Country Coach Restoration, Repair & Parts Forums => Country Coach Archive => Topic started by: Larry F on April 03, 2005, 08:13:29 pm
Title: The saga of the non-retracting step cover
Post by: Larry F on April 03, 2005, 08:13:29 pm
Yahoo Message Number: 15968 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/15968)Well, as I reported in a previous post, I thought I had my step cover fixed, but it started acting up on me again. I previously changed the switch, and a few wire connectors going to the switch. It used to work intermitently, but now it won't retract at all. This happened (permenently broke) after I played with some wires down around the motor. I took the motor out, but didn't see anything obvious. I guess if the motor works to extend the step cover, then it must be OK. I'm wondering about the limit switch located inside the rail in the electrical bay. I think this switch is the one that would prevent the step cover from retracting. It apparently shuts off the motor when the cover has reached it's retracted limit. Hence, maybe it's stuck in the off position. I think the extended side of the system is electrically independent from the retraction side. I sent CC an email for assistance and since I don't have one, I asked if they could send me the wiring diagram for this system. As previously suggested here, I also tried applying force on the step cover while activating the switch, but it still didn't work. If anyone has some revelations on this problem, I would be happy to listen. Thanks.
Larry, Debbie, Tiki and Tomi (Pugs) USAF Retired
2003 Allure #30856
Title: Re: The saga of the non-retracting step cover
Post by: Lyle Wetherholt on April 03, 2005, 08:31:49 pm
You are correct in your analysis of the operation. Mounted on the rail is a metal, oblong, black bubble which houses some wire connections. At one point, one wire is connected to two with one of those plastic crimp connecters. This is where I found the problem. These wires go to the limit switches I believe. Anyway, lousy connections result in intermittent operation. Suggest you check further.
Lyle Wetherholt 04 Intrigue 11740
Title: Re: The saga of the non-retracting step cover
Post by: Travman100_4 on April 03, 2005, 09:00:40 pm
Not sure if the 03 is same as 00 but the print on mine shows the actuator and switch as one unit with a description that indicates it travels 24 inches. It appears that the stop switch is an integral part of the actuator on the diagram number S0573 which is included with my coach.
It shows four wires running from switch to actuator, two for each direction (a + and a - wire I believe. Wire numbers are: (1) #385 (red) this connects to a white wire on the actuator (2) #388 (yellow) which connects to blk/red on the actuator (3) #386 (blue) connects to red on the actuator (4) #387 (black) connects to black on the actuator These four wires go from the the cover switch through Plug SS to the connections on the actuator.
The actuator with stop switch CC part number is 14699, not sure this is same as yours or not but hope this helps.
Ray
Quote from: Larry Feather
>
Well, as I reported in a previous post, I thought I had my step > cover fixed, but it started acting up on me again. I previously > changed the switch, and a few wire connectors going to the
switch.
Quote
It used to work intermitently, but now it won't retract at all. This happened (permenently broke) after I played with some wires > down around the motor. I took the motor out, but didn't see > anything obvious. I guess if the motor works to extend the step > cover, then it must be OK. I'm wondering about the limit switch > located inside the rail in the electrical bay. I think this
switch
Quote
is the one that would prevent the step cover from retracting. It > apparently shuts off the motor when the cover has reached it's > retracted limit. Hence, maybe it's stuck in the off position. I > think the extended side of the system is electrically independent > from the retraction side. I sent CC an email for assistance and > since I don't have one, I asked if they could send me the wiring > diagram for this system. As previously suggested here, I also
tried
Quote
applying force on the step cover while activating the switch, but
it
Quote
still didn't work. If anyone has some revelations on this
problem,
Title: Re: The saga of the non-retracting step cover
Post by: Larry F on April 04, 2005, 01:21:44 pm
Yahoo Message Number: 15984 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/15984)Thanks Lylewet and Tavman100
Yes I played with the wires in the "black bubble" box on the rail. Those connections looked pretty squirrelly. The one that had two wires into one gave me some problems. I accidentally pulled the yellow wire from the motor loose from that connector. This is the ground wire that goes directly into the motor. I couldn't satisfactorily reconnect it the connector, so I just grounded it to the frame with one of the black bubble screws. My short arms are really stretching under there to work in that area. Hard to get two hands stretched out that far. Need to figure out a way to get a meter on those wires. Travman100 gave me some good info on wire numbers, so maybe I can go from there. Might get a diagram from CC too. Sounds like I may have to revisit the black bubble where all the wires go to. It just didn't look too healthy in there and since that's where Lylewet had his problem, I'm convinced to go back to it. That box is a bear to reinstall if the motor is in. I had to take out the motor just so I could line up the screws with the holes. Thanks again for all the help.
