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Tow Bar Failures - looking for better system

Yahoo Message Number: 96435
I have been pulling a Chevy Avalanche behind my 2006 Country Coach Allure for the past 2 years, but have had 2 inexplicable failures that I was able to catch soon enough and avert without major damage. These experiences has caused me to want to look for a new and better designed tow system with more fail safes.

Here is the info and specs behind each failure:

Equipment:
2006 Country Coach Allure 430 with tag axle Towing Chevy Avalanche - 4 down (avalanche is the same as a 1500 Silverado pickup) Avalanche Curb Weight - 5950 lbs

Tow Bar: Blue Ox Aventa LX - purchased used (10,000 lb capacity) 2"? receiver

Baseplate: Blue Ox BX1676
Failure #1
The first failure occurred on the interstate in Indiana. What essentially happened was that one of the tow bar arms came loose at the baseplate on the vehicle side due to the hitch pin coming out. The hitch pin is a standard 1/2"? hitch pin with a hairpin clevis pin that connects the yoke on the Aventa tow bar to the baseplate. The road had been somewhat rough, but not any more than most of our Interstate system. I had heard/felt a slight bump and looked at the rear view camera and noticed that the Avalanche wasn't in the right place, was further away from the coach and not centered. I was going about 60mph and was able to slow down very slowly and pull over without the Avalanche impacting the motorhome. What I found was the tow bar was dragging on the ground and there wasn't any hitch pin nor clevis hook anyplace. It had somehow inexplicably come loose. The safety cables were both in place. The other tow bar arm was still in place.
We had driven about 400 miles that day and the toad had not been disconnected for 2 days. I always check all the connections before starting the day and also when we stop, so I am 99% sure they clevis pins were in the hitch pins. We had been going for several hours since we had stopped when the problem occurred. We disconnected the toad and drove to a hardware store where I got new hitch pins. I got this type:

Being pretty leery at that point and having no logical explanation as to why the hitch pin came loose, I also wired the handle on the hitch pin such that it would stay in place even without the clevis pin to secure it. I have no idea how it actually came lose, I have never had a clevis pin come lose! I know that the clevis pins can get stretched out and not snap on as tight as you would like, but I don't think mine were in that condition.

Failure #2
The Aventa tow bar I was using was purchased used and was starting to show some signs of wear, so I figured I would replace it, especially after the failure. Since I already had Blue Ox baseplates, I purchased a new Blue Ox Allure tow bar and started using it.
I probably got lax at some point and quit using the secondary tie wire as a safety for the hitch pins, and had no issues until a trip this year to Havasupai AZ. We were coming back from a wonderful trip to the Havasupai Falls. Indian Road 18 is 65 miles of mostly paved country road, with many many rolling ups and downs in the road. You can only drive about 45-50mph, especially in a MH with a toad. We were about halfway back on a slight descent when the exact same thing occurred on the same side (the same side as the previous failure), a hitch pin came lose and the one tow bar fell to the ground. I was able to catch it in time and pull over and stop. I had a spare hitch pin and we were able to hook it back up, although the one tow bar was slightly bent. I inspected EVERYTHING and didn't find anything to explain how the hitch pin came lose. I had inspected it about 30 minutes prior and am 100% certain that everything was in place.
I suppose there may be some scenario where up and down movement causes enough flex that something catches the clevis just right and it releases. Very strange though since I cannot explain why or reproduce this, but it has happened twice. I come from a mechanical / engineering background and this one really has me scratching my head! So needless to say, I am ready to replace my towing system with something other than Blue Ox.
Has anyone had any similar failures? The frustrating part is I can't explain why, so I am unable to know how to exactly prevent it again. My instinct tells me to go to some type of locking pin.

Potential Replacements
1)   Roadmaster Blackhawk 2 All Terrain Roadmaster Inc. - Tow Bars, Braking Systems & RV Accessories This tow bar seems more heavy duty and has a heavier duty attachment to the baseplate. It also uses a cross bard between the baseplates. They use a ¾"? hitch pin with a larger hole for the clevis. They actually use a spring loaded lynch pin. The hole is large enough to accommodate a padlock in both sets of hitch pins.
I like their channel for the safety cables and the power cable. Based on my research, this is my #1 candidate.

