Yahoo Message Number: 26246 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/26246)
Mike, my 2 cents worth.
Everything has to be completely dry, not even damp!
A good white polyurethane caulk such as Sika 15 lm or Vulkem 116 will do a very good job, these are about the same consistancy as peanut butter. Flow type caulks tend to drain thin on high spots and are hard to control. You should look in the yellow pages for a sealant distributor or contractor, as these are for professional use only, expect to pay about $8 to $10 per tube, you will only need a couple of tubes. I have seen the vulkem 116 at some Home Depot stores.
70% of the job is removing the old sealant and cleaning the area.
Tape the edges with masking tape about 3/8" wide of the old caulk lines to get a bond on a new area of roof. Use a round ended tool such as an old table knife to smooth the caulking after laying down a bead, try to end up with it about 1/4" thick, then pull the tape while it is still fresh.
I was a caulking contractor for 25 years and that is how I would fix mine.
Chris Bradley.
Affinity 3952
cause all of the water to run to one corner. I then pull the caulking out and slid a small screw driver between the two layers to let the water drain. You need self leveling caulk that is sold at Camping World and by CC parts. I really like the caulk that CC sells!
98 Intrigue. We have developed a leak in the roof around the shower dome. We temporarily patched the leak with some Dap elastometric (sp?) caulk. Does anyone know the right type of caulk to use?
do we remove it?
Small Business.