Larry, Debbie, Tiki and Tomi (Pugs) USAF Retired
2003 Allure #30856
Quote from: Lyle Wetherholt
>
[quote author=Larry Feather"
Larry,
You are correct in your analysis of the operation. Mounted on the > rail is a metal, oblong, black bubble which houses some wire > connections. At one point, one wire is connected to two with one of > those plastic crimp connecters. This is where I found the problem. These wires go to the limit switches I believe. Anyway, lousy > connections result in intermittent operation. Suggest you check
further.
Quote
Lyle Wetherholt 04 Intrigue 11740 >
> Well, as I reported in a previous post, I thought I had my step > > cover fixed, but it started acting up on me again. I previously > > changed the switch, and a few wire connectors going to the
switch.
Quote
It used to work intermitently, but now it won't retract at all. > This happened (permenently broke) after I played with some wires > > down around the motor. I took the motor out, but didn't see > > anything obvious. I guess if the motor works to extend the step > > cover, then it must be OK. I'm wondering about the limit switch > > located inside the rail in the electrical bay. I think this
switch
Quote
is the one that would prevent the step cover from retracting. It > > apparently shuts off the motor when the cover has reached it's > > retracted limit. Hence, maybe it's stuck in the off position. I > > think the extended side of the system is electrically independent > > from the retraction side. I sent CC an email for assistance and > > since I don't have one, I asked if they could send me the wiring > > diagram for this system. As previously suggested here, I also
tried
Quote
applying force on the step cover while activating the switch, but
it
Quote
still didn't work. If anyone has some revelations on this
problem,
Title: Re: The saga of the non-retracting step cover
Post by: Lyle Wetherholt on April 04, 2005, 02:49:31 pm
You may find it a lot easier to work on if you just remove the whole assembly. Cut the wires up high if you remove the assembly. This will give you long ends to work on under the coach and you won't have to reach so far. Then connect one end of a four pin trailer wiring plug to that end. When the assembly is on the bench connect the other end of the four pin plug to the wires exiting the assembly. This will permit easy re-installation. While on the bench you can re-do the crimp connectors with a more satisfactory connection. The whole job took us about 1.5 hours.
Lyle Wetherholt 04 Intrigue 11740
Title: Re: The saga of the non-retracting step cover
Post by: Larry F on April 05, 2005, 12:37:52 pm
When you're talking about removing the whole assembly, are you talking about the motor and gear assembly, or are you talking that and the limit switches too? If I cut the wires "high", it sounds like you're talking about next to the rail where the bubble box is. I must be missing something because it sounds like that would leave me high wires to work with hanging from inside the rail. Maybe my coach is different than yours. I like your idea of using a trailer plug. I got a WD from CC (S0573)dated 10-11-04 but the effectivity (starting with #11883)does not apply to my coach #30856. It shows a black wire and a white wire going to one of the limit swithces, and a red wire and a black/red wire going to the other limit switch. With the orientation of the drawing, it's not abvious to me which limit switch is for closing and opening. I also asked CC via email if they could verify the drawing they sent me applies to my coach. I'm going out of town tomorrow and will be back this weekend to attack this problem again. Thanks for all your help
Quote from: Lyle Wetherholt
>
[quote author=Larry Feather"
Larry,
You may find it a lot easier to work on if you just remove the whole > assembly. Cut the wires up high if you remove the assembly. This > will give you long ends to work on under the coach and you won't
have
Quote
to reach so far. Then connect one end of a four pin trailer wiring > plug to that end. When the assembly is on the bench connect the
other
Quote
end of the four pin plug to the wires exiting the assembly. This
will
Quote
permit easy re-installation. While on the bench you can re-do the > crimp connectors with a more satisfactory connection. The whole job > took us about 1.5 hours. Lyle Wetherholt 04 Intrigue 11740 >
> Thanks Lylewet and Tavman100 >
> Yes I played with the wires in the "black bubble" box on the
rail.