2)   ReadyBrute™ RV Tow Bar
RV Tow bars with Integrated ReadyBrake Surge Brake, Standard TowBars - NSA RV Products This is an aluminum tow bar, 8,000 lb capacity. The attachment method is very similar to the Blue ox, a single ½"? hitch pin. I can't really see many differences or advances that make this tow bar compelling. The weight savings with aluminum is nice, but not mandatory for me. All in all I would prefer a heavier tow bar made of steel.

3)   Demco ExcaliBar II
Excali-Bar II | Demco Products This uses a similar ½"? hitch pin attachment as well. It does include some vertical adjustment to keep the tow bars level. Seems well built.
I am leaning towards the Roadmaster Blackhawk 2 because of the heavier duty attachment at the baseplate. But most importantly, I am looking for a tow bar that will not have a similar failure! Yes the safety cables provide a failsafe, but they don't prevent the toad from ramming the motorhome if the failure occurs on a descent.
I appreciate any thoughts or comments. Sorry for the long post, but I figure giving everyone the whole story is better than to leave you guessing.

Dan

2006 Allure 430 with tag
#31344

Re: Tow Bar Failures - looking for better system

Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 96437
One possible explanation is if the towbar is not close to level when toad and coach are on a flat area. All towbar manufacturer's give a tolerance from level that they allow. Possibly a little to much angle at rest and when you either have too much up and down motion or rough road the towbar moves enough to bind hitch pin and break/damage it.

Ray

They say wine improves with age! As I enter my golden years, I say age improves with wine! The Born Loser

Re: Tow Bar Failures - looking for better system

Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 96441
I highly recommend the Roadmaster All Terrain II. It is very easy to connect and disconnect and seems reliable and durable. With its 10,000 lb capacity, I use it to tow my Chevy Suburban and the connections for the Burb are all but invisible when completely disconnected. I got the RAT II with Airforce One Braking system and have never been disappointed nor envious of anyone else's system. There are some other pretty good systems around, but nothing, I don't believe, that has anything better than what this system offers. Like someone else mentioned you do want to keep the tow bar relatively level. I purchased a receiver adapter for the coach that drops down the receiver several inches for the Roadmaster.

Joseph Burkle

2010 Tiffin Allegro Bus 43QRP

43' quad slide tag axle ISL 425 HP pusher formerly:

2008 Country Coach Inspire 360 Founders Edition Windseeker Motor Coach - Tiffin Allegro Bus

Re: Tow Bar Failures - looking for better system

Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 96443
I use padlocks instead of clevis pins in my Roadmaster. They don't fall out.

Tim Gerrity

2002 Magna 40' #6081
2011 Escape

Re: Tow Bar Failures - looking for better system

Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 96444
Blue Ox allows 3" above or below level and I think I was at 2" below, so within specs.

Joseph, do you have the MX or the XL baseplate adapters? They don't look much different, but Roadmaster says the MX line is meant for heavier vehicles. I think my Avalanche uses the same baseplate as your Suburban (if an 07-14 model year).
http://roadmasterinc.com/bg_/bg_rmi_std.pdf
I know the Air Force One braking system, but what is a Rat ll?

Thanks for the comments!
Dan

2006 Allure 430 with tag
#31344

Re: Tow Bar Failures - looking for better system

Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 96445
Have the same base plate and tow bar. Have been towing for 32000 miles and when I started I was told to get locking pins which Blue Ox supplied with my tow bar as an option.
Now towing a new GMC with locking pins. I would try the locking pins offered by Blue Ox as they have worked great.

Buddy 06 Inspire 360 51887

Re: Tow Bar Failures - looking for better system

Reply #6 –
Yahoo Message Number: 96446
I feel the issue is an outside influence, ie someone removed the pins so it could come apart. I have heard of this before. We use padlocks on all connection points to prevent this mess.
If you do decide to replace the towbar, I suggest the 10,000 lb Roadmaster.

