Yahoo Message Number: 114967 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/114967)
Our 1998 Country Coach Intrigue will not shut off.
Key out of ignition, still running.
The emergency red button in engine bay did not work.
Smothering air intake in last bay onpassenger side did not work.
Any ideas? James has the manual out and is trying to educate himself on Cummins egines on the fly.
Situation:
Stopped RV, turned off engine, went into restaurant. had excellent dinner. Returned to RV: engine did not catch right away (it ALWAYS does, until tonight).
James tried resetting breakers in last bay. Bus ignition then worked (coincidence?). Out onto I40W. Then had problems with acceleration. "gas" pedal felt loose - went all the way to floor. RV got up to speed, but lost momentum on hill (1st time for THAT). Pulled off at Flying J in Tucumcari NM. It's almost 11:00pm here.
At least we cann fuel up if we have to run engine all night until mechanic arrives.
James & Jaymalea Bray
1998 Country Coach Intrigue
#10636
Yahoo Message Number: 114968 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/114968)
As a last resort unscrewing the fuel filter will stop the flow of fuel and kill the engine. Not recommended, unless you have too.. it gets air into the fuel line.
Yahoo Message Number: 114969 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/114969)
we had to.
that was the only option remaining. tomorrow will be interesting when we try to start it up.
thank you,
jaymalea & james
Yahoo Message Number: 114972 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/114972)
I'm curious to know what the core problem is, when you figure it out.
If it like my 1998 Intrigue (#10661) the accelerator pedal is just an electronic component that sends a signal by wire to the throttle control on the engine - there is no mechanical connection between the two that can make the pedal feel loose or fall to the floor.
I can imagine a scenario where a problem with the pedal's electronics or variable resistor etc. could cause odd throttle behavior like you describe while driving; a similar thing happened to me last year and I needed to have the King Cruise module refurbished (BTW if you need it the place that does this is in Faribult, MN - http://www.cruisecontrolking.com (http://www.cruisecontrolking.com/)). But nothing with the accelerator or King Cruise control module should have anything to do with the engine difficult starting or not shutting off, especially via the emergency shutoff in the engine compartment. My guess is that is a whole separate problem, likely electrical.
If the throttle control and engine ignition/shutoff circuits in fact are somehow tied together, that would be well worth knowing! :o)
Mark M
Maple Grove, MN
1998 Intrigue #10661
Yahoo Message Number: 114973 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/114973)
Oh, the "losing momentum" or feeling of power loss might be because you pushed the emergency shutoff in the engine compartment. The way those usually work is they choke off the air intake, so once pressed the engine has little or no air intake - and thus no power - until the shutoff is reset. Yours might be sticking or have some electrical problem making it partially or fully closed.
Just stabbing in the dark here, but i would certainly have that checked out.
Mark M
Yahoo Message Number: 114974 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/114974)
Fuel solenoid can be Manuel's closed call me I've done it 9165997088
Robert McClernon
2000 Intrigue
Yahoo Message Number: 114975 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/country-coach-owners/conversations/messages/114975)
I am currently having a similar problem but have dealt before with the issue on my Cummins C8.3L engine.
1. To get your engine to shut off, reach into the passenger side of the engine just below the Fuel Shutdown Solenoid.
2. The rod that retracts and pulls up on the fuel delivery gear to start and run the engine should be visible.
3. Try to push the gear lever down or towards the front of the rig.
4. That should kill the engine.
5. I am currently using a wire tie to pull the gear forward and manually force the rod up into the fuel solenoid envelope (normally done by magnets powered by the ignition switch for start and run) to prepare the engine to start.
Repeat steps 1 - 4 to shut off the engine. I also do not let the engine run unless the ignition key is in the run position. Turn the key off last.