Yahoo Message Number: 80271 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/80271)
I've dumped a few times in the past 6 years!!! Every few dumps I flush the black tank. Today I realized I always flush using a pressure regulator. Maybe I'm a bit slow!!!!
Question - Should you flush with or without the pressure regulator on the hose? Can the system handle 'full' pressure?
Thanks.
Bruce
2001 Intrigue #11278
Yahoo Message Number: 80275 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/80275)
Bruce - Owing to the PEX tubing, fittings, connectors, hoses, etc. bus plumbing is rated for 45 PSI nominal. That's a conservative number and a good idea IMHO. I always use regulated water pressure (45 PSI nominal) when hooking any water to the bus. That to include the Santi-Flush system. Some campground stand pipes run at 125 PSI (Lake Stephens, WV for one) so you can potentially do a lot of damage and make a mess in the process.
I wouldn't call your flushing hook-up slow, I'd call it cautious.
Another thing we purchased is what I call the tank flush douche rod. A cheap Camping World item that puts 3 feet of soft flexible hose onto a female garden hose connection that includes a small plastic ball valve. The spray comes out as a sphere making it have an omidirectional washing pattern. After a good dump and flush, this rod gets put down the toilet's business hole and worked up/down into various positions. I've found this to break loose sludge that other methods fail to do. Our level gauge was not working at the high end owing to sludge. Used my friend "rod" and a couple of supercharges of Rid-X and now we're running pretty clean. The level gauge is now working properly too. We do normal flushes and use a little Rid-X about once per week and all seems fine. I'm certainly not number 1 in a number 2 business so the above is just my scene. Your mileage may vary. Hope it helps.
At 01:30 PM 6/18/2012, you wrote:
Yahoo Message Number: 80276 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/80276)
About every 4th time I dump my black tank, I use the flush system and let it run for 20 minutes or so - seems to clean the sensors....... should I be using Rid X? And if so, how does this get used in the black tank? I then put Tide granules, Calgon softener and a bleach packet in the black tank right before I get on the road- dumping it when I arrive at a campground...... is there more I should be doing? thanks so much everyone
jan
06 inspire 51898 DaVinci
From: Scott
To: Country-Coach-Owners@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, June 18, 2012 3:58 PM Subject: Re: [Country-Coach-Owners] Blsck tank flush?
Bruce - Owing to the PEX tubing, fittings, connectors, hoses, etc. bus plumbing is rated for 45 PSI nominal. That's a conservative number and a good idea IMHO. I always use regulated water pressure (45 PSI nominal) when hooking any water to the bus. That to include the Santi-Flush system. Some campground stand pipes run at 125 PSI (Lake Stephens, WV for one) so you can potentially do a lot of damage and make a mess in the process.
I wouldn't call your flushing hook-up slow, I'd call it cautious.
Another thing we purchased is what I call the tank flush douche rod. A cheap Camping World item that puts 3 feet of soft flexible hose onto a female garden hose connection that includes a small plastic ball valve. The spray comes out as a sphere making it have an omidirectional washing pattern. After a good dump and flush, this rod gets put down the toilet's business hole and worked up/down into various positions. I've found this to break loose sludge that other methods fail to do. Our level gauge was not working at the high end owing to sludge. Used my friend "rod" and a couple of supercharges of Rid-X and now we're running pretty clean. The level gauge is now working properly too. We do normal flushes and use a little Rid-X about once per week and all seems fine. I'm certainly not number 1 in a number 2 business so the above is just my scene. Your mileage may vary. Hope it helps.
At 01:30 PM 6/18/2012, you wrote:
Yahoo Message Number: 80278 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/80278)
Bruce and Scott,
It is always good to be cautious but what is on the end of tank flush tubing is a nozzle with a bunch of small holes. In other words it leaks like a sieve. Regardless of the incoming pressure it is very hard to build up much water pressure with all that water leaking out the end. Also I believe that both an 01 Intrigue and an 06 Allure came equipped with a built in pressure regulator on the fresh water lines but not the flush lines.
While your cautious is to always use regulated water pressure when hooking up to the bus, my rule is never to hook anything up to my fresh water lines that has had anything to do with the sewage lines. I guess that we all have our individual fears. Now that I think about it you may be using a separate regulator for the flush system. If so then your caution has covered all bases.
BTW Scott what does (Bus-Stead Lemon) mean?
Don Seager
2004 Allure 31046
Bruce - Owing to the PEX tubing, fittings, connectors, hoses, etc. bus plumbing is rated for 45 PSI nominal. That's a conservative number and a good idea IMHO. I always use regulated water pressure (45 PSI nominal) when hooking any water to the bus. That to include the Santi-Flush system. Some campground stand pipes run at 125 PSI (Lake Stephens, WV for one) so you can potentially do a lot of damage and make a mess in the process.
I wouldn't call your flushing hook-up slow, I'd call it cautious.
Another thing we purchased is what I call the tank flush douche rod. A cheap Camping World item that puts 3 feet of soft flexible hose onto a female garden hose connection that includes a small plastic ball valve. The spray comes out as a sphere making it have an omidirectional washing pattern. After a good dump and flush, this rod gets put down the toilet's business hole and worked up/down into various positions. I've found this to break loose sludge that other methods fail to do. Our level gauge was not working at the high end owing to sludge. Used my friend "rod" and a couple of supercharges of Rid-X and now we're running pretty clean. The level gauge is now working properly too. We do normal flushes and use a little Rid-X about once per week and all seems fine. I'm certainly not number 1 in a number 2 business so the above is just my scene. Your mileage may vary. Hope it helps.
At 01:30 PM 6/18/2012, you wrote:
Yahoo Message Number: 80273 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/80273)
These test were done just taking reading on the tow plug (7 prong). The trailer was not hooked up. I assumed the wiring is just spliced from the tail lights. Although i dont get the same voltage reading at the coach lights
Kelly & June Campion
Luck Dragon
2002 Allure #30734
CCI #8043
FMCA #422582
Yahoo Message Number: 80294 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/80294)
Not sure what the subject is here....but the 7-pin tow plug is most likely not spliced into the coach tail light wiring. Some coaches may have a tow board mounted inside the coach. Check your schematics that came with the coach and they will show location if installed.
Jim Hughes
2000 Allure #30511
Yahoo Message Number: 80279 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/80279)
Hello,
Look in the rear engine compartment curb side on the back wall and look for a black box about 5"x10" thus is the tow board. Remove the cover to access the fuses and relays. If not there could be in the curbside rear side compartment. Hope this helps..
Regards,
Dave
Dave Rousey Jr.
Former CC Technician
Styleworks RV Repair &
Bus Restoration LLC
4764 Long St.
Sweet Home, OR 97486
(541) 543-7983
daverjr4@...