Yahoo Message Number: 106962 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/106962)
My fan controller finally died. I know if I unplug it fan will run on high speed. Does anyone know if I connect a switch to the fuse can I manually control it until I get somewhere to replace it with a wax valve?
Thanks
Ray Down
06 Inspire 51602
Yahoo Message Number: 106963 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/106963)
Chris Snyder while he was in Tucson had a couple of owners he serviced install switches that way, I did it temporarily until Eric good get a wax valve controller for me. Its been over 2 years with the wax valve and I'm glad I don't I have to worry issue. TWI 2004 Intrigue 11731
Yahoo Message Number: 106964 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/106964)
That should work.
Larry, 03 Allure, 30856
Yahoo Message Number: 106965 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/106965)
Ray,
I installed a Danfoss controller bi-pass switch on my 05 Inspire two years ago.
It's quite easy and works great. It allows my to default my fan to high speed whenever I want, such as climbing a long steep mountain grade.
In the outside compartment under the drivers seat you will find a fuse box for the chassis controls. look for a fuse wire tagged fan controller, I think its #73 or #74.
All you have to do is cut the wire coming from the fuse and install a loop circuit up to your drivers left control panel. I had a blank in the panel where I installed an on/off rocker switch that I got from Radio Shack. The switch lights up when I'm bi-passing the controller making it easy to monitor.
Hope this helps. Good Luck!
RJ 2005 Inspire #51264
Yahoo Message Number: 106966 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/106966)
Yes, I've running mine this way since replacing the controller four years ago. One, it's better safe than sorry and two it's great for a little extra cooling on long slow climbs.
Yahoo Message Number: 106969 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/106969)
Many thanks to all that replied.
I have installed a switch and plugged the danfoss back in, at idle it stays in high no matter what position switch is in, hopefully it will go back to low speed once the engine warms up.
Yahoo Message Number: 106970 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/106970)
No need to take it off high speed won't hurt a thing I ran mine for 6 months that way
Yahoo Message Number: 106971 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/106971)
just remember this, if you have your system operating the way it's supposed to, you won't overheat! other than that, you're putting a Band-Aid on the real problem! When you're overheating it's either a bad radiator probably aluminum or fan speed controller or a fan motor from the time I own my coach the first three years I had all three of these problems overheating the main culprit once I resolve the issues the coach runs at 185 and possibly 200 on a steep hill
Yahoo Message Number: 106973 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/106973)
When the controller died we were going up a long hill and overheated because it was on low speed. When I unplugged it went to high speed and no more problems. Ran at 185 from then on. I did not know if it was bad to run on high all the time. Will be in western Wa in a month so plan on getting it replaced at that time.
Ray Down
2006 Inspire 51602
Yahoo Message Number: 106974 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/106974)
The last time mine went out, and I cleaned the connections added some dyslectic grease and am going on 3 years. I clean it once a year as part of my maintenance.
Dan 2006 Allure 31348
Dan
Yahoo Message Number: 106975 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/106975)
Cleaned the plug connections, dielectric grease and working great for me to:-)
/Mike
2005 CC Magna Matisse C13, #6501
Yahoo Message Number: 106982 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/106982)
Cummins in Eugene Oregon has a mechanical controller and lots of experience installing them these units are almost identical to the Monico units. Eugene and Junction City are the best place for getting work done on your country coach after all it is their home also recommend Oregon coach Jim Cooley
Yahoo Message Number: 106983 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/106983)
I don't know if I have a fan controller problem or not, but when I'm climbing long grades or mountains my engine starts to heat up. I have to shift down into second or first gear in order to control it. The red light comes on at about 205 deg. Which seems a little soon for overheating. t The Silverleaf hasn't given any warning as of yet. IT normally runs at around 180 deg. The engine seems to have plenty if power even at the higher gears. My engine is a Cummins 400isl.