Quote
Those connections looked pretty squirrelly. The one that had two > > wires into one gave me some problems. I accidentally pulled the > > yellow wire from the motor loose from that connector. This is
the
Quote
ground wire that goes directly into the motor. I couldn't > > satisfactorily reconnect it the connector, so I just grounded it
to
Quote
the frame with one of the black bubble screws. My short arms are > > really stretching under there to work in that area. Hard to get
two
Quote
hands stretched out that far. Need to figure out a way to get a > > meter on those wires. Travman100 gave me some good info on wire > > numbers, so maybe I can go from there. Might get a diagram from
CC
Quote
too. Sounds like I may have to revisit the black bubble where
all
Quote
the wires go to. It just didn't look too healthy in there and
since
Quote
that's where Lylewet had his problem, I'm convinced to go back to > > it. That box is a bear to reinstall if the motor is in. I had
to
Quote
take out the motor just so I could line up the screws with the
holes.
Quote
Thanks again for all the help. >
> Larry, Debbie, Tiki and Tomi (Pugs) > > USAF Retired
> 2003 Allure #30856 > > > > >
[quote author=Lyle Wetherholt" >] > > > >
[quote author=Larry Feather" > >] > > Larry,
> > You are correct in your analysis of the operation. Mounted on
the
Quote
> rail is a metal, oblong, black bubble which houses some wire > > > connections. At one point, one wire is connected to two with
one of
Quote
> those plastic crimp connecters. This is where I found the
problem.
Quote
> These wires go to the limit switches I believe. Anyway, lousy > > > connections result in intermittent operation. Suggest you
Not that high! If your assenbly is like mine it will all come out as one unit. The motor is attached to the rail and limit switches are inside the rail. The point of cuting somewhat high is to leave plenty of length on the other end to make it easy to wire in the trailer plug. When you have the assembly out and on the bench it is easy to attach the other end of the plug. Leave enough room for that process. Again, the rail, motor, worm screw etc. is all one assembly. If you look up and to the right of the wires you will see a black steel plate about 10 inches wide and 16 inches long. It is attached with a few bolts. Upon removing it you will see the end that connects to the stair cover. It all comes apart quite easily. The only difficult part is the other end which is in the elec bay (front left) where you have to demount the fuse box and let it hang loose while you remove the bulkhead that the rail passes through. If you pass thru Las Cruces I will be happy to review things with you.
Lyle Wetherholt 04 Intrigue 11740
Title: Re: The saga of the non-retracting step cover
Post by: Larry F on April 05, 2005, 08:19:52 pm
OK, I get it now! Thanks for the clarification! I was wondering about the bulkhead in the electrical bay. Wasn't sure I should remove that because of the fuse box. And, mine hase sealent on the front part of the bulkhead, but I guess I can cut that out. I might be able to get to whatever I need there without taking out the rail. But it doesent look that hard any way. Thanks so much for your help. I'll let you know how it all turns out.
Larry, Debbie, Tiki and Tomi (Pugs) USAF Retired
2003 Allure #30856
Quote from: Lyle Wetherholt
>
Quote from: Larry Feather"
Larry,
Not that high! If your assenbly is like mine it will all come out [/quote
ll come out
as
Quote
one unit. The motor is attached to the rail and limit switches are > inside the rail. The point of cuting somewhat high is to leave
plenty
Quote
of length on the other end to make it easy to wire in the trailer > plug. When you have the assembly out and on the bench it is easy
to
Quote
attach the other end of the plug. Leave enough room for that
process.
