Yahoo Message Number: 6848 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/6848)
This is the first time that I will winterize our 99 Intrigue. I followed all the steps in the manual except for blowing out the lines. I don't have the adapter for the fill connection so I can give it some pressure. Is this that necessary? Also, do you have to do anything to the washer or the electric water heater? On my last coach, all I had to do was push a button and all the lines were full of antifreeze. So much for movin up. Any help will be appreciated.
Thanx.
John
99Intrigue #10877
02 Grand Cherokee
Yahoo Message Number: 6853 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/6853)
I live in Michigan and have winterized my 2000 Allure for the last 3 winters without any problems.
I do blow out all the lines and the water heater using an air conpressor. I put about 40-50 lbs of pressure in the line and systematically open and close all hot and cold water valves until I get only air. (including the outside one and the washer) There is usually quite a lot of water before I get only air. An adapter for the city water inlet was included with my Coach (purchased new). I have also seen the adaptors at camping world and RV dealers parts displays.
If you have the Atwood water heater, you need to drain it by removing the plastic plug. I use air pressure to make sure the water heater is drained and you need to remove the water filter (mine is in the drivers side bay just ahead of the water/sewer bay behind a plastic plate on the rear bay wall).
I also put RV antifreeze down all drains, using enough to get a quart or two into the black and gray tanks.
Dick
2000 Allure 30592
Yahoo Message Number: 6859 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/6859)
Dick's procedure is exactly the same that I follow. A couple of additional points.
I also siphon out the remaining water in the water heater, not for freeze protection, but because the bottom of the tank collects all the nasties.
I open the fridge access door and disconnect the line to the ice maker (with the air pressure on) to purge the water. After reconnecting, I then cycle the ice make several times until air blows through.
I also cycle the washing machine.
Arthur Block
2002 Intrigue #11332
Yahoo Message Number: 6860 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/6860)
John,
If you do not have an adapter, go to Home Depot or Lowes and pick up a brass male hose end to 1/2 or 3/4 inch pipe. Get a quick connect air male fitting to 1/4" NPT and the necessary coupling pieces to connect these two fittings together. Now you can connect the unit to the city water inlet and the air hose from your air compressor. If you have a regulator, which I recommend, set the air pressure on the line to 40 pounds and go through all the faucets one at a time. Do not forget to blow the water out at the toilet, also. I have found this to be a easy way to do it by myself.
Dave G.
2000 Allure 30491
Millheim, PA
Yahoo Message Number: 6861 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/6861)
Thanks for the idea on connecting the compressor to the City water inlet.
When I blow out the water lines with out help, it will save a lot of time and wear and tear on my body running from the air compressor to a faucet and then back to the air compressor to re-pressure the line when the air pressure drops off.
Dick
2000 Allure 30592
Yahoo Message Number: 6883 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/6883)
Thanks to all for your help on winterizing our coach. Everything is now done.
John
99 Intrigue
02 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Yahoo Message Number: 42823 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/42823)
Does anyone have a detailed DIY winterizing list. Many of the lists I've read are somewhat general, I'm a little concerned about the icemaker in our electric fridge and the washing machine.
Thanks
Graeme
09 Allure Crane Prairie #31690
Yahoo Message Number: 42827 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/42827)
I could provide what you need, in detail, but it's for a coach without Aqua/HydoHot. It does talk about ice makers on a Norcold gas/electric, wash machines, etc. and worked well for us former Minnesotans, don't ya know. ;-))
Let me know if you want it and where to e-mail it as an attachment.
Lee
Yahoo Message Number: 42831 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/42831)
Graeme,
I have an electric refrigerator, an aqua hot and live in Colorado. Here is how I winterize:
1) Remove your water filter(s), replace the canister but without the filter
2) Remove the refrigerator filter and install the plug that came with it
3) Open your low port drains, let it drain, then close these drains
4) Install the water line blow out adaptor to the fresh water inlet use a compressor with about 45-50 LBS pressure and put air pressure into the water line
5) Open one faucet inside at a time until only air is coming out, don't forget to run both the cold and hot water, do this on all faucets, don't forget to flush your toilet and any outside (plumbing bay)sprayers and faucets and shower head.
6) After all water is evacuated open low port drains to blow out then close them
7) You must have around 6 or 7 gallons of RV anti freeze available
8) Either install a winterizing kit inline at the inlet side of your water pump (for present and future use), or unscrew the inlet side of your water pump and attach a small water line with enough hose to insert into the gallons on RV antifreeze ( every model coach is different, some already have a bypass installed)
9) Turn on your water pump, it will self prime, go inside and open each faucet until you see the "pink" coming out. Do this for all faucets, don't forget the following; flush toilet, open shower head, hot & cold and outside faucets or/and sprayers. This process is easier with two people as someone must insert the outside water line into a full bottle of RV Antifreeze. Turn off your water pump in between changing bottles of Antifreeze.
10) once the above is completed, with all faucets closed and your water line now pressurized; make sure that the main waterlines for the washing machine are still on, now set your washer to warm water and start your machine, this will take one or two gallons of antifreeze. Once you are confident that you have enough water (pink stuff) in your machine, stop your washer from filling, turn off your water pump, and run the machine thought the drain cycle
11) Turn your pump back on, make sure you have a full bottle of antifreeze attached; leave your waterline pressurized for about 24 hrs, the ice maker will cycle several times winterizing the lines. Be aware that the pink stuff does not freeze and will dump into your ice cube holder. I clean this up the next day when I disconnect the filler line and re connect the fresh water line to the inlet side of the water pump.
