Yahoo Message Number: 8364 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/8364)
Our rear running (not clearance) lights are inop. All of them.
Break, backup, turn, and clearance lights are OK. I'm reduced to driving only in daylight for safety.
According to CC, there is nothing in the hot lead between the headlight switch and the tail (running) lights except a multi-pin connector in awire bundle. They think it's in the engine compartment, but they don't know exactly where. I've looked for it, but no joy. With the running light bulbs removed from their sockets, my meter shows both connection nubs in the socket bottom are grounded. (Oh, boy!)
I hope CC can find the fault in Tucson while I'm schmoozing with everybody. If they don't, my plan is to abandon the original wire in place, and run a new wire from the switch back to the running lights. Has anyone experienced this problem? It's just another bump in the road.
Claude and Judy,
1997 Affinity Grande Challet #5448, over 70,000 miles on the odometer so far.
Yahoo Message Number: 8373 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/8373)
Claude: I had an identical problem. CC couldn't solve it. With the help of one of my first-born son, we solved it up front under the dash access panel by jumping from the switches to the wiring going back to the rear of the coach. It was a mystery for which the factory had no answer.
I'm assuming you have checked the wiring harness leading to the towing lighting system. The factory pointed to it as the probable cause since there are no interruptions in the wiring from the dash access panel to the rear.
On my 99 Intrigue, the harness goes from its origin, accessed by removing the panel by the steps, down between the frame rails to the light system in the rear with no interruptions. We ultimately had to jump to them from the switches and install a breaker/fuse.
Bet you Fred Kovol has the answer. Fred....?
Larry
Intrigue
10762
See you in Tucson
Yahoo Message Number: 8374 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/8374)
-Hi Folks,
Wish I could help, but everthing is in the coach as we leave tonight heading back east. Best use the schematics for diagnostics and a good digital VOM (+12vdc can read like a ground when no voltage is present in lighting systems - don't be fooled).
Fred Kovol
Yahoo Message Number: 8381 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/8381)
Claude:
I trust Fred, if he sees your coach will help resolve the problem, but I would offer the following for consideration.
A while back I lost all my running lights ( not the clearance Lights) The ones in the big red housings where the break lights light up. That comprized 4 bulbs. The bare truth was that all 4 bulbs were bad. I can't say for sure if any were defective before I detected the problem or not.
Moving to another tact....you say the 2 nubs (I assume you mean the electrical contacts) are grounded. It would be interesting to understand what meter function you were using, voltage or resistance.
If you were using voltage,{Assuming the light switch or ICC switch were in the ON position} there should have been a nominal 12 volt reading. It would not be very advisable to have used the meter in the resistance or ohms position for fear of damaging the instrument. If in fact the circuit is totally grounded then the fuses for those lights will in all probability be blown. If (without the bulbs in place) a new fuse is installed it blows again, some where in the harness a wire has come in contact with the coach metal parts an is causing the grounding.
From the information provided with an Intrigue the headlight switch having 2 positions The first is running lights, followed in a second position of headlights on
There should be voltage at the sockets in the first position. Your coach may have more fixtures than mine but that is of no consequence.
The ICC signal switch should also light the running lights. Our diagram calls for fuse for both the headlights and the ICC switch sourse.
Depending on how your bulb sockets are wired and whethet you have single element or double element bulbs it would be normal for at least one of those nubs to be ground A single element bulb with 2 nubs does not use the brass part of the bulb for a connection. If however the bulb is 2 element(brake and running) then the brass part is ground and the 2 nubs are voltage sourse to light the bulb ....one for brake , one for running. I apologize if the explanation is too basic but I hope it is just a blown fuse.
There are spare wires built into the coach that might be considered but I for one would want to find the sourse of the problem.
I hope I may have been of some help--
James M. Green Intrigue 11021 Rollingghetto
- In Country-Coach-Owners@yahoogroups.com (Country-Coach-Owners@yahoogroups.com), "subsailor650" wrote:
Yahoo Message Number: 8383 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/8383)
Claude,
I had a similiar problem where the taillights and the dash lights would quit working. I used the CC wiring diagram to identify the wires to the lighting system. In my case it was two #11 wires that came off the headlight switch. I had 12 volts at the headlight switch (access under trans touchpad). I followed the #11 wires to a multi- pin connector located under the trans touchpad. I lost power in the multi-pin connector. I wired around it & solved the problem.
Hope this helps........
Steve
Intrigue #10673
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Yahoo Message Number: 8486 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/8486)
Steve touched on the trouble shooting process needed. Start at the power source with a volt meter. Check for power following the wirining to each of the connectoins in the system. Use the schematics as a guide. Remember that many of the schematics with CC could be different from what is actually installed in your coach.
Jim
2000 Allure #30511
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