Yahoo Message Number: 21226 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/21226)
We just purchased a 1998 32' Allure, and it has a problem with electrolysis on the entry door. I have found out that this has been a problem on some coaches. How is this issue resolved?
Thanks for the help.
dave
Yahoo Message Number: 21233 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/21233)
Dave:
Forget panicing and such gratuitous ---and meaningless advice. The CC coaches over a period of time had a real problem with electrolysis on the passenger door---I know because I own one. I've also had the problem with airplanes I've owned. As you may know, the electrolytic action occurs between the face of the metal and the underside of the paint---and despite the "don't panic" advice---generally continues until appropriately treated. Parenthetically, the process may go slowly until there is a break in the covering paint-film; then it goes like heck. When I first noticed mine, I thought it was a fleck in the paint: and in examining it, I broke the paint cover. In a very short time, I had a line of HOLES across the width of the door. I had a first class paint shop repair/repaint the metal, only to discover a few months later havetook the
All best rog
Yahoo Message Number: 21234 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/21234)
Dave
I hit the wrong key and sent the message early.
I was saying that my electrolytic problem re-occured.
A friend, an old submariner, told me that it was a common problem on the U-boats and that the solution was to clean down to the raw metal, do the necessary repair, then paint the whole area with ZINC CHROMATE as a primer, then do the finish painting. Two plus years later, no recurrance. rog
All best rog
Yahoo Message Number: 21237 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/21237)
Electrolytic problem have been very common on the post 2000 coaches.
As for the best painting procedure, always start with the very best surface prep.
You can use the worlds best paint over a bad prep and it will still fail. But a common paint will last if the surface is cleaned properly.
Zinc chromate has and will be the best compound for corrosion prevention. Simple chemistry. Bare metal should be prepped with a zinc chromate vinyl wash primer. This is to give the very best adhesion and corrosion protection. Second, a zinc chromate two component epoxy. Glidden had the best, Glid Guard. I believe it is now off the market, might still be able to find it. The other option is a zinc rich primer. This contains about 80% zinc powder, often in a three part epoxy primer.
Zinc acts sacrificial and saves the metal substrate. Just like the anode some people put in their water heaters to prevent corrosion. Hummm Hope this helps.
Ole paint chemist, Steve
95 Magna 5220
Yahoo Message Number: 21242 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/21242)
Thanks to all who have taken time to answer my post. Evidence of the problem is not great, but it's there. With all the help from you guys and the other posts I've found on the topic, I now know how to resolve the issue.
Many thanks to all.
dave
Yahoo Message Number: 21278 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/21278)
CC fixed my a couple of years back, actually they sent it out to Guarantee RV in Junction City . I would trade the fix for the original problem. I now have a creeping seal in the door window...didn't have that before they removed the door, tore it apart and replaced the metal face with a vinyl materials. The trim piece on the middle of the door is also coming loose as a result of the fix. The good news is that the vinyl doesn't show any evidence of the orginal electroylsis problem.
Does anyone have any idea of how all this can be fixed without removing the door and disassembling it. Is that trim piece affixed with adhesive or screws?
Ray
2000 Intrigue 11040
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