Now you are fully winterized if i haven't forgotten something.
Please note some folks think you are winterized if you only blow out the waterlines. If you have an Aqua Hot, blowing out the lines will NOT remove all of the water in the fresh water coils and if you are in a "hard freeze" climate you can cause damage.
I hope this helps. This process only takes about 1 hour.
Dan & Nancy Nigro
08 Intrigue #12233
Yahoo Message Number: 42836 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/42836)
Yahoo Message Number: 42837 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/42837)
Don,
The only reason that i blow out the lines is so the antifreeze does not get diluted. I am just being caucus.
Happy Thanksgiving to all!
Dan & Nancy Nigro
08 Intrigue #12233
Yahoo Message Number: 42848 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/42848)
Dan, this is a great procedure . . .parallels my SOB process. Two additional suggestions -
Suggestion #1 - for a Splendide Washer/Dryer this variation on your step #10 will use only a few cups of Antifreeze but does the job equally well.:
a. Water pump on;
b. Add 2 cups antifreeze to inside of washer;
c. Set water temp to warm, dry timer to zero;
d. Rotate Selector knob to any Wash setting;
e. Press power button to on until you hear liquid enter machine for 10-15 seconds (that will flush water from lines and introduce antifreeze;
f. Turn Selector knob to first Reset position, wait 5-10 seconds for click and/or indicator light flashes;
g. Turn Selector knob to any Spin position. Allow washer to Spin for 20 seconds;
h. Turn Selector knob to any Reset position, wait for click and/or indicator light flashes (there may be a delay but then you should be able to open the door);
i. Turn power off.
Suggestion #2 - Pour 2 cups anti-freeze down each shower/tub, lavatory sink, and kitchen sink to fill p-traps.
Lee
Yahoo Message Number: 42859 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/42859)
Thanks to everyone for their suggestions, I think I've got all my bases covered now. One thing I did come across with some more research was the city water connection which I'll use one of the wetbay taps to push the pink stuff through and then use Fred S. suggestion of tipping coach to the D/S, should be able to get most of the pink stuff out of the fresh water tank.
Thanks again.
Graeme
09 Allure Crane Prairie #31690
Yahoo Message Number: 75874 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/75874)
I have a 2004 intrigue and would like some advice on winterizing. I live in the Fort worth area of Tx and it will surely freeze here this winter. This is my first experience at this with this coach. We moved here from Ca and have never had to think about this before. Any help will be appreciated.
Yahoo Message Number: 75992 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/75992)
Edward:
I spent last year in Mansfield, just south of Arlington, and just south of Amarillo - about ten degrees colder than Fort Worth. I have some ideas that worked for me. Most are pretty obvious once you think about it, but here it is.
I have a Hydrohot hydronic heater in my coach, and used it mainly to fill in heat as needed, when my two electric forced air heaters would not keep up with the chill. The two heaters run off their own 30 amp circuit installed in the coach, not integrated into the inverter or other on board power supply. I lived aboard, so could keep an eye on it.
One of my heaters has a nice LCD control readout, and will overload the inverter and pop the circuit breakers on the inverter. The other one has a bimetal switch and doesn't care how it is powered.
My hydronic heater works great, but does use diesel, so I use it as little as possible. Another thing the hydronic heater does is circulate hot water through a passive heat exchanger in the water bay to keep that from freezing. I had a remote thermometer in the water bay to keep an eye on it, and found if I kept the coach inside temperature at about 60 with the hydronic heater, the temperature in the water bay stayed above 40. The water bay has its own thermostat to activate the hydronic heater independently if necessary. My water bay thermostat was broken, so I replaced it with an industrial thermostat last spring.
If you are paranoid about frozen tanks, you can monitor with an inexpensive remote thermometer (Home Depot), run a trouble light in the bay area, and even invest in a cheap hair dryer powered through a freeze sensing thermostat, also at Home Depot. I did not find those necessary.
During really cold weather, pulling the slides in helps reduce the volume of air to be heated. Keep one overhead vent open about half an inch, or you will ice up the windows and frames, and when the ice melts you will have a mess. The condensate can be harmful to your coach structure, and will at least water stain your curtains. $200 to get mine washed and re-pleated in Fort Worth.
Silver bubble wrap insulation in the front window and at the head of the bed keep the temperature more comfortable. I also have a heated bed pad to get the bed toasty. Another trick is to put one of those heaters in the bathroom area, close the bedroom and kitchen sliding doors and get the bathroom nice and warm for showers.
I put a heat tape along my incoming water hose, covered by foam ¾ inch hose insulation. I use paper tape to keep the assembly together, because it is easier to refresh the next cold season. Some people just passing through cold weather drain their water supply hoses, use their onboard tanks, and refill during the warm part of the day when needed.
If you keep it connected, be sure your sewer hose has a constant drainage slope on it. You do NOT want a frozen plug in your sewer hose.
Welcome to Texas!!!!!
Jack, 2003 Intrigue 11527, jjgnn@...