Mikee

Re: Tow Bar Failures - looking for better system

Reply #7 –
Yahoo Message Number: 96447
Blue Ox offers key locking pins. They are a little bit of a nuisance but it only takes a few seconds to unlock and remove only when you want to remove them. I also purchased the larger locking pin for the tow bar assembly. In use 8 years, 30,000 miles. Only maintenance has been a little lube each year.
Excellent solution. I am partial to the Blue Ox systems. They work for me. Never experienced any problems.
I tow a 2006 Malibu Maxx, automatic trans.
Daron Hairabedian, 98 Allure 30226

Re: Tow Bar Failures - looking for better system

Reply #8 –
Yahoo Message Number: 96449
Dan


I have been using over the last many years a Road Master Sterling tow bar. Years ago I had The pins almost come lose. We had stopped at a very busy tourist stop and during the walk around before departing. I found that someone had removed the spring loaded clevis pins from the tow bar. I was able to replace with tempary wire.to get to the hardware store and purchased enough pad locks to replace all the spring pins. I have not had any problems since.
You can not trust other people at any type of rest stops
Bo & Kathy Lee

2000 Magna #5896 40 FT

2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
Rubicon

Re: Tow Bar Failures - looking for better system

Reply #9 –
Yahoo Message Number: 96461
I've had a blue Ox Adventa II 10k lb for about 7 years. I tow an 8k pound Ford excursion 4 by 4 with it. I have driven many miles including over badly wash boarded roads. I have never had the problem you describe. if you were talking about the pins that attach the arms to the base plate, on mine what you describe is not physically possible since the pins have spring loaded catches that pop out once inserted all the way. there are no clevis pins. if for some reason the spring loaded catches did not pop out due say to dirt or lack of full insertion into the base plate then an arm could fall out of the base plate. otherwise this would require a complete failure of the massive pin which is almost impossible.

Rich 2002 Magna

Re: Tow Bar Failures - looking for better system

Reply #10 –
Yahoo Message Number: 96464
I have been enjoying the RV life style for 27 years. I have never had any issues with locking pins on

roadmaster equalizing hitches or with their tow bar products either. I really enjoyed the introduction of their Sterling units with the tension release levers. I could retire my big Snap-on screw drivers or pry

bars. I guess I have been lucky I've never had any of the locking pins mysteriously disappear. TWI
2004 Intrigue 11731

Re: Tow Bar Failures - looking for better system

Reply #11 –
Yahoo Message Number: 96468
I've been using the ReadyBrute tow bar for about three years now without any issues. My coach is a 2005 Inspire pulling a 2012 Ford Explorer about 4500 lbs. I have had not problems with this setup or the hitch pins.
RJ

2005 Inspire #51264

Re: Tow Bar Failures - looking for better system

Reply #12 –
Yahoo Message Number: 96470
Hi sorry for the abbreviation... I had already referred to the Roadmaster All Terrain II, so I was just abbreviating it the seond ti me as RAT II. Coupled wirth the AF1 it is about as good a seup as money can buy, I think. Ypou do have to be careeful of malicious mishief with anything... I use two double sets of long shackle padlocks... one which lock the top bar onto the car mount brackets and a second set down below to back up the locking pins... you cannot pull out the locking pins with the padlocks in place and also prevents theft of some very expensive hardware Joseph Burkle

2010 Tiffin Allegro Bus 43QRP

43' quad slide tag axle ISL 425 HP pusher formerly:

2008 Country Coach Inspire 360 Founders Edition www. Wind-seeker.com

Re: Tow Bar Failures - looking for better system

Reply #13 –
Yahoo Message Number: 96471
Dan... I'm not sure whether I have the MX or the XL baseplate adapters... I googled them online and looked at mine and am just not sure. But I bought it from Hitch Pro in Eugene OR (next to Junction City) and had it all installed at their shop and they are probably one of the nmost experienced shops on the west coast for these things, so I just went with what they recommended for towing my Suburban. I certainly all looks very stout whatever it is Joseph Burkle

2010 Tiffin Allegro Bus 43QRP

43' quad slide tag axle ISL 425 HP pusher formerly:

2008 Country Coach Inspire 360 Founders Edition Windseeker Motor Coach - Tiffin Allegro Bus
 

Re: Tow Bar Failures - looking for better system

Reply #14 –
Yahoo Message Number: 96473
Addendum tto what I wrote earlier... I noticed in the chart you referenced that the XL is listed as kit # 3154-1 and the MX as # 3154-3. Mine is clearly labeled 3154-1 so that answers the question... I have the XL. But again I trust Hitch Pro to know what they are doing as they are very accustomed to do motorhomes for the Junction City area and I think I am probably well within the specs for a 2009 Suburban LTZ 4WD. jb