Yahoo Message Number: 94176 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94176)
Another broken shear pin. This time it is the rear street side slide pin. Does anyone know how to access the motor area? It is located behind the propane tank. All responses are much appreciated.............Logan.....07Inspire52000
Yahoo Message Number: 94177 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94177)
more accurately: it is the rear pin on the front street side slide..........sorry
Yahoo Message Number: 94178 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94178)
I had repetitive slide bold failure with powergear shaft until I ordered the correct bolts from powergear. After I replaced I had no more problems.
Rod
Yahoo Message Number: 94180 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94180)
I agree with other posters that the proper shear pins are required for longer life. I was not clear if you had used non stock shear pins when you replaced them before? Kevin Waite is where I got my shear pins, and I carry spares. (Knock on wood, have never had a shear pin break - yet:)!
I'm not real up on the Inspire, so this may be different with your coach, but a few best practices that members of this board passed onto me when I was new to CC and slides:)!
1) Crack a window or door when opening and closing the slides. (Reduces drag when opening, and compression when closing.
2) I was taught to count to five when done moving in or out. Some magic about self adjusting/syncing of both motors and drives, to keep them in alignment working together.
Those were the key things for day to day usage.
Other comments:
- Check and maintain fluid levels in the system - Check when closed, for good fit of the slide into the opening. If it is off, this can add strain to the system, and strain could add to pin shear - We always open/close our slides with the engine running, to be sure that adequate power is available to the motor drives. (Some don't worry about this, and even run the slides off of the inverters. I suppose full power from 50Amp hook up, would probably be OK too.)
If you have any concern about alignment being off, or motors not working in sync - get it in and get it serviced by a reputable shop.
All of these are just opinions, and what I have picked up from others on this board. But, reading the manual for full rules on the slides for your specific coach, is always the way to go.
Best of luck, and if you find you had a problem with the slides, please update so that we can all learn from it, Smitty
04 Allure 31017
Yahoo Message Number: 94182 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94182)
I agree mostly with Smitty with the exception to holding for the count of five. Hydraulic slides do like to be pressurized to help with the equalization cylinder but with the power gear rack and pinion there is no limit switch so the system just dead-heads. One should be very carful when extending and stop the moment movement stops. There is nothing to be gained with holding the switch down except shearing pins. At least that's the way it was on the 05 inspire I owned.
Rod
Yahoo Message Number: 94184 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94184)
IMHO....You have to find the "Root Cause"....What's causing the shear pin to break? If you are using a #10 hard pin, then the likely cause is that the hole in the shaft is "wallowed out"! In such a case, each time the powerful motor turns the shaft, extreme leverage is placed on the pin bending it. You may have to ask power gear to make a new shaft for you to properly solve the problem.
My advice.....find a good tech before you end up damaging your slide walls.
D Jean
CC81072
Yahoo Message Number: 94185 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94185)
Don't know about the shear pin but I keep the drop down area clean, pull up the edge of the carpet on the slide and vacuum then use a Spray Silicone Lubricant on the plastic plus I removed the 4 bolts one at a time that holds the motor in place and put Blue Loctite on them because they are ready to fall out.
Floyd 2006 Inspire 51744
Yahoo Message Number: 94186 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94186)
I have had problems with the shear pin breaking and not allowing the slide to come in or out. Kevin solved the problem. He drilled out the the area where the pin goes in and placed a perfectly machined bolt. This does not allow for any movement. I have not had a problem since Kevin addressed the issue. We are very fortunate to have someone like Kevin to solve our CC problems.
Stan
2005 Inspire
514096
Yahoo Message Number: 94187 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94187)
I can't agree more with Floyd in making sure the motor in secure. The bolts go through the bulkhead and are subject to getting loose. This allows excessive movement of the motor and will cause the pins to shear. The proper shear pins are also very important. I speak from experience.
Jock Vargo
2005 Inspire
51428
Yahoo Message Number: 94188 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94188)
Thanks Rod - I've added to my learning curve:)!
I will add the one thing I should have noted to also reduce undue strain - I also was taught to level the coach first... (Though reading other boards with no CC owners, some say to put out slide, and then level... So not always the same over all mfg's.).
