Yahoo Message Number: 92199 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/92199)
I have been searching and reading most of the posts on the subject, at least the ones I can find through here and google searches.
Most of them don't finish with what the resolution to the problem was.
I came across a solution from Source. Engineering. They sell a kit where you add thermal valve to the coolant line and run the hydraulic lines to it. That takes the computer controlled valve out of the system.
Has anyone here installed this on their Country Coach?
Yahoo Message Number: 92200 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/92200)
moss(?)
Yes, several folks have taken this route including me. I have well over 10,000 miles using the Source Engineering thermal wax valve and could not be happier with it. Easy install, simple operation.
Lyle Wetherholt
04 Intrigue 11740
Yahoo Message Number: 92201 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/92201)
WHERE CAN YOU GET THESE MAGIC DEVICES ?
YOU NAME IT WHERE ARE THEY?
Yahoo Message Number: 92204 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/92204)
I put a switch in front by driver to drop power to my controller, thus making it run at high speed, work very good, most of time I dont need it but some times in mtn I need to use it
Charlie Z
Yahoo Message Number: 92208 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/92208)
Lyle,
Do you have a link to a pdf file that shows how the kit is installed? Does this eliminate the fan controller along with all the current sensors? What is the cost of the kit?
Ray 2000 Intrigue 11040
Yahoo Message Number: 92211 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/92211)
Thanks Lyle I spoke with Scott and got the kit info over to Randy Moss so he can get the system for his coach.
Thanks again
JD
John Davis
JDRV INC.
Your RV / Marine parts and service professionals
JOHN DAVIS RV SERVICES INC. (http://www.jdrv1.com/) jd@... (jd@...)
541-306-6473
541-693-3015
Yahoo Message Number: 92213 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/92213)
Ray,
I do not have a file showing the installation. If you want to call me I can talk you through it or you can call Scott Zimmer at 541-935-0308.
Lyle Wetherholt
04 Intrigue 11740
cell 575-496-1613
currently in Tempe, AZ
Yahoo Message Number: 92215 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/92215)
I am about cross eyed testing to see if I could luck out and not need a new fan controller. Best I can tell the sensors are working properly.
After reading everything I could find, seems like it would still be hit or miss if I buy a new controller based on what I actually know about diagnosing the issue.
Seems like the kit from Source Engineering is the only sure way to go doing it myself.
Thanks for the reply Lyle it helps to hear from somebody who has actually installed and used it.
Yahoo Message Number: 92223 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/92223)
Charlie - I think this is a great idea. Presently I've pulled the plug instead pending the addition of a more elegant switch. I think the cycling hydraulic fan is a poorly conceived idea. Its basis being to improve fuel economy. But at what overall expense?? The engine compartment is tight and poorly ventilated IMHO. As we know, heat is the enemy of just about all electronics, mechanical devices and materials. Throw in hoses, plastic parts, foam insulation, wiring and a myriad of other things whose life is shortened by heat. A constant flow of air is a good thing which helps reduce engine compartment temperatures. Removing the flap (which I did several seasons ago) also helps improve air flow. Since "pulling the plug", I've noticed a significant reduction in engine coolant and transmission fluid temperatures. The engine now runs 180F -> 190F. Trans stays around 10-20 degrees higher. Before the mods, temperatures would run some 20+ degrees higher than those I just quoted.
There's the issue of mechanic stress and strain induced by cycling a 40 HP fan on, off, on, off, etc. Mine idles which helps reduce HUGE starting toque forces but doesn't eliminate them. Also the air flows through other radiation devices beyond the engine coolant radiator.
That to include the charge air cooler, A/C condenser, hydraulic oil cooler and trans oil cooler (embedded within the radiator). I'd imagine the "one size fits all" cycling of these wouldn't exactly match that of the engine coolant radiator. Each radiator functions in a different system with different requirements.
