go online and find the rough opening measurements for what you have. Then you can research similar residential model sizes.
For me, two GE models would work to replace my 2 door Norcold. The 10 cuft and 12 cuft. The widths and the heights are spot on, the depth varies by 3". The 12 cuft would be a tighter fit in the back than the 10, but the 12 has an icemaker option, the 10 doesn't. Remember in deciding the model you need to account for how much of the box itself, sans the door, will protrude from the inside wall into the living space. 1/2", 1", ??.
A major consideration in this decision is newer residential refrigerators have eliminated the exposed coils at the back. They are now fins underneath. Air is drawn in beneath the door, across the cooling fins, and is then thermally drafted up the back and sides, normally back into the room. In home clearances are typically 1" on the sides, 3" on the back, and 4" at the top with open access back into the room. Right now, without some modifications, it appears that room air will be the cooling source which will then be expelled up and out the roof vent. The exterior wall inspection grill, normally the intake for an absorption unit, may need to be sealed off from air flow to accommodate the refer design. Or I need to provide some way for outside air to be forced under the unit and seal off the front intake area under the door to prevent conditioned air from getting sacrificed to the outside. All things to consider as I learn more and more about doing this.
Sinewave vs. modified sine wave inverters? Haven't gotten there yet, but on my boats I have always had 110v refers and U-line icemakers and they always worked fine.
I will follow all this up with a conclusion post.