glen coulter
2003 intrigue
On Monday, July 4, 2016 8:13 AM, "brian morrow bhmmorrow@... [Country-Coach-Owners]" wrote:
Cummins in Eugene Oregon has a mechanical controller and lots of experience installing them these units are almost identical to the Monico units. Eugene and Junction City are the best place for getting work done on your country coach after all it is their home also recommend Oregon coach Jim Cooley
Yahoo Message Number: 106984 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/106984)
If you have a $400 ISL you will heat up to about 205 on steep grades and that's normal I do suggest dropping in lower gears to keep the RPM up in the lower 2000 RPM ranges with an ISL 400 you just have to be patient on a hill keep your RPM up and wait it out the electronic fan controllers are a piece of junk so I would suggest a monocle style mechanical that goes into the radiator and read everything mechanically they work much better
Yahoo Message Number: 106985 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/106985)
My Sour Danfoss failed 3 years ago while driving from San Diego to Tucson. The fuse for it was in the panel in the compartment under the driver. On my coach, it was wire #84. I chased it to connector DC-3 located under the transmission controller and added a switch in series which I mounted on the dash. Turning the switch off forced the fan on high. It was an easy temporary fix and I drove to NE Maryland manually controlling the fan as I did not want the fan on full speed the whole trip. (Note I was unable to get the replacement part for a month, so drove home with the manual control.) The switch is still in place and is left there in case of a future emergency.
Also note that there was no easy way to run the necessary pair of wires to the switch from the fuse panel to the dash. Wire #84 went to the controller via a connector under the transmission controller. Taping in there was easy.
Dennis
2003 Allure #30884
Yahoo Message Number: 106986 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/106986)
I installed a switch and drove 6,000 miles that way. It did work you must have the switch on the wrong fuse. I had a Laptop version of the silverleaf sitting on the tray on the dash. Had an alarm set to go off at 205 degrees when it went off I hit the switch and left it on till the engine hit 180. I installed mine on the fused side of the fuse. Ran the wire up thru the heating duct and ran the fan manually until I had Kevin Waite and Brian Schack install a wax thermal unit.
Brian O'Day
2006 Inspire 360
Portland Oregon
From: Country-Coach-Owners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Country-Coach-Owners@yahoogroups.com] Sent: Sunday, July 03, 2016 1:05 PM To: Country-Coach-Owners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Country-Coach-Owners] Re: Sour Danfoss fan controller
Many thanks to all that replied.
I have installed a switch and plugged the danfoss back in, at idle it stays in high no matter what position switch is in, hopefully it will go back to low speed once the engine warms up.
Yahoo Message Number: 106995 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/106995)
Yahoo Message Number: 106996 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/106996)
You know I don't notice much difference in any event I get 7to8 miles to the gallon depending on the environment. I did however notice more power. The hydraulic fan motor takes a lot of energy when it's running full speed. Also, The fan motors are very expensive and can get a little dirty and the result is lower RPM and engine overheating. No one I know in the u.s. is capable of rebuilding these motors and cleaning them. If I remember correctly they are about $1,500 and take 3 months to get from England! in other words keep your hydraulic fluid clean! The mechanical fan controllers are very Superior and fast responding to the changing heating conditions of your engine. Cummins in Eugene Oregon installed mine and did a very good job. The older Monaco's used them as Standard equipment.
Yahoo Message Number: 106997 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/106997)
I also have an 03 Allure, I have a 370 ILS, I have a feeling my fan is not running properly.
The best MPG I have haver gotten was 6, and thats on the flat going from NC to Florida. If I go up grade, I need to run the generator for AC, as if I run coach AC I will over heat.
When I first bought the coach, a few years ago in November, I could not get the engine warm enough for heat, It always ran cold. Before I got into this matter, It kinda fixed itself ..
I guess I should look into the fan.
Bob
03 Allure, 3 Slide tag #30814
Yahoo Message Number: 107002 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/107002)
The short answer is no. However I haven’t driven that much since it was installed. The engine temp seems to stay constant at around 180. I have experienced more fan noise. With the wax valve the fan speeds up with the engine so it sounds more like a diesel truck than it did before. I can live with that as long as the engine stays that constantly cool.
Brian O’Day
2006 Inspire 360
Portland Oregon
Yahoo Message Number: 107004 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/107004)
Yes about .5 to 1 mpg. Sometimes even more. Even with the coach running 7 to 10 degrees cooler. TWI 2004 Intrigue 11731
Yahoo Message Number: 107006 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/107006)
I have chased an overheating problem for several years. In May, I solved the problem by having a thermo valve installed by Source Engineering in Coburg, OR. Works great!. I went south over Siskiyou Summit at a max temp of 194. It normally operates around 180. I would recommend one to solve overheating problems caused by the Sauer Danfoss valve.
Louie P
2004 Allure #31039 2014 Honda CRV
Yahoo Message Number: 107011 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/107011)
I went thru the unplug, clean the connectors, add dialectic grease phase. Did this two times, when I noticed usually fan module control activity.
