Yahoo Message Number: 89312 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/89312)
For what its worth we have a 2005 Inspire and live in fear of an expensive radiator replacement.
Some time ago I disconnected the automatic electro/hydraulic fan controller and hard wired a rheostat or potentiometer close to the driver?s seat. This enabled me to control the fan speed from zero to maximum depending on the water thermometer reading in the dash panel. I also opened the valve on the cooling water tank to prevent the pressure build up in the radiator. Although the 13psi pressure would raise the boiling point of the coolant to about 240degF it will also create some large internal forces within the ?cooling system. These additional forces within the radiator, the side tanks and all the hoses and clips would be considerable.
We are snowbirds and drive south to live in the motorhome for three months so our road mileage is minimal, but the combination of these two changes, though probably not ideal for most, give me greater peace of mind on these trips.
To date we?ve had no problems but of course there?s always a first time.
Tony Singleton - 2005 inspire
Yahoo Message Number: 89316 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/89316)
Hi Tony, I like your idea.....What did you use for the rheostat and did you wire it from the fuse? Thanks Luther Luther Wikle 2006 Affinity 6600
Yahoo Message Number: 89318 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/89318)
Tony, I have a 2005 Inspire that just had its radiator replaced with a copper & steel one. Although mine only cost me $265 because I have a service warranty contract, the entire cost may not be as much as you would think. The total cost for my replacement was $5238.39. I haven't driven it much yet, I will soon, but all seems well.
Good Luck,
RJ
2005 Inspire
#51264
Yahoo Message Number: 89320 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/89320)
Luther,
I did almost the same thing on my 2004 Inspire, only I used an "off-on" switch located just to the left on the driver's seat. I interrupted the wire serving the fan controller at the fuse block, routed it up to the switch and then to the fuse block. This setup keeps me from having to stop the coach and removing the fuse serving the fan controller. If high coolant temperature is observed I place the switch in the "off" position, which puts the fan in the default high speed mode. The only thing you must be aware of is the fact that sometimes the factory puts two circuits on the same fuse. In my case the other circuit was the fuel heater circuit. My thought was that the fuel heater was only needed during cold startup and the fan was only required when the engine is in an overheated condition. If my theory is correct the two components would never be in operation at the same time. Which is, I think, what the factory engineers thought about in the first place?
The other thing I did was to install rubber bushing on the coach frame to radiator mounting brackets. The factory sent these units out with the radiator securely mounted to the frame of the coach, which is just asking for trouble. My thought was that the radiator needs to be isolated from the severe vibrations and road bumps we all experience going down the road.
Thanks,
Jon Gullette
2004 Inspire #51008
Yahoo Message Number: 89331 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/89331)
Tony
I have a new Brass and Steel radiator in my coach installed just before I got it, cost around $5400 and I have the paper work on it. My big thing was going down the hwy looking at the gauges it just looked like it was hotter than it should be. I have the Edge Insight CTS in my Ford PSD love the way it tell you everything you need to know so now I have the SilverLeaf VMS 330 and the dash gauges do look hotter. My coolant runs between 197deg and 206deg at 206 I can hear the fan kick on and watch the coolant come down to 197, love real time gauges.
Floyd 2006 Inspire 51744
Yahoo Message Number: 89332 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/89332)
Tony- I'm not sure what you accomplished by installing the rheostat. Of course you have a manual system where an automatic one lived, and you have removed the automatic call for fan from the dash A/C which fan function is important for A/C system's longevity. But I don't see a gain in radiator longevity there.
I do see that the open valve relieves pressure build up for coolant expansion (which I've noted is measurable).
I have an Alpine Coach but same radiator problem occurred in our rigs (same rad supplier, same years). Our rad failures are near 100% for 05/06/early-07 m.y. rigs.
John Gullette posted on this thread: "The other thing I did- install rubber bushing on the coach frame to radiator mounting brackets. Factory sent these out w/radiator securely mounted to frame, which is asking for trouble. The radiator needs to be isolated from severe vibrations...
John's notion is borne out by Radiator Specialties' redesign of the mounting brackets after they were hit w/lawsuits over the failures- including an over-bore hole in a beefier bracket to receive a large rubber bushing. If there is one BIG thing you can do for cheap insurance IMO its to gain some isolation on the radiator mount. Might have to drill out the existing mount hole.
Mike
Some time ago I disconnected automatic fan controller & hard wired a rheostat ... to control fan speed from zero to max depending on water temp. I also opened the valve on the cooling water tank to prevent the pressure build up in the radiator. Although the 13psi pressure would raise the boiling point of the coolant to about 240degF & create some large internal forces within the ... system. To date we've had no problems but of course there's always a first time.
Tony Singleton - 2005 inspire