Country Coach Owners Forum

Yahoo Message Number: 7378 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/7378)

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The cover is accessed by opening the compartment door outside under the driver seat area and you will see the electric motor, wiring and track housing that extend from the center of the coach out to the main entry door. The motor has a gear on the end that moves a rack back and forth to extend and retract the cover. The wires are color coded and numbered. You will find the same harness going to the switch on the dash board. One source of failure can be the contacts at the switch that is easily removed by slight pressure with a screwdriver behind each side of it. Check the wiring contacts.
The switch on the dash is double-pull double-throw and intended to send power to one side of the motor (black wire) to extend, the other side of the motor (red wire) to retract. There are also limit switches on each end of the rack that are to stop the power to the motor when contacted.
At least one of three things can happen: One, the motor can have a flat spot in the armature and simply quit half way through it's cycle. The manufacturer admitted to me that they had a series of bad motors once.
Two: You could have a limit switch that sticks, thus shutting off power to the motor. Three: The motor can just quit.
If you want to take the entire rack, motor and all out and send to the mfg. as I did, you have to get under the front end and remove the large cover, thus accessing the main bolt holding the rack to the slide. Two bolts hold the assembly to the frame. Wear coveralls. Other things are more fun.
If you are brave like me, you can rewire the blasted thing and eliminate the end switches. Not fail safe, but it works every time now.
Larry
Intrigue
10762

Yahoo Message Number: 7383 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/7383)

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If in fact your motor has a "flat spot" or dead spot, sometimes it can be confirmed easily with a slight rap with the hammer....Hold the switch down, with the motor not working and tap on the motor to see if it'll move...if so and it's confirmed that was helpful and none of the connections are bad, then it'll take a new motor...(or you could just stomp on the floor when you wanted it to work, hee, hee)..be aware that the connections on most coaches are those clamp together ones, similiar to auto rental trailer clamps...look good but don't always work when exposed to moisture and dirt, as they are.....
For reference, if you have a dead spot, with power applied to the motor it'll look like and open circuit at the motor leads.

Ray and Rue

99 36ft Single Slide
Allure 30322

the driver seat area and you will see the electric motor, wiring and track housing that extend from the center of the coach out to the main entry door. The motor has a gear on the end that moves a rack back and forth to extend and retract the cover. The wires are color coded and numbered. You will find the same harness going to the switch on the dash board. One source of failure can be the contacts at the switch that is easily removed by slight pressure with a screwdriver behind each side of it. Check the wiring contacts.

send power to one side of the motor (black wire) to extend, the other side of the motor (red wire) to retract. There are also limit switches on each end of the rack that are to stop the power to the motor when contacted.

flat spot in the armature and simply quit half way through it's cycle. The manufacturer admitted to me that they had a series of bad motors once.

power to the motor. Three: The motor can just quit.

the mfg. as I did, you have to get under the front end and remove the large cover, thus accessing the main bolt holding the rack to the slide. Two bolts hold the assembly to the frame. Wear coveralls.
Other things are more fun.

eliminate the end switches. Not fail safe, but it works every time now.