For various reasons, I elected to have the Source Engineering Wax Valve solution installed while in Oregon. What I really like about this, is it's KISS. And it is infinitely variable, so the cooling fan only runs at the RPM required to maintain cooling. This directs more power to the wheels, where I like it.
Good quality components, professional install.
More MPG? Well I'd say yes - except I'm using the extra power for the wheels, so quite often it's a zero sum on MPG, but higher MPH while hill climbing.
Engine temps cooler? Well yes. But, I think this more from running Final Charge, after a good flush. That took place before the S.E. Wax Valve install. I usually run 185, today while traveling I90 into a heavy head wind in the mid 80's outside (These were sustained head winds, with rolling hills to some pretty good and long inclines.), with OTR AC running - the temp worked it's way up to 195-197 range.
Very pleased with the results.
Tip: If the current radiator hoses are old, and or thermostat - it's a great time to spend a few more bucks, and have them replaced at the same time as a Wax Valve KISS solution.
Best to all,
Smitty
04 Allure, 31017. ISL370 Cummins ECM programmed to ISL400. CAPS era engine.
Yahoo Message Number: 107012 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/107012)
While at the FMCA rally in Albany last week, I looked into the wax valve from Source Engineering and will be getting it installed sometime soon. Right now I don't have a problem but I know it will happen down the road, preventive maintenance.
Floyd 2006 Inspire 51744
Yahoo Message Number: 107013 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/107013)
Every time I read a thread about fan controller I wonder about mine.
I have the 425 HP ISL with the DPF. I have never been able to find the fan controller that many folks describe. Mine has what looks like a solenoid valve mounted to the fan motor. The guys at Cummins in Roanoke, VA said my fan was controlled by that valve and it got its 'instructions' from the engine ECM.
My fan starts at what seems to be high speed as soon as the engine is started. It seems to changed to an even higher speed if you turn on the dash AC. I have never run hot so I guess all is well but I've always wondered why the fan runs so fast on a cold engine at start up.
In 2014 the guys at CC said it was working as designed. I plan to ask the folks at OMC to confirm what I have when we get some service done there in October.
Gary
07 Allure 470 Siskiyou Summit, ISL 425
Yahoo Message Number: 107015 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/107015)
I have a 36 ft 2003 Allure with a Cummins 370 ISL engine. My coolant temperature as I recall stays between 195 and 205 degrees f. When the fan controller was in failure, and the fan was full on, the temp was 180 f and below, even in 90 degree weather.
I get close to 9 mpg on the road. Two years ago on a trip to and around Alaska (from Maryland), I got 9.0 mpg, including the ups and downs of the US West, the Western Canadian provinces and in Alaska. On freeways, I cruise at 62 mph, but for much of the trip in Canada and Alaska, the speeds probably averaged 50 to 55 depending on the road conditions. Note that we occasionally used our generator while camping and I have never factored out that fuel consumption. For some of the more technical folks in the group, I tow a 2009 Chev Malibu and maintain 120 psi in the front tires and 110 psi in the rear. The transmission is an Allison 3000 and I try to keep it in 6th gear. The wind resistance increase dramatically over 50 mph and I believe increases in an exponential manner. My guess if I cruised at 70 between Maryland and Florida, (fairly flat traveling) I would loose 1 to 2 mpg.
Dennis 36ft 2003 Allure #30884
Yahoo Message Number: 107020 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/107020)
Brian,
Thanks for the information on fuel savings.
My 2005 Inspire used to get 7.5 to 8 mpg but is now running 6.8 to 7 mpg and the fan seems to be running all the time. The temps are 185F most of the time probably limited by the engine thermostats.
I was hesitant to go with the wax valve due to the cost but it looks like it will pay for itself over a year or two.
Bob Cole
2005 Inspire 51394
Yahoo Message Number: 107021 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/107021)
Can you physically see the wax valve? I have a 08 Allure with the ISM 500 and don't have an overheating problem and I get 9 mpg. It's a relativity new coach for me so don't know about the wax valve? It does have a brass radiator and I have changed the fuel line CC used for some coolant lines. Any info on what to look for would be helpful!
Dennis 09 Allure 470
Yahoo Message Number: 107023 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/107023)
Don't think you have either. Mine is an 08 Allure and the engine ECM controls the fan speed according to Premier of Oregon. I asked them when I was making the purchase earlier this year.
Glad to be rid of the Sanfros controller.
