Yahoo Message Number: 59722 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/59722)
For those of you who have the Headhunter toilet, here's a heads up.
If you look in the toilet installation manual on page 14 you will see a part called the "Vented Loop" (labeled on the drawing as Key #8). This vented loop has a cap on it which you can unscrew---if you can get enough clearance without unbolting the toilet from the floor. Beneath that is a "diaphragm" or "o-ring" which Headhunter technical support says needs to be replaced "every few years". You know when it needs replacement when water starts leaking from under this cap and running down the connected PVC pipe to the floor. The leak is minimal, probably no more than 1/2 teaspoon each time you flush the toilet. According to Headhunter technical support it is very easy to replace this part, the problem is usually getting enough access to actually unscrew the cap. This part (the diaphragm) is fairly inexpensive (for a Headhunter part) at about $15 plus shipping.
My problem is going to be access. The top cap is wedged between the back of the toilet and the wall, so I can only get a hold of the cap with my thumb on one side and two fingertips 180* from my thumb. It looks like the toilet will have to be unbolted from the floor and moved slightly in order to get a significant enough grip on the cap to unscrew it. Hopefully that will give me enough room to work without having to unattach the incoming fresh water line and the outgoing waste line.
I've never seen this subject on the owners' group before, so thought I would post this for any and everyone's future reference.
Brian Davis
2005 42' Intrigue OVTS
Coach #11901
Yahoo Message Number: 59740 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/59740)
I have absolutely no idea what this cap looks like, but, is there any way to epoxy a hex-head from a bolt to the top (cut off an appropriate size head) and then use a socket wrench?
Mike Cebula
'95 Magna 5266
Yahoo Message Number: 62111 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/62111)
Is there anyone out there who is very familiar with the Headhunter Toilet used in the 2005 Intrigues? I am pretty darn familiar with the system, but still have questions. The written instructions that I received from Country Coach, Inc. as well as the installation instructions provided by Headhunter themselves instruct you to set the pre-charge pressure of the accumulator tank at 4 psi lower than the cut-in pressure of the coach's water pump. I have explicit, detailed instructions on how to do this, so doing it is not a problem. My question is what are the ramifications if the pre-charge pressure is higher than the stated 4 psi lower than the cut-in pressure of the water pump? For instance, if the pre-charge pressure is 50 psi and the cut-in pressure is 42 psi (meaning the pre-charge pressure should be 38 psi)? Also, what are the ramifications if the pre-charge pressure is lower than it should be? In the above example, let's say the pre-charge pressure is 30 psi when 38 psi is called for. Any answers out there??
Brian Davis
'05 Intrigue OVTS
Coach #11901
Yahoo Message Number: 62112 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/62112)
From my experience, the precharge pressure should be at or 2 lobs above the cut in pressure. Works well for the head hunter toilet.
Mikee
Yahoo Message Number: 62113 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/62113)
Hi Mikee,
What is a "lob"?
Do you have experience with the Headhunter in particular or just accumulator tanks in general? The instructions I have are very, very specific about the 4 psi differential.
Brian
Yahoo Message Number: 62117 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/62117)
mikes
Yahoo Message Number: 62124 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/62124)
lob is fat finger typing. It was supposed to be lb.
It is not rocket science, the difference between 2 and 4 above cut in pressure is small. 40 vs 42 as an example. Use either one you like. I do have experience with the headhunter.
Mikee
Yahoo Message Number: 62125 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/62125)
Mikee,
You are saying the precharge pressure should be set to 2 lb ABOVE the cut-in pressure. The instructions I have say 4 lb BELOW the cut-in pressure. Did you mean 2 lb BELOW the cut-in pressure?
Brian
Yahoo Message Number: 62128 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/62128)
Brian,
The purpose of the accumulator tank is to keep the pump from coming on if you only draw a small amount of water from a spigot. It helps to prevent short cycling of the water pump. When the precharge pressure is just above the cut in pressure the tank will be empty when the pump comes on, thus letting the pump run as long as possible. If you set the precharge pressure below the cut in the tank will never empty, thus reducing the effective capacity or volume of the tank.
This is my reasoning for setting it just above cut in pressure.
All of that being said, do you have the headhunter pump as well as the headhunter toilet? If so, the pump comes on instantly anytime the toilet is flushed. Headhunter uses a separate line to the toilet directly from their pump controlled by a solenoid. The only downside to their setup is water consumption. The headhunter system was originally designed for boats with overboard discharge.
Mikee
Yahoo Message Number: 62138 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/62138)
Mikee,
The accumulator tank is dedicated specifically AND ONLY to the Headhunter Toilet. It has nothing to do with the rest of the fresh water system. I know the purpose of the typical accumulator tank in a fresh water system and this ain't that. The water pump comes on the minute water is called for at any of the faucets (sink or the two lavatories). The purpose of the accumulator tank in this particular application is to provide a high pressure jet of water (somewhat like a super-venturi) tp push the toileted materials through eight feet of 3" pipe taking seven 90* turns before entering the blank tank.
I do not have the Headhunter pump.
Brian
Yahoo Message Number: 62140 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/62140)
Okay, in cases where the headhunter pump is not used they are using the tank to create a high water flow to, like you said move the waste, Precharging to +2 or -4 or anywhere in between will not make much if any difference, as the tank should empty pretty quick, If charged to 0 or +2 you will get the benefit of the tanks entire contents, Try it both ways and see what seems to work better. In installations where the headhunter pump is used it is a 120 volt pump, actually it is a shallow well pump. You say the tank is dedicated to the toilet, is there a check valve in the supply to the toilet to prevent the tank from "helping" the rest of the system?
Mikee
Yahoo Message Number: 62141 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/62141)
There must be a check valve or something because I can watch the pressure gauge on the accumulator tank and it doesn't move when water is called for any place except the toilet flushing operation. Additionally, as I said before, if you turn on any faucet, the water pump begins immediately, not after the accumulator tank has emptied.
In all this discussion, we have gotten away from my original question, which was, "What are the results (ramifications) if the pre-charge pressure is significantly different than what Headhunter's and Country Coach's written instructions call for, i.e., 4 psi less than the cut-in pressure of the water pump?"
thanks,
Brian
Yahoo Message Number: 62145 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/62145)
The short answer is as long as it is close it is fine.
Mikee