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Inspecting D/S Main Slide

Yahoo Message Number: 83199
Hi,

Jeannie and I are shipping out in a couple of weeks. We develop an ongoing laundry list of "to do" things before we travel. One item on that list is to inspect the driver side main slide Power Gear unit, shear bolts, drive shafts and rack and pinion gear assemblies. A friend of mine had his puke (same bus model & year) so I figured it wouldn't be a bad idea to check things out. One of those peace of mind endeavors. My treatment of this is here:

http://www.muniac.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=137#Post137 for your reading pleasure.

This slide is unique and retracts differently than the other slides. Hope this helps a few folks avoid the BIG extension.

Best - Scott

2006 Allure 430 40' #31349

(Bus-Stead Lemon) My Allure Page http://www.muniac.com/Allure%20Page.html

Re: Inspecting D/S Main Slide

Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83221
Great tutorial Scott!

In your photo of the drive motor, notice the fuse on the control board. I cannot remember the resistance, but I blew one a couple of years ago, and now carry a spare. All three of my motors have the fuse.

Exactly what "sliding surfaces" did you lube with silicone spray?

Thanks,
Jay

05 Inspire 51457

Re: Inspecting D/S Main Slide

Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83223
Jay - Glad you enjoyed the article. Wood forms both the main floor and the bottom of the slide. As for the slide, its very bottom is covered with what looks to be polypropylene plastic. Which is slippery. The main floor edge is also coated with plastic. Not sure what kind. These form radius concave and convex surfaces between slide bottom inner edge and main floor outer edge. Simply put, it amounts to an inclined plane or skid ramp. These are readily visible (and accessible) by lifting up the rug. See photo in my article. I spray silicone lubricant all along this joint (about 12 feet) making sure both plastic areas receive lubrication. As you retract the slide you'll notice the gear motor struggles for the first 2" of travel to overcome the lift and friction. This takes HUGE torque. Once over the "hump" the gear motor sees less load (listen for increased speed) and completes the slide retraction over the rug. Silicone and the lubricity it offers these surfaces help the gear motor, slide, gears, drive shafts, shear bolts and bearings complete their travel with less stress than would otherwise be present with dry surfaces. I also wash all four slide sides (top, bottom and sides) before retracting. The silicone is a proactive step on my part simply to help a mechanism with a heavy lifting job. Cleaning avoids dust entrapment and a host of other issues.
The D/S main slide in the only one with this unique retract trajectory and challenge. I'm not sure how the Inspire is setup although I'd guess it's the same gig. My other three slides are direct inward retractions without any changes in the vertical.
You're ahead of me on the spare fuses. I should pop it out, get the amperage and keep some extras in stock. As for our pre-travel prep, I usually bump all the slide mechanisms (3 gear motors and 1 HWH) in both directions just to make sure all "seem like" they are working. Safe travels.

At 11:46 AM 10/12/2012, you wrote:

Re: Inspecting D/S Main Slide

Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83225
Hope your power gear doesn't go out. My motor is fine but the gear inside are missing some teeth. You got to buy the hold assembly and it cost $850.00.

Robert & Chee Chee Huffhines
2007 Tribute #81042
2006 Jeep Liberty



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From: Scott

To: Country-Coach-Owners@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 5:55 PM Subject: RE: [Country-Coach-Owners] Inspecting D/S Main Slide

Jay - Glad you enjoyed the article. Wood forms both the main floor and the bottom of the slide. As for the slide, its very bottom is covered with what looks to be polypropylene plastic. Which is slippery. The main floor edge is also coated with plastic. Not sure what kind. These form radius concave and convex surfaces between slide bottom inner edge and main floor outer edge. Simply put, it amounts to an inclined plane or skid ramp. These are readily visible (and accessible) by lifting up the rug. See photo in my article. I spray silicone lubricant all along this joint (about 12 feet) making sure both plastic areas receive lubrication. As you retract the slide you'll notice the gear motor struggles for the first 2" of travel to overcome the lift and friction. This takes HUGE torque. Once over the "hump" the gear motor sees less load (listen for increased speed) and completes the slide retraction over the rug. Silicone and the lubricity it offers these surfaces help the gear motor, slide, gears, drive shafts, shear bolts and bearings complete their travel with less stress than would otherwise be present with dry surfaces. I also wash all four slide sides (top, bottom and sides) before retracting. The silicone is a proactive step on my part simply to help a mechanism with a heavy lifting job. Cleaning avoids dust entrapment and a host of other issues.
The D/S main slide in the only one with this unique retract trajectory and challenge. I'm not sure how the Inspire is setup although I'd guess it's the same gig. My other three slides are direct inward retractions without any changes in the vertical.
You're ahead of me on the spare fuses. I should pop it out, get the amperage and keep some extras in stock. As for our pre-travel prep, I usually bump all the slide mechanisms (3 gear motors and 1 HWH) in both directions just to make sure all "seem like" they are working. Safe travels.

