Yahoo Message Number: 89531 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/89531)
Folks,
A few days ago I posted a message to the forum to the effect that we discovered main awning mount on our 1995 Intrigue was compromised by screws that had either sheared off, or had essentially rotted out and were completely missing -- roughly half of them, mostly in the front half of the mounting strip.
Our request for information on how to repair the damage behind the screws went unanswered, which could be for any number of reasons ...
... but, our experience does suggest that you other owners of 1990's era CCs out there might want to inspect your awnings!
If there is any interest, I'll be happy to report back on the long-term fix we eventually have to come to.
CW Davis
Chapel Hill, NC
CC Intrigue #10096
Yahoo Message Number: 89534 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/89534)
Please give us an update. Even though many of us may not have had the problem yet, it would be helpful to put the knowledge "in the data bank" for future reference. It may be that no one answered because either they didn't have the problem or it was repaired by someone else. I, personally, would like to know your solution so that, if presented, with the problem in the future, I would be equipped with where to start on the repair. Thanks in advance,
Roger Harper
2006 Intrigue
#11990
Yahoo Message Number: 89546 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/89546)
CW,
Did you find a fix or are you still looking for suggestions?
Terry
08 Affinity #6837
Yahoo Message Number: 89550 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/89550)
Since no one answered, I will give you a thought.
Get a product called Git-Rot, sold in most marine stores, Fill the holes let it soak in then use 5200 to fill the holes and redrill.
Mikee
Yahoo Message Number: 89553 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/89553)
Instead of 5200 I meant marine tex.
Mikee
Yahoo Message Number: 89554 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/89554)
CW,
The Git-Rot will help stabilize the wood, I think that the 5200 would be too soft to hold the screws.
I would suggest West epoxy with 404 or 406 additive to thicken and strengthen the repair. The additive will thicken the epoxy so that you can get it to stay in the verticle surface while it cures. Put a piece of tape over the repair while it cures to help keep it from running down the side of the coach. Once hardened drill the epoxy and reinstall the screw. Remove the screw one last time, apply the 3M 5200 or 4600 UV Sabilized to the screw and the back of the hardware, it will be there for ever. Look at WWW.WESTSYSTEM.COM for more information. If you can't find the product locally you can order it from WWW.JAMESTOWNDISTRIBUTORS.COM.
I have seen a lot of suggestions throughout this forum to use 3M 5200, it was developed to bond and seal underwater hardware on boats. It takes about 3 days to fully cure and is a great adhesive, it remains somewhat pliable over time, but 5200 is not UV stabilized. Within a year it will start to chalk and in the futue will cause color streaks on the side of the coach. The product that 3M developed for the topsides of boat is 4600, it is UV stabilized and will not chalk, it also cures in hours, not days.
Hope this helps your problem, I know that it is a little more involved, but it sounds like you have spent a lot of time on this repair in the past and this should cure it in the long run.
Happy Motorhoming
Terry
08 Affinity 6837
Yahoo Message Number: 89555 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/89555)
I like the GetRot/MarineTex epoxies idea -- hadn't heard of either product, but both shall find a place in my supply box, for sure. Thanks for the info, Mikee.
Another idea that was emailed directly is to use pop rivets. The sender related fixing his awning mount the same way several years ago, and not having a problem since. I'm thinking it might be best to combine these two ideas, using the epoxies to seal the wound and strengthen the backing, and the pop rivets to finish it off, while the epoxy is still setting up.
Yahoo Message Number: 89556 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/89556)
Mikee, as usual has good advice. I wondered why he recommended 5200!
Marine-Tex is very similar to West epoxy, is already mixed, and will stay in the verticle surface. It uses aluminum flakes as a thickening agent. Use a tooth pick to push the epoxy into the hole and make sure that you get a good bond and place the tape over the hole while curing.
Terry
Yahoo Message Number: 89565 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/89565)
I offer two suggestions. I used a windshield silicon sealer to seal the bay door hinges which had leaked. It's very thin and seep or wicks into the voids. Fixed the problem. Might try a bead of this along the top seam when repaired.
Also, might pop rivets work in the damaged holes, then space new screws in between? The pop rivets should secure to the fiberglass, no real holding strength, but some. Also use sealant with the rivets.
On another subject, I just replaced all 4 air springs. Had a small leak. The condition of the old bags was scary after removal, saw the cording beneath the rubber. The exterior of the bags looked OK when I inspected them earlier. Should have done this earlier. If your on a Gillig chassis, send me a private message and I'll give you some suggestions. Labor was 3 hours @ $85/ hr. not bad.
Mike
Intrigue 1996 10161