Yahoo Message Number: 5680 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/5680)
I am experiencing a lifting of the clearcoat on the roof of my '98 Magna. I plan on removing as much of it as i can, feathering the edges and then using a fiberglass restorer to buff it out. My last step is where I am looking for some input - should i use a good quality carnauba wax or 303 Protectant as my finish coat? I think the 303 would give me more UV protection but I want to use a product that won't require me to get back up on the roof to re-apply it every month or so.
Yahoo Message Number: 5681 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/5681)
Hi Magna Owner,
Here is what I just completed this morning.
Two day ago, the roof was scrubbed with a nylon brush using soft scrub and lemon juice then well rinsed.
Yesterday, the entire roof was rubbed with steel wool, removing any blemishes and peeling clear coat.
Today a thin coat of clear Krylon (1301) was applied via a spray can.
Since one of my hobbies is building fiberglass airplanes, here is some data. Fiberglass deteriorates from UV explosure. The surface must be protected by a coating that contains titanium dioxide which is the only opaque pigment that blocks the UV. Therefore, it is important that if any fiberglass is exposed, it should be covered with the proper opaque coating. After that, any clear coating of choice can be applied.
I used Krylon to stop the clear coat at the top sides of the roof from peeling, stop the top coating from continuously chalking and to provide a more permanent seal. I tested a small area using clear laquer - it yellowed so it was removed.
Fred Kovol
2000 Allure 30593
Yahoo Message Number: 5683 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/5683)
Short of what Fred did, I think anything you use is is only going to last 4-6 weeks at best if the coach is in the direct sun. I find Fred's solution interesting and have kept it for future reference. I am curious to see how long it lasts. The sun is brutal. Especiall here in Florida.
Jim Hughes
2000 Allure #30511
Yahoo Message Number: 5684 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/5684)
What "proper opaque covering" did you use, Fred? I followed the below procedure up to the point where "any clear coating of choice can be applied"... Is that Krylon 1301?
The deteriation on my roof seems to be restricted to 3-4" in from the bullnosed areas where sides meet roof. Is that what you've experienced?
Dick Stearns
Allure 2000 #30519
Yahoo Message Number: 5686 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/5686)
I'm saving it, too.... Now if I can just find someone to get up there and do the work!
Dick May
2002 Intrigue, #11438
"The problem with doing nothing is not knowing when you are finished."
Yahoo Message Number: 5689 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/5689)
Hi Richard.
Opaque coating means an industrial, aircraft or marine paint approved for outdoor use (contains titanium dioxide sufficient to block 100% UV as long as sufficent coating thickness is present).
Coating touchup is only required if the fiberglass is showing through. Suggest asking CCI what paint they use for the roof.
As for the clear coat of choice - wax application stops chaulking for a while; UV protection coatings such as 303 provide some temporary added protection but the cost-benefit does not pencil out.
My peeling started on the top edge of the roof and peeled off on the curved portion. I used steel wool to buff it off.
I used Clear Krylon (ACE Hardware pn 1301) for the 3 reasons stated in message 5681.
Fred Kovol
2000 Allure 30593
Yahoo Message Number: 5733 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/5733)
Fred,
Sounds like an excellent alternative to waxing etc.however my concern results from my querying the Krylon customer tech site with a question about how ell would the 1301 hold up on a motorhome roof - their answer was that none of their clear finishes will hold up in that application. I hope they are wrong and your approach works out since it's an awful lot cheaper than repainting the roof with a matching color and then clearcoating it.
Frank Urban
out.
the
stated
Yahoo Message Number: 5734 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/5734)
Hi Frank,
Krylon appears to be an acrylic coating and should last - again nothing is permanent. As this wears in some fashion and I become dissatisfied, then it will be time to consider an industrial coating which lasts with flexing and sunlight ($235 per gal - acrylic $135, reducer $30 and hardener $60). Why didn't CCI do a better job? Fred Kovol
Yahoo Message Number: 5735 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/5735)
Hi Fred,
What industrial coating did you have in mind?
Dave
2000 Allure 36'
#30444
fredkovol wrote:
Yahoo Message Number: 5737 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/5737)
Hi Fred,
I should have asked this question when I expressed some concern about the longevity of the Krylon - why did you use the combination of lemon juice and soft scrub? Does this combination do a better job on removing the chalkiness? I was thinking of using Meguiars Heavy Duty Oxidation Remover before either a good boat wax or your Krylon suggestion.
If you will be at the Class Reunion next month, perhaps we can get together and grumble to management about the lifting clearcoat - at this point, my coach looks so bad that I hate to drive it from PA to OR but I plan on it.
Frank Urban
Yahoo Message Number: 5739 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/5739)
Hi Frank,
Diluting Soft Scrub with lemon juice provides a blemish removal with light scrubbing. And it's easy to rinse off - I do not let it run down the sides, have plenty of clean cloths and 2 buckets of soft water.
Citric acid provides just the right strength and drys quickly. I don't want to take off much of the surface - light steel wool buffing after the wash and the surface is ready for coating.
I always turn to home remedies first. My other combination is Tide and Clorex - but I don't like it as if it gets in to fiberglass cracks, it goes everywhere, so does TSP which is hard to get off. I do not like any chemical - oxyelic, hydrocloric or sulfuric acid or strong or weak bases like lye or Clorex around paint surfaces. My wif might disagree with me.
I learned the lemon juice approach from my Dad who was a paint chemist.
My coach is starting to develop hair line cracks (separation) - mostly several parallel half ovals and one star burst. Eventually, some will have to be routed out, filled with epoxy and glass cloth, sanded and coated.
I waited 2 days, wiped off the dew, let dry for one hour and applied a second coat of Krylon at right angles to the first.
Fred Kovol
Yahoo Message Number: 5747 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/5747)
Jim,
We were starting to experience chaulking on our 2001 Magna, read the manual and talked with Tim Reid at Lazy Days and followed his instructions back in Jan. 2003.
We washed the roof and then used a buffer on the roof with rubbing compound, cleaning off all the chaulking and then applied a good UV wax. Then in March we washed the roof again and applied 303 which has held up very well. Just last week we washed the roof again and do not have any chaulking. We intend to recoat in about a month with 303.
Bill G. 2001 Magna #5998