Smitty
04 Allure 31017
Yahoo Message Number: 94194 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94194)
Smitty,
Practical experience makes me want to vote in favor of leveling first. I had two windshields split across the middle due to the coach being off level and having put out the slides anyway. It was the best I could do in a very un-level site. The problem was that the site was off level side to side. The coach can be off level front to back with little consequence except walking up or down hill all night. Side to side however is a different issue as it can tend to torque the frame depending how much further out of level the front wheels are with respect to the rear wheels. In my case I could not level the coach side to side so I got it as close as I could and proceeded to extend the slides anyway. It didn't happen immediately but rather about 5 minutes after setting up. Standing in the coach talking to my wife the windshield split down the middle right before our eyes. it was a sickening sound. I should have know when I found that I could not open most of the bay doors due to the distortion. On the other occasion the coach had been sitting in my daughters driveway for several weeks. I had leveled the coach when I put it there but the slides were not extended. One day day I visited the coach to get something and noticed it had drifted off level by quite a lot. I activated the HWH auto-leveling and was sitting there waiting for it to come back to level when the windshield suddenly split across the upper right corner on the drivers side.
So after a hard learned lesson I became very sensitive to sites that are obviously off level side to side. Most sites by the way are off level front to back it seems. In the last few years of owning a coach I would not even drive onto a site that was clearly off level side to side. if I could not see that it was off level then I would never extend the slides unless it could achieve side to side leveling. As I mentioned front to back did not worry me. So I always advise leveling first before extending the slides. Give it much thought from a physical perspective and it makes sense. I can not off hand think of any argument against it other than you might have to re-level a bit once the slides are extended. Small price to pay considering the possible consequence of doing it the other way.
According to the last research I did on the subject, todays gas absorption refrigerators can operate ok as long as they are not more than 6 degrees out of level.
Don Seager
Former CC owner
Thanks Rod - I've added to my learning curve:)!
I will add the one thing I should have noted to also reduce undue strain - I also was taught to level the coach first... (Though reading other boards with no CC owners, some say to put out slide, and then level... So not always the same over all mfg's.).
Smitty
04 Allure 31017
Yahoo Message Number: 94200 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94200)
If you have jacks, you should extend slides first and retract last. So it would go like this, locate on space, set parking brake, extend slides, level.
If you have air leveling you should extend slides first, but it is not as critical.
The logic being with air bags the chassis is not in stress, it may not be level, but it is not twisted. When you extend the jacks you can distort the chassis thus making the slide cutouts something other than square. A good example is the bay doors being difficult to open.
Mikee
Yahoo Message Number: 94205 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94205)
Mikee,
My coach had air bag leveling. In your opinion then what made my windshield crack and my bay door stuck closed on a site that I could not achieve side to side level and extended the slides? Once it cracked and the slides were not out at all.
I certainly have to agree with you on extending the slides first if you have jacks. I tend to forget about that because CC didn't use them very often in later years. Smitty's coach also has air bag leveling.
Don Seager
Former CC Owner
If you have jacks, you should extend slides first and retract last. So it would go like this, locate on space, set parking brake, extend slides, level.
If you have air leveling you should extend slides first, but it is not as critical.
The logic being with air bags the chassis is not in stress, it may not be level, but it is not twisted. When you extend the jacks you can distort the chassis thus making the slide cutouts something other than square. A good example is the bay doors being difficult to open.
Mikee
Yahoo Message Number: 94206 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94206)
Mikee, Don, Smitty
I have always leveled the coach first, and then put out the slides. But your point of twisting the body after leveling makes sense. If I put the slides out first then level, my concern is the jerking up and down to attain level doing damage to the slide.
Stan 2005 Inspire
Yahoo Message Number: 94207 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94207)
Hi Don, Mikee,
Don knows my coach well, probably better tha I do yet - as he had a 'few' more years of using the same model then I have.
I will second that in some less than ideal leveled areas, even after leveling, I've seen what I would call stress on the body itself. Basement doors being tough to open, is a sure sign that not all is stress free:)!. When this happens, it seems to me that the front passenger side is the lowest side on the ground, needing the highest air bag height compensation to get to or near level. I have one place I park when washing the rig, that I have two 2x10 boards that I run the front passenger tire up on, to help out on this.
When I mentioned that other mfg's may recommend different processes on leveling Slide out Last in some cases. This was from talking with other mfg coach owners, and a long thread on RV.Net Class A forum about three years ago.
I know that Mikee has some RV smarts, so please add more info for us if it's appropriate.
Best to all,
Smitty
04 Allure 31017
Yahoo Message Number: 94210 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94210)
It will cause more damage by distorting the slide hole in the body, like trying to put a square object thru a non square hole.
