Yahoo Message Number: 113251 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113251)
My sixteen-year-old rear penguin 15K heat pump will work perfectly on heat pump running as long as needed. On cool, however, it will start to cool but within a few minutes the compressor will shut down fan running, and then the whole thing will shut down and then the cycle starts all over again. Anyone know what could be causing this and what the fix is? Would seem to me the compressor is fine since it works on heat pump.
Rich 2002 Magna
Yahoo Message Number: 113252 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113252)
Reversing valve
Yahoo Message Number: 113253 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113253)
Hi Rich. My wife says I should elaborate
I believe you are saying that your heat pump works in the heating mode but shuts down when set to cool. Since the reversing valve rests in the heating mode and shifts when there is a call for cooling the valve may not be shifting all the way causing either high or possibly low pressure. Most heat pumps have pressure switches that will shut the unit down
I would suggest you have a qualified tech check it out but sometimes a gentle rap on the valve will unstick it
Darrell
Yahoo Message Number: 113254 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113254)
How many amps is it drawing, this might tell you if it's time to replace.
Alex
Yahoo Message Number: 113255 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113255)
Sounds like short cycling due to thermostat. Is cold air being blown directly on the temp sensor bulb of the thermostat?
Mikee
Yahoo Message Number: 113256 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113256)
Mikee I would normally agree short cycling but unless conditions have changed I wouldn't look there first
I know nothing specific about these heat pumps but normal heat pumps are equipment with automatic reset low and high pressure switches. As described it sounds like it is cycling on a pressure switch the next question is what is causing the condition heat pump operation is not something the average do it yourself er can diagnose. I would suggest a good tech. Not an automotive tech with a one week class on how to charge a system
Yahoo Message Number: 113257 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113257)
It draws around 12 amps. From reading these suggestions and doing a little research it sounds like it might be the reversing valve solenoid, which sounds pretty easy to replace. Or it's the reversing valve itself and then the unit is toast. The position of the thermostat etc. has nothing to do with it since nothing has changed.
Rich 2002 Magna
Yahoo Message Number: 113261 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113261)
Tap the reversing valve with a hammer.
Mikee
Yahoo Message Number: 113272 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113272)
Will do mikee as soon as I head south and get settled.
Rich
Yahoo Message Number: 113401 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113401)
Update: I'm in warm weather now. This old Penguin heat pump is actually cooling, drawing about 10 or 11 amps. But it shuts down after 5 or 10 minutes completely and then starts again. I presume then that the reversing valve is working? What I noticed is on my 5 button remote, when it shuts down, the little line at the bottom indicating the unit is active disappears as if the thermostat is no longer calling for cooling. Could this be the thermostat shutting it down? In other words a bad thermostat? Or will the roof unit shutting itself down make that line disappear? What is the usual cause of this shutdown restart problem? It does not seem to do it running on heat pump.
Rich 2002 Magna
Yahoo Message Number: 113404 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113404)
I'll try to assist you in trouble shooting your heat pump. First there are many things that can shut down your unit
Let's start with the cooling mode. When testing what is the outdoor temperature?
You say that the unit is drawing 10 to 11 amps. What is the name plate total amp draw show?
You say it is cooling so what is the temperature split? Should be 20 degrees
With that info we can start to diagnose the problem
Darrell
Yahoo Message Number: 113405 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113405)
It's a penguin 630516. It says compressor 12.0 RLA 10.5 on the label. Outside temperature is in the mid-60s. It will run seemingly indefinitely (it was getting too hot in here after half an hour) on heat pump mode. So I tested it further it got to the point where the compressor would not even come on in cooling mode where has it was for 5 or 6 minutes earlier pouring out cold air before it completely shut down.
Rich
Yahoo Message Number: 113407 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113407)
Very important to test the temperature split in the cooling mode. Are both the compressor and the fans shutting down after 5 of 6 mins? You can always bypass the thermostat by jumpering the low voltage wires. This would confirm the operation of the thermostat. If the unit still shuts down then we can look further
Yahoo Message Number: 113409 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113409)
Sounds like you need to clean the cable ends on the cable that connects the thermostat and unit.
Mikee
Yahoo Message Number: 113412 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113412)
Agree with Mikee - Sure would not hurt to clean the phone jack connections with electric cleaner. Do them all at the same time, and add it to your yearly maintenance cycle. I dab a Q-tip of dielectric goop on the male connection, before reinserting into the female. If the female is extremely moldy, just go ahead and replace it to ensure it does not foster a bad connection.
May not be your problem but for sure it would not hurt.
Best of luck to you, and will follow the thread until your root caused is determined:)!
Smitty
04 Allure 31017
Yahoo Message Number: 113418 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113418)
Here's exactly what the older, original rear unit did this morning: starts up, compressor cuts on, very cold air coming out. After about 2 or 3 minutes compressor shuts off fan continues to blow on high for 2 or 3 minutes, then it shuts down completely. After 3 or 4 minutes the cycle starts all over again. It will do this indefinitely.
The front unit occasionally goes into a fan only mode as well after cooling for a long time, then shuts down for a minute or so, but it starts back up again, but this unit will then run and cool for hours. When a unit shuts off, the thermostat indicator line for that zone shuts off. I will clean all the phone connections, but I doubt that's the problem.
Rich 2002 Magna
Yahoo Message Number: 113419 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113419)
Rich as I said it's imperative that you check the split temp supply air vs return air if it is 20 degrees you can probably rule out any compressor, air problem and low and high pressure controls. The fan sounds like it has a time delay relay on it so the most obvious problem sounds more like a control problem. Make sure no air is blowing on the thermostat sensor also make sure all thermostat and sensor connections are solid
Yahoo Message Number: 113421 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113421)
Rich two quick questions. Is the condenser fan and the indoor fan run off the same fan motor or are they separate. Secondly I am assuming the unit is using R 22 refrigerant
Darrell
Yahoo Message Number: 113422 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113422)
Darrel,
I'm not sure what the temperature split is but for the minutes that it runs it's very cold air coming out. As I said on heat pump it will continue to run and bake your ass off in here, so I don't see how it can be the compressor? If the compressor was bad why would it run on heat pump? I cleaned all the phone plug contacts it made no difference. The thermostat sensor in the bedroom is where it's been since the coach was manufactured. I will check its connection however. I guess it could be a control board as you're implying? Or the 5 button thermostat malfunctioning? Whatever it is, it can cause the unit to cycle as I have described. I don't know if the thermostat can do that or the board can do that or both.
Rich 2002 Magna
Yahoo Message Number: 113423 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113423)
One possibility is the run capacitor is shot or a loose/corroded power connection causing the motor to heat up and shutdown.
Ray
They say wine improves with age! As I enter my golden years, I say age improves with wine! The Born Loser
Yahoo Message Number: 113424 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113424)
Because the cooling signal and the heating signal run on different wires and circuits there is always a possibility of a bad circuit or wire.
The temp split is important because in a heat pump there is a thing called an accumulator. And there are separate metering devices for the coils depending on the mode. If you are not familiar with how a heat pump works it can be very confusing
When you make a statement that the supply air is VERY cold as a tech I immediately consider a low charge situation or a low volume of air both of which can cause the compressor to shut down in the cooling mode but not the heating mode
Yahoo Message Number: 113425 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113425)
Ray. Probably not capacitor since it runs fine in the heating mode
Darrell