Buddy Bordes 08 Allure 470 #31597
Yahoo Message Number: 107027 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/107027)
I recently got the fan controller working on my 2007 Inspire C9 and am enjoying almost 2 MPG better fuel mileage operating on flat highway on the prairie here in western Canada. More like 1 MPG in rolling hills and mountains because the fan runs on high a lot more when the engine is working. Also runs a few degrees warmer now when on low speed which is also a good thing for the engine and for better mileage.
Yahoo Message Number: 107034 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/107034)
I put switch on #84, verified voltage at danfoss went off with switch. Was able to push wire through one of the plastic split tubes below shift panel.
Wax valve being installed next week on new radiator. Driving through Colville Wa bolt came out of radiator shroud and hit fan blade, firing it into radiator. Broken fan blade and hole in radiator. Lawson Truck Repair brought water to refill system so I could drive to their shop. They went to work on it immediately. Parts are on order. Wax valve screws into radiator.
Ray Down
06 Inspire 51602
Yahoo Message Number: 107044 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/107044)
How does this control fan speed? As you point out, the fan defaults to high when power is removed.
My two cents.
I am on my 3rd controller and will be switching to the wax valve when this one dies, however I am on year 3 of this one so maybe they figured out how to make them more reliable? I was just starting for the summer when #2 died. Keeping the motor cool is not a problem but running around on high fan speed was unnecessary and not making friends in campgrounds with a dust storm following me.
I wanted to be able to stop the fan as you all know when the motor is cold or the day is cool , you do not need the fan. After all that is the primary reason for the controller in the first place.
I clipped one of the wires between the controller and the selenoid and added a switch from the drivers station.
The selenoid needs to be energized to stop the fan. Thats right folks, remove the 12V and it goes full blast.
I drove around 2 years manually controlling the fan and saving a ton of money on gas. The only drawback, was having to really pay attention to engine temps and yes, I did get a warning light a couple of times and why I finally gave in and replaced the controller again.
More food for thought. Over the years, I have listened to tips on how to keep the engine cool. I have replaced the rad and charge cooler. I have removed the monster rear mudflap. I installed a louvre on my engine hatch. I have a 16" electric fan ty wrapped to the rad grill which I controll, which is more for the dash air when stopped or slow speed in town. My fan does not run, repeat does not come on when the outside temperature is below 80 degrees. Otherwise, the fan controller does its job and switches on the fan when either the A/C or engine temps demands it. I toured all of Atlanic Canada one summer and the fan never came on. Of course this does not apply to Florida in the summer or or the southwest, but it stays off a heck of a long time until its needed.
Ed McManus......'02 Intrigue .....11361.....166,000 miles and running strong.
Yahoo Message Number: 107046 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/107046)
Ed,
From my understanding, and someone correct me if I'm wrong, the controller is all electronic. I think most people have the problem of the fan staying on at all times. The controller takes signals from the coolant temperature, intake temperature and a/c pressure to tell the hydraulic solinoid how much to open. This is sent from the controller by a PCM signal to the hydraulic solinoid. Fred Koval on this groupe made his own PCM solinoid driver. I think he purchased the driver on eBay and reprogrammed it using caps and a oscilloscope.
So it's not hard to get the fan to full speed, it takes some work to slow it down.....I'd get the wax valve.
Bill
Yahoo Message Number: 107047 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/107047)
Bill....you are not wrong. I did not say clip the wire going to the controller. I said one of the wires between the controller and the hydraulic solenoid. In other words the wire from the controller to the solenoid. I'm not suggesting this as a pernanant fix but as a stop gap to be able to finish ones summer trip without waiting for weeks for what can be a difficult part to procur or for that matter one that is programmed for your application. When I bought my bus 10 years ago, my controller had failed since day 1 and I not knowing any better ran around the whole season with a roaring fan. Then to rub salt in the wound, The Lazy Days mechanic ordered a new controller which was on back order only to find the controller was fine and it was the temperature sensor that was unplugged! Its sad when the owner turns out to be a better mechanic than the RV service department.
The same applies whenever you need work on your HWH slide or leveling system..My second failure was in Alaska where they have hundreds of gravel roads and I still have the rocks and stones to prove it. I had already said in my post that my next controller was to be the wax valve.
Ed McManus.....11361.......'02 Intrigue....400 ISL
Yahoo Message Number: 107049 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/107049)
Ed,
So your saying you fed the hydraulic solinoid with 12 volts to keep the fan off? If so I was going to try that as well. But after reading the controller fed the solinoid with a PCM signal I was afraid I'd damage the solinoid. I would then have to wait for a new controller/solinoid.
Good idea and glad it worked for you!
Bill
Yahoo Message Number: 107133 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/107133)