Mikee
Yahoo Message Number: 94211 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94211)
My procedure is to level first to make sure the site will level then extend the slides. The HWH will Not extend unless the coach is within limits for extension. 06 intrigue 12047. Bob
Yahoo Message Number: 94212 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94212)
On a fair amount of coaches it the coach is not in ride height the slides will not deploy or retract. The slides look for the ride height mode to allow operation. All Prevosts are this way as well as some others I know of.
Mikee
Yahoo Message Number: 94226 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94226)
Mikee.
CC manual for Power Gear jack states Level First. Extend slide. and if you want relevel coach. I do this on occasion but then I use the manual leveling part for the system.
Jock Vargo
2005 Inspire
51428
Yahoo Message Number: 94228 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94228)
No argument. It is your coach do what makes you comfortable.
Extend first seems to be more of a norm than the other way. I do not think Powergear makes chassis or understands the flexing involved.
Not trying to start an argument, but /i have never heard of a slide issue extending first.
Mikee
Yahoo Message Number: 94230 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94230)
It would be interesting to hear their logic for this statement.
Mikee
Yahoo Message Number: 94235 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94235)
Hi all
On my inspire with hydraulic powergear jacks I always leveled first. When I put slides out without jacks it felt like there was I little leaning perhaps not being taken up when on air bags so I would do half one side the half the other until out. The powergear operators also said to level first. On the magna country coach told me to put slides out then press the level button. Their theory was to level after the weight had been distributed since it would be different once the slides are out. Been working so far.
Rod
Yahoo Message Number: 94244 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94244)
Mikee,
Sorry but I think you have made an error. You must level first before extending the slides! My coach at least has an interlock that will not allow the slides out unless the coach is level!
Michael
2008 Allure 31683
Yahoo Message Number: 94245 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94245)
I am aware CC used this method on several models, however from experience repairing coaches this does not always work out too well.
Mikee
Yahoo Message Number: 94246 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94246)
Coachs with a single front jack are more likely to twist the frame than an air bag system with Two front bags. My coach with HWH leveling will not allow the slide pump to turn on unless The coach is level 06 intrigue. 12047. Bob
Yahoo Message Number: 94250 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94250)
Mikee, clearly you have a wealth of experience to call upon and I would like to understand why in your opinion extending the slides with the coach out of level is a better proposal. In my simple layman approach it would seem that with the coach level the steel sub frame is level and the main coach body is level. The slides then run out without undue gravity holding them back or accelerating them out, and equally not loading one slide mechanism (assuming more than one on the slide out) more than the other. All very logical, and if the manufacturer defines this in the manual, and installs interlocks to ensure correct procedures as so defined, why would an owner be motivated to ignore the instructions? Whilst I accept that a manufacturer can get things wrong, this is a very fundamental practice which does have some laws of physics to evidence it. Anyway as I say I have no choice save to get an electrician to bypass the interlocks.
Michael
2008 Allure 31683
Yahoo Message Number: 94251 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94251)
Interesting conversation. Several coach makers have interlocks to prevent extending the slides unless in ride height. Seems to be a mixed point of view.
I will say with air suspension it is not as critical, but with jacks the chance of chassis distortion is greater.
Now, the mechanical slides mechanisms tend to be less powerful and have shear pins etc, so they may not have the umph to move a slide unless it is level.
3 point jacks tend to flex the chassis less than 4 point jacks.
When in ride height the chassis may be off level, but it is not under flex stress. Again with air leveling it is not as critical.
Mikee
Yahoo Message Number: 94253 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/94253)
I have no doubt, that the mfg's engineers provide the spec's on what they felt is the least impacting method of leveling vs slide operation.
I've also seen say engineer 1 insist that the only way to get to '4' is by 2+2. While in the same room, using teh same information to base his opinion (could have been a her too, but most of the time the opinionated ones are 'he's'), concluded very firmly that the only way to get to '4' is by 3+1.
Suggest following your manuals directions, if outlined. If not, to network with other coach owners that have your specific year and model for their best practices.
But as Don pointed out, even with air bag leveling, some sites are just not as easy as other sites to get leveled in. This could be a limitation in the range of individual corners up/down, so a different coach even within the same mfg, may have no problem leveling on a site that was a 'no go' for another coach owner.
We learn our coaches, and use them based upon what we've learned...
Good conversation and info sharing, especially important to recognize the differences between air and 'to the ground' leveling systems.
Best to all,
Smitty
04 Allure 31017