Yahoo Message Number: 83801 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/83801)
On our Allure sunset bay we have 2 cupboards aft of the bathroom door on the passenger side of the corridor through to the bedroom which have the inverter remote, the intelitec load shed display and below the main AC breakers. I am installing a battery monitor in the cupboard and had hope to use the now redundant Xantrex remote utp cable, however it is not compatable so I will need to run a new one up there from the battery locker. I was hoping someone may have some knowledge of the route that the old remote cable took and if it is likely that I could use this as a mouse wire to pull the new one through?
Michael
2008 Allure Sunset Bay, 31683
Yahoo Message Number: 83806 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/83806)
Hi Michael,
Think I might be able to help on this one as I ran this cable in for the Xantrex It was nearly four years ago but I believe the way I ran the cable was as follows: Remove the screws from the floor level wooden boxing that runs from the base of the vanity and alongside the toilet pan, remove boxing.
Remove vanity doors to facilitate the removel of the carpeted bottom shelf (screws may be a little difficult to find through the carpet) After removal of the shelf (see attached photo) you should now be able to see the old Xantrex cable to where it dissapears up the inside of the wall lining to the Xantrex panel, you should be able to use this cable to easily pull the new one up the wall lining.
As for the other end I can't remember if I removed the bottom drawer to the right of the cooker or the plinth that runs under these units, I have a feeling it was the plinth, after removal you should be able to see the cable at the back where it enters from the bathroom and through the floor to the lockers.
From the outside of the coach you should be able to trace the cable from the inverter location, to I believe the house battery locker and up through the floor.
Hope this makes sense and it helps. regards
Pete.
From: sallylillian1
To: Country-Coach-Owners@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, 9 November 2012, 16:53 Subject: [Country-Coach-Owners] Cable from Battery locker to bathroom
On our Allure sunset bay we have 2 cupboards aft of the bathroom door on the passenger side of the corridor through to the bedroom which have the inverter remote, the intelitec load shed display and below the main AC breakers. I am installing a battery monitor in the cupboard and had hope to use the now redundant Xantrex remote utp cable, however it is not compatable so I will need to run a new one up there from the battery locker. I was hoping someone may have some knowledge of the route that the old remote cable took and if it is likely that I could use this as a mouse wire to pull the new one through?
Michael
2008 Allure Sunset Bay, 31683
Yahoo Message Number: 83808 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/83808)
Thanks Pete, thats great I am going to have a close look at the cable today to see if I can make it work for me but I am not holding my breath! Overall it does not sound too complicated and as I already have a wasted cable as a mouse should be OK. I have already had the base out under the vanity unit when I wired in a small custom made and matching nickel finish electric radiator which I positioned where I had removed the magazine rack next to the loo! I will send you a PM about the Jake and the engine as Cummins are coming down to do some warranty work. (Fixes covered up to 2013 apparantly)
Hope its warm still where you are!
Michael
2008 Allure 31683
Yahoo Message Number: 83812 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/83812)
Mike,
I've done a couple of wire runs on our bus. It sounds like your layout is fundamentally different from ours, however. So I'll pass along some generic comments. Maybe they will help.
When you run wires beyond the frame rail space (fore and aft), things get a bit more difficult. Also, if tie wraps are used on existing runs it might not be a good idea to use an existing wire run as a snake. Wires that turn corners, are part of bundles and pass through holes shouldn't be pulled on. As for battery bay wiring, I ran light gauge and #6 back there for a monitor and solar array respectively. In my case, I needed to run the #6 into the tier behind the shower and the light gauge into the tier above my pantry floor cabinet. The light gauge wires were for my battery monitor. See below for pictures which might clarify:
http://muniac.smugmug.com/Travel/Country-Coach-2006-430-Allure/i-njqwZSW/0/M/IMG_3372-M.jpg (http://muniac.smugmug.com/Travel/Country-Coach-2006-430-Allure/i-njqwZSW/0/M/IMG_3372-M.jpg) Above pantry.
http://muniac.smugmug.com/Travel/Country-Coach-2006-430-Allure/i-84Q7FwG/0/M/IMG_3373-M.jpg (http://muniac.smugmug.com/Travel/Country-Coach-2006-430-Allure/i-84Q7FwG/0/M/IMG_3373-M.jpg) Behind shower.
On the solar, I ended up running the #6 under the P/S rear slide and into the rear corner closet where the lighting controls are. From there I was able to get into the engine compartment and on into the battery bay. A HUGE PITA!
http://muniac.smugmug.com/Travel/Country-Coach-2006-430-Allure/i-xNzNvSs/0/M/IMG_3270-M.jpg (http://muniac.smugmug.com/Travel/Country-Coach-2006-430-Allure/i-xNzNvSs/0/M/IMG_3270-M.jpg) Battery bay.
Accessing the sealed inverter compartment required drilling a hole and snaking the wires in from the rear near the grounding block. The light gauge run to accomplish this went down into the frame rail space then out the back, into the engine compartment and then into the inverter area. They used a styrofoam block to seal the end of the frame rail space. Wires passing through are also sealed with a tar compound. (The black tar sealant is difficult to penetrate. Also make sure you don't damage any existing wires.) I used a 12' 3/16" SS rod sharpened on one end as a snake and spear to pass through the styrofoam. Luckily I found a small crack. Once through I taped the wires to the other end of the rod and pulled the run all the way through. From there it was a bit more accessible. I can't say this was an easy job and it took Jeannie and I about 12 hours to run all the wires. That to include "stop and think" time before proceeding. I also ran extra wires while I was doing this. The plumbing bay space offers an easy path from left to right if you need that. Solid copper grounding wire makes for a good snake. Select gauge as appropriate. If you need something more slippery use THHN wire. All available at the Homo Depot.
My goal was to mimic the existing runs as much as possible and keep wire hidden and protected. I'm sure there are many acceptable pathways. This is just what I did. Good luck.
At 08:53 AM 11/9/2012, you wrote: