Yahoo Message Number: 113279 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113279)
Yahoo Message Number: 113282 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113282)
Nice! I see three rivets across the middle. Was that it for rivets? Did you glue it? And then on the bottom step you wrapped it around the front very nicely. Did you continue underneath and rivet it below? How did you handle that?
Rich
Yahoo Message Number: 113285 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113285)
Rich,
Just a minimum of rivets. Whatever you feel is needed. They're easy to drill out and replace if the plate needs to be removed for some reason. No glue needed.
The simple 'L' bend on the lower step is flush with the bottom edge.
The old black non-skid stuff always looked crummy and tired. The plate looks classy and stays that way......even if it's a little soiled. Easy to wipe, hose or brush off.
The plate is around $50 at the big box stores. I've always felt the good looks was worth the effort.
Dave Trotter
01 Intrigue 11215
Yahoo Message Number: 113287 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113287)
Classy for sure. Is it not slippery when wet?
Jerry & Brenda Azzara
1999 Intrigue Chefs Delite
#10704
Yahoo Message Number: 113288 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113288)
Diamond plate is a non skid surface. That is what the raised diamonds are for, hence the name diamond plate.
Mikee
Yahoo Message Number: 113302 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/113302)
I now have the next project per DW. Looks nice. Thanks for posting.
Yahoo Message Number: 115403 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/115403)
How thick was the plate you used? I know it's "diamond plate" which is for non-skid but specifically how does it perform when the steps are wet? I ask as I live in Oregon and having wet steps is a fact of life.
The install looks fantastic! My steps are faded and in need of an update, if they maintain the "nonskid" when wet they look like a better solution than painting the steps and replacing the worn out non-skid tape.
Yahoo Message Number: 115404 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/115404)
Dan........The Diamond plate will make your step absolutely skid proof and will still look great 10 years from now.
Here is the text of an article that I wrote describing the Diamond Plate process that was published in the Dec. 2017 issue of the Country Coach Int'l. newsletter:
This dress-up project will give your Country Coach entry steps a non-slip fresh look that will stay that way for years.
Tools needed are minimal: A drill motor with a 1/8" bit and a pop rivet tool.
You will also need the use of a sheet metal brake.
The materials needed are: Six-1/8" diameter by 3/16" depth Stainless Steel pop rivets. I used stainless rivets because, of course, they won't rust and look nasty and they are also stronger than the aluminum ones. And, lastly, two-12" X 24" X .063" sheets of polished aluminum Diamond plate. They run $25 to $30 each at our local big box stores. Heavier or lighter gauges are available, but I found that the .063" thickness is just right.
Okay......The installation is simple. 12" X 24" is just the right size for the top step. I rounded the leading edge corners of the plate to about the diameter of a pencil for a more finished look. Also, I set the edge of the plate back about 1/2" from the face of the step. This allows a nice border of coach body color to remain visible and makes the flashy plate disappear from view when the step is closed. Now just center it, square it up, drill the holes and pop rivet it in place. I used 3 rivets centered laterally. You may want to use another pattern. Personal preference prevails.
Now then......the bottom step takes a little more work.
First, you'll need to bend a 7/8", 90 degree lip along one edge. The bend will look nicer if you allow just a very slight radius in the bend (to match the step) rather than a sharp, hard angle. If you don't have a sheet metal brake, find someone who does. Your local sheet metal contractor is a good place to start. Explain to them what you need and I'm sure they'll be happy to oblige. After the bend has been made, you'll need to cut the plate so that it is 10.75" deep and 24" wide. Whomever you found to do your bend probably also has a sheet metal shear to lop off the back edge. If not, and you find you'll have to do it yourself, a bandsaw, hacksaw or jig saw will work just fine. The cut edge will eventually be hidden out of view under the top step so don't fret too much about how it looks.
Now, all that remains is to position the plate properly and rivet it into place.
All done.
Here is a link to the aforementioned newsletter. Go to Page 12:
https://countrycoachclub.com/resources/Documents/December%202017%20eNews.pdf (https://countrycoachclub.com/resources/Documents/December%202017%20eNews.pdf)
Dave Trotter
01 Intrigue 11215