Keep in the mind the 40' Allure w/tag, w/ISL 400 is an under powered vehicle that can run hot due to overloading. Me thinks it's wise to baby the drive train and do everything practical to keep temperatures cool. Pulling the plug is one of those simple things that's cheap and effective. Proper driving techniques to maintain engine RPM and limit torque also help.
Best - Scott
2006 Allure 430 40' #31349
(Bus-Stead Lemon) My Allure Page http://www.muniac.com/Allure%20Page.html (http://www.muniac.com/Allure%20Page.html)
Yahoo Message Number: 92226 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/92226)
From what I understand about the fan controller if you cut power to it it runs wide open.
How does the switch work that Charlie is talking about?
Yahoo Message Number: 92227 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/92227)
I just ran a 14 ga 2 wireoutside wire 40 ft from the controller to a switch on my side panel and marked the switch fan on. I just use the switch when the temp goes above 204, and off when temp goes to 185, this works good for me.
2002 Magna 6162
Charlie Z
Yahoo Message Number: 92230 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/92230)
An engine can also run too cool. Particularly, the CAT engines run hot per design.
Dan 2006 Allure 31348 C-9
Yahoo Message Number: 92231 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/92231)
What you did certainly will work but there was no need to run the wire all the way to the back of the coach. The fuse for the controller is usually located in the fuse chassis fuse box in the bay under the driver's side window. You can extend the 2 -14 gauge wires from there up into the coach through the floor and wire the switch in series with the fuse. Then either throwing the switch or pulling the fuse will force the fan to full speed. You will have to switch some of the wires at the fuse but that is not hard to figure out and a lot easier than running the wire all the way back. Just be sure that you have wired the switch in series with the fuse or the switch will not work as well as shorting out the fuse if in parallel.
Don Seager
czecman@... wrote:
I just ran a 14 ga 2 wireoutside wire 40 ft from the controller to a switch on my side panel and marked the switch fan on. I just use the switch when the temp goes above 204, and off when temp goes to 185, this works good for me.
2002 Magna 6162
Charlie Z
Yahoo Message Number: 92234 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/92234)
Maybe mines different or else I just don't understand how your switch works. Could you explain exactly how you wired it up? Mine has a to two prong connecter that supplies the ground and power. A six prong connector that hooks up the sensors. If I disconnect the two prong connector that supplies the power it makes no difference on mine, it still runs the fan.
Yahoo Message Number: 92243 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/92243)
ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS CUT THE HOT 12 V DC AND SPLICE YOU SWICH IN THERE AND IT WILL WORK
Charlie Z
Yahoo Message Number: 92244 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/92244)
MY FUSE UP FROUNT HAD MORE THAN THE CONTROLLER ON IT SO I COULD NOT
Charlie Z
Yahoo Message Number: 92245 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/92245)
I agree I try not to let it get too cold around 188 - 190
Charlie Z
Yahoo Message Number: 92247 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/92247)
I got an email from Fred. He explained it to where I understood what Charlie was talking about on wiring the controller to turn off he fan.
Now I am wondering instead of putting an on off switch at the dash, why couldn't the original sensor for the controller be removed from the radiator line and replaced with a normally closed switch that opens when you reach a certain operating temperature ?
Yahoo Message Number: 92249 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/92249)
For those that read this thread in the future. Please note that Don did say that some wires will need to be switched at the fuse panel. That is easier then running it all the way to the back... Both will work, so doing what your comfortable with is OK:)!
Smitty
04 Allure 31017
Yahoo Message Number: 92254 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/92254)
When my fan control sensors went out I wired a switch in series with the fuse in the front run 12 volt fuse panel. That switch allowed me to switch the fan to high speed as others have said.
However, I'm not sure that there aren't other things affected when the circuit at the fuse is turned off. I have Silverleaf's JIB and run VMSpc on my laptop. When I disabled the fan controller with the switch the data buss seemed to freeze as my display stopped changing until I switched the fuse to provide power to the fan controller.
Pete 2000 40' Magna CAT C10, #5892