At 11:46 AM 10/12/2012, you wrote:

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Re: Inspecting D/S Main Slide

Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83226
Robert - I hope mine doesn't crap out either. That's why I baby it with silicone lubricant. And I know the drill. I bought a $500 turbine motor to replace $2 worth of brushes. I also bought a $150 float switch to replace a $0.50 plastic float. When and where does it stop?? I'll add this pricing information to my article. I'm curious...... Have you disassembled the gear box to see if an individual gear can be replaced? Please tell me they didn't use cheap plastic gears in there.

At 08:22 PM 10/12/2012, you wrote:

Re: Inspecting D/S Main Slide

Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83228
have not disassembled the gear box, but will over the next week and let everyone know

Robert & Chee Chee Huffhines
2007 Tribute #81042
2006 Jeep Liberty



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From: Scott

To: Country-Coach-Owners@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2012 12:42 AM Subject: Re: [Country-Coach-Owners] Inspecting D/S Main Slide

Robert - I hope mine doesn't crap out either. That's why I baby it with silicone lubricant. And I know the drill. I bought a $500 turbine motor to replace $2 worth of brushes. I also bought a $150 float switch to replace a $0.50 plastic float. When and where does it stop?? I'll add this pricing information to my article. I'm curious...... Have you disassembled the gear box to see if an individual gear can be replaced? Please tell me they didn't use cheap plastic gears in there.

At 08:22 PM 10/12/2012, you wrote:

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Re: Inspecting D/S Main Slide

Reply #6 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83231
Robert,

Some of these units might use "standard" gears. Which means a repair/rebuilt might be possible. What would be a challenge is determining the pressure angle of the gears they used. 20 degrees is common but not standard. Counting the teeth and measuring the hub is easy. I'd be happy to work together with you on this if it helps advance the cause. At $850 a pop, I'd say looking into this a bit further makes some sense. Looking forward to your discoveries. Good luck.

At 06:17 AM 10/13/2012, you wrote:

Re: Inspecting D/S Main Slide

Reply #7 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83234
Robert,

Are you talking about the drive gear the moves the slide rail in and out. I broke the shaft that the gear is attached to. This was about 2 years ago and I was able to the gear, bushing, key, pins, shaft everything I needed to replace all the moving parts the move the slide in and out for well less than $100.00 from CC in Junction City. I did not have to replace the motor. The biggest issue I had with breaking shear bolts as it turned out was the motor mounted to the bulkhead had a bolt missing and the other three were loose. After the repairs I have not had to replace a shear bolt. This is on the D/S slide.

Jock Vargo
2005 Inspire
51428
 

Re: Inspecting D/S Main Slide

Reply #8 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83910
Finally replaced the motor and all works well. Took the old motor apart and several gears were missing their teeth and the shoulder that holds a gear was broken. I still wish I could have purchased just the gears- alot cheaper.
thanks to Kevin Watts for getting me the best price and getting the motor on a timely manner.

Robert & Chee Chee Huffhines
2007 Tribute #81042
2006 Jeep Liberty



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From: Jock Vargo

To: Country-Coach-Owners@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2012 10:41 AM Subject: Re: [Country-Coach-Owners] Inspecting D/S Main Slide

Robert,

Are you talking about the drive gear the moves the slide rail in and out. I broke the shaft that the gear is attached to. This was about 2 years ago and I was able to the gear, bushing, key, pins, shaft everything I needed to replace all the moving parts the move the slide in and out for well less than $100.00 from CC in Junction City. I did not have to replace the motor. The biggest issue I had with breaking shear bolts as it turned out was the motor mounted to the bulkhead had a bolt missing and the other three were loose. After the repairs I have not had to replace a shear bolt. This is on the D/S slide.

Jock Vargo
2005 Inspire
51428

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