Quote
Again, the rail, motor, worm screw etc. is all one assembly. If
you
Quote
look up and to the right of the wires you will see a black steel
plate
Quote
about 10 inches wide and 16 inches long. It is attached with a few > bolts. Upon removing it you will see the end that connects to the > stair cover. It all comes apart quite easily. The only difficult > part is the other end which is in the elec bay (front left) where
you
Quote
have to demount the fuse box and let it hang loose while you remove > the bulkhead that the rail passes through. If you pass thru Las > Cruces I will be happy to review things with you. Lyle Wetherholt 04 Intrigue 11740 >
> Lyle >
> When you're talking about removing the whole assembly, are you > > talking about the motor and gear assembly, or are you talking
that
Quote
and the limit switches too? If I cut the wires "high", it
sounds
Quote
like you're talking about next to the rail where the bubble box
is.
Quote
I must be missing something because it sounds like that would
leave
Quote
me high wires to work with hanging from inside the rail. Maybe
my
Quote
coach is different than yours. I like your idea of using a
trailer
Quote
plug. I got a WD from CC (S0573)dated 10-11-04 but the
effectivity
Quote
(starting with #11883)does not apply to my coach #30856. It
shows a
Quote
black wire and a white wire going to one of the limit swithces,
and a
Quote
red wire and a black/red wire going to the other limit switch.
With
Quote
the orientation of the drawing, it's not abvious to me which
limit
Quote
switch is for closing and opening. I also asked CC via email if
they
Quote
could verify the drawing they sent me applies to my coach. I'm
going
Quote
out of town tomorrow and will be back this weekend to attack
this
Quote
problem again. Thanks for all your help > > > >
[quote author=Lyle Wetherholt" >] > > > >
[quote author=Larry Feather" > >] > > Larry,
> > You may find it a lot easier to work on if you just remove the
whole
Quote
> assembly. Cut the wires up high if you remove the assembly.
This
Quote
> will give you long ends to work on under the coach and you
won't
Quote
have
> > to reach so far. Then connect one end of a four pin trailer
wiring
Quote
> plug to that end. When the assembly is on the bench connect
the
Quote
other
> > end of the four pin plug to the wires exiting the assembly.
This
Quote
will
> > permit easy re-installation. While on the bench you can re-do
the
Quote
> crimp connectors with a more satisfactory connection. The
whole job
Quote
> took us about 1.5 hours. > > Lyle Wetherholt > > 04 Intrigue 11740 > > >
> > > Thanks Lylewet and Tavman100 > > > >
> > > Yes I played with the wires in the "black bubble" box on the > > rail.
> > > Those connections looked pretty squirrelly. The one that
had two
Quote
> > wires into one gave me some problems. I accidentally pulled
the
Quote
> > yellow wire from the motor loose from that connector. This
is
Quote
the
> > > ground wire that goes directly into the motor. I couldn't > > > > satisfactorily reconnect it the connector, so I just
grounded it
Quote
to
> > > the frame with one of the black bubble screws. My short
arms are
Quote
> > really stretching under there to work in that area. Hard to
get
Quote
two
> > > hands stretched out that far. Need to figure out a way to
get a
Quote
> > meter on those wires. Travman100 gave me some good info on
wire
Quote
> > numbers, so maybe I can go from there. Might get a diagram
from
Quote
CC
> > > too. Sounds like I may have to revisit the black bubble
where
Quote
all
> > > the wires go to. It just didn't look too healthy in there
and
Quote
since
> > > that's where Lylewet had his problem, I'm convinced to go
back to
Quote
> > it. That box is a bear to reinstall if the motor is in. I
had
Quote
to
> > > take out the motor just so I could line up the screws with
the
Quote
holes.
> > > Thanks again for all the help. > > >
> > > Larry, Debbie, Tiki and Tomi (Pugs) > > > > USAF Retired