Yahoo Message Number: 111198 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/111198)
Hi all, my newest thoughts are how to use my house batteries as a booster to the chassis batteries. I have tried to use the switch on the drivers side, but it has never made a difference. The switch does have on indicator light, but it has never come on either. Any ideas on how to check for proper operation? Tom
2005 Inspire 51177
Yahoo Message Number: 111202 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/111202)
Tom,
Had the same problem several years ago. Found the boost solenoid had failed due to factory installation error. The manufacturer states the solenoid must be mounted in a vertical orientation. Factory had mounted it horizontally. The solenoid relies partially on gravity to operate properly and if mounted horizontally, it will eventually fail.
Dave
2000 Allure #30444
Yahoo Message Number: 111204 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/111204)
It is either a blown 400 amp T fuse or the battery boost solenoid. I bet it's the fuse. Check it with voltmeter, mine was in inverter compartment. Low or dying house batteries will blow the fuse when asked for power and voltage is low, causing high current flow.
Greg
06 Magna 6642
Yahoo Message Number: 111213 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/111213)
I had my boost solenoid fail just as Dave experienced.
Could be bad switch or bad boost solenoid. That switch along with the oil pressure switch activates the boost solenoid. If your house batteries stay fully charged while driving then the boost solenoid is working. If you haven't driven much or don't know if the house batteries stay charged while driving then you will need to check both.
On my coach, wire #178, a red 16 gage wire, on one of the small boost solenoid terminals goes to the boost switch and the oil pressure switch. These switches ground the coil terminal allowing the solenoid to close. Check the voltage on either side of the boost solenoid large terminals. One side will read chassis battery voltage and the other house battery voltage. They should be slightly different. Temporarily ground the red wire on the small terminal and see if the voltage on the two large terminals is the same. If not, then the solenoid is faulty.
If the voltage is the same then remove your temporary ground and have someone hold the boost switch. If the voltages at the large terminals aren't the same then the boost switch is not working.
You may hear the solenoid click when testing but that doesn't mean the switch contacts in the solenoid are working.
pete
2000 40' Magna CAT C-10 #5892
Yahoo Message Number: 111214 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/111214)
Not only did my 400 amp T fuse blow, it shorted out 1/2 of my engine DuVac alternator isolator (I think on older pre 97 CC's only?) which created a lot of problems to numerous to mention here. Not sure it is a good idea to use battery boost unless house batteries are in good shape.
Jim Kelso
95 Affinity 5295
Yahoo Message Number: 111217 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/111217)
A few thoughts:
You need to hold the booster switch for a bit of time, to let the juices flow from the house to the chassis enough to make a difference
One way to check if it is making a difference. Is to take a multimeter reading of the chassis voltage first. Then have some one hold the booster switch for say a minute, and then take another reading. (While they still hold the booster switch on.) and see if the voltage is higher.
If no change, then it's time to check the easy things like fuses first, then work your way to the switch itself and test it with a multimeter too. Looking for loose connections, or separated wires along the way:)!
Best of luck to you,
Smitty
04 Allure 31017
(Any chance you're involved with SOHO in the San Diego area?)