Yahoo Message Number: 67143 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/67143)
Hi everyone,
Just to let you all know, Melitta and I are heading to Outdoor Resorts Palm Spring in Cathedral City (near Palm Springs) for two months (1/5 to 3/5/2011. Look us up at site 1117.
Will continue to moderate the forum from there and also through my Motorola DROID X.
Herb
Forum Moderator
916 - 759 - 8000
Yahoo Message Number: 67159 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/67159)
This is probably a dumb question but if one when setting up the inverter you select the "auto start" mode for the generator is it necessary that the inverter/charger be "ON" in order for that function to work. In other words, if I set the auto start feature to start the generator when the voltage drops to 12.2 VDC and for it to stop the generator when the float cycle is reached do I need to leave the inverter "ON" or can it be turned "OFF" ("waiting for AC"). Unless I have something requiring 120VAC that I want to keep running like the microwave clock. I normally turn the inverter OFF at night or, let's say, when parked outside for a few days but inactive. Will the generator auto off/on function which is controlled by the inverter remote control panel work even if the inverter is OFF?
Another question relative to echo chargers has to do with difficulty in determining if it's really working since the green light means only that it's getting input voltage. When one first plugs into shore power the charger is active whether or not the inverter is "ON". I normally plug in and hang around until my inverter remote control panel indicates the coach is getting AC and that the charger is in its first stage (absorption?). Then I may come by a week or so later and find the coach (start) battery is down maybe below 12.2 VDC while the domestic/house batteries are floating at 13.7VDC so I assume the EC isn't working even though the green light is steady. It has occurred to me that it might be better to check the relative voltages on the domestic and start batteries while the inverter/charger is in the saturation or absorption mode with the output around 14.4 VDC. The measurement at the start battery terminals should follow that in the domestic batteries and presumably be around 13.4VDC, about 1 VDC less than the domestic reading. It's pretty unlikely that the coach/start battery would be above 13 VDC even if recently driven.
Jim M
'02 Intrigue @11410 ISL 400
Yahoo Message Number: 67179 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/67179)
Jim, your inverter does not need to be on for any function other than inverting.
The three stages of the charge cycle and their functions are:
1, Bulk charge which is constant current increasing voltage
2. Absorption charge which constant voltage decreasing current
3. Float charge which is constant voltage and current
I think you complicating a pretty simple troubleshooting problem with regard to your EC.
With the charger at float disconnect the EC output line from the chassis battery. If the green light is still solid you know it is wired correctly on the input side. You may also want to probe the input side of the EC and compare it to the house battery to confirm that is the source current.
Probe the output side of the EC. If it is not around 13VDC or more you have a bad EC. If it is at or above 13VDC, and you're sure that the output line actually goes to the chassis battery when hooked up, your chassis battery is bad. Have it load tested and replaced.
Good luck
George in Birmingham
'04 Allure 31038
Yahoo Message Number: 67190 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/67190)
Thanks. I basically came to the same conclusion that the remote control is a separately functioning device independent of whether the inverter is ON or not even before posting the inquiry. The documentation for neither the inverter or the remote control points this out. Just kind of thought it might be helpful to raise the issue.
With regard to probing the output side of the EC. It's my impression from the documentation that it's necessary for the EC output to be connected to a battery in order to sense its voltage and function so presumably if it's not connected to anything other than the voltmeter probe it's "output" wouldn't read anything meaningful. Of course, it's easy enough to try it and see what you get AFTER going through the trouble of opening up the inverter compartment, unbundling the wires and pulling the applicable quick disconnect for the desired lead. A bit of inconvenience at least in my coach and age if the chassis battery doesn't seem to be charging reliably during storage based on relative readings directly from the batteries..
Actually, I no longer have a problem. My alternator was going bad and the batteries too although just going on 4 years old. With new batteries my EC is holding at 12.97VDC on the chassis battery while the house bank floats at 13.7.
Jim M
'02 intrigue #11410 ISL 400