Yahoo Message Number: 14036 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/14036)
I might suggest that you take a look in the files section for the information sheet on the adjustments I posted last year. I have changed both rear ride height valves and the new replacements required some adjustment to get the results of the CC specifications.
Jim Hughes
2000 Allure #30511
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Yahoo Message Number: 14043 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/14043)
CAUTION CAUTION CAUTION Ride Height Valve Replacement
Use the valves at the front of the coach to dump all air from the system before you get under the coach. If the system has air the air bags may be partially inflated (raising the coach)and when you disconnect the air line all air will excape (lowering the coach to the frame bumpers inside the air bags).
You do not want to be under the coach when the air evacuates if the few inches the coach lowers is below your body height. In this case the coach would win.
If you can work under the coach with all air evacuated then you don't have to worry. If you cannot then DON'T DO IT.
The lucky guys have a pit they can get in and easily work on the coach while it is lowered. I have seen comments about those that have done it while having two wheels up on a curb.
Bottom line you don't want your body to become a jack stand. It is not designed to hold up the 30k to 40k lbs weight of the coach.
Regarding replacement -- if you have the plastic valves they should definitely be replaced with the metal ones in my opionion. I understand CC has the metal available for $117.00. In an emergency I had to buy the Haldex metal at Lazy Dayz in Tampa (Seffner) and the cost is $179.00.
I did find a Euclid replacement that is mostly metal @ $149.00 in Orlando but decided to go with the Haldex which is what I understand CC now uses.
Joey
1998 Intrigue 10540
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