Yahoo Message Number: 1685 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/1685)
For those who would like a oil pressure switch indicator, the attached picture is one approach.
I used a Radio Shack red led assy p/n 276-084A and added a 8 inch pigtail and then mounted it in a drilled hole in the cup holder. When the led is lit, the pressure switch is open (engine not running).
About 3 sec after the engine is started, the led extinguishes indicating the sw is closed and the battery boost relay is closed connecting the domestic batteries to the chassis (starting) battery which are connected to the alternator. re: drawings #S0478.04 and #S0699 (foldout)
The red pigtail lead of the led is connected to wire 178 and the black to gnd (green) at the boost switch on the left console control panels. The switch assys (group of 3) can be easily popped up to expose the wires. Observe the connection of lugs on wires 178 and ground (gnd)on the rear of the boost switch, remove the lugs, slip end of wire from led pigtail wires (red on 178, black on gnd (green)) and reattach lugs to switch terminals.
Fred Kovol
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness http://health.yahoo.com (http://health.yahoo.com)
Yahoo Message Number: 1686 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/1686)
Fred,
A simple, yet elegant solution! One that CC should consider as std equipment. I love it!
Bill
'95 Intrique #10005
Yahoo Message Number: 1690 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/1690)
Nice one Fred.
Peter
Britannia Inc.
800-274-5245
Yahoo Message Number: 1715 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/1715)
Fred:
I completed the indicator light installation this evening. It functions as described. I was concerned however that it stays lit all the time the engine is not running. To ease my concern I measured the current drain. 18 milliampers at 13 volts. This is not enough to worry about. After the LED in the Panasonic radio stays on all the time.
In studying the schematics I was a bit surprised to discover just how many circuits are not disengaged when the disconnects are turned off.
I also was surprised to see the coach and domestic batteries paralleled all the time the engine is running. I did not notice diode separation. Perhaps I should look harder Thank you for the effort you put in figuring out this simple approach of determining that the combiner solenoid is activated. A quick test of the LED, of coarse, is to punch the battery combiner switch.
Jim Green Coach Intrigue 11021 36' Galley's Open
fred kovol wrote:
Yahoo Message Number: 1719 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/1719)
Hi James,
Glad you liked the approach. I intend to use that cup holder for more indicators. Think about all the light switch leds light continously @ 15 ma each. I have a long list of items not addressed in the ops and users manuals: vacuum pump use and maintenance, all the valves listed in air system maintenance schedule - where are they, 4.3 and 4.4.1 (air dryer and D18 tank inspections)- where are those drain cocks and valves - not to be confused with 4.4. - just to name a few.
Fred Kovol
--- "James M. Green" wb3dju@...> wrote:
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness http://health.yahoo.com (http://health.yahoo.com)
Yahoo Message Number: 1720 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/1720)
The light to indicate house battery charging,(oil press switch working correctly),is good, also, a $10 volt meter from camping world plugged into the cig lighter(house batt) will give you current volts on the house batt(watch bulk charge to float charge) .
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness http://health.yahoo.com (http://health.yahoo.com)
Yahoo Message Number: 1727 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/1727)
OK.... now I'm somewhat confused. I understand the indicator light. But until I install the light, what is the indication that the house batteries are not being charged? The alternator is putting out the correct voltage (13.8 of so) but after being on the road for a SHORT while my batteries are at 85%... give or take.
That tells me that there is no charging taking place. Is there anything else to look at? Or is the only option to go to CC?
Dick May
2002 Intrigue, #11438
Member: CCI, FMCA
Yahoo Message Number: 1729 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/1729)
Hi Dick,
Try this: With the engine running, measure the voltage at the terminals of the chasis (engine start) battery and the domestic (house) batteries. They should be the same (the 13.8 vdc you measured). If they are not, then the contactor(battery boost relay - circle 20 in the #S0699 foldout schematic) is suspect.
If they are the same, chances are the batteries - one are both need maintenance or replacement.
Fred Kovol
--- MayMR maymr@...> wrote:
Yahoo Message Number: 1731 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/1731)
If I could throw my two cents in here, when I had this problem I talked with CC and they told me that even though you might measure similiar voltages on either side of that contactor (solenoid), the contacts may eroded enough that not enough current will pass to adequately charge.
If you use a very sensitive voltage meter, and the contactor is bad, you will probably see a slight voltage difference. In my case, my oil pressure send switch was stuck in the closed position, meaning that contactor would always be on. Im thinking that constant current might have fried the contacts enough to not allow sufficient charging. Anyway, at the recommendation of CC, I replaced both the oil sensor and contactor and it seems to be fine. it can be deceiving.
Jim
Yahoo Message Number: 1758 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/1758)
Fred or others
I was looking over your information and tested my unit as per your instructions. The unit is working properly.
However I didn't realize that the battery boost switch had 4 lugs on it. Testing it with a meter indicated the aft 2 lugs grounded each other when the boost switch is depressed. Is this the correct hookups for ground/green last and wire 178 next?
Thanks
Ian
Yahoo Message Number: 1763 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Country-Coach-Owners/conversations/messages/1763)
Wire 178 is a single wire goin to one lug on the switch, the others are grounds that go to the other lug of the switch.
Fred Kovol
--- madrver01 cruzindabeach@...> wrote: