Re: Room Slide
Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 111958
As a stop gap until you get to a place where you have a full set of tools (If you don't travel with a massive amount.) try pushing in and running multiple strips of Gorilla Tape to hold the angle iron tighter.
We damaged one of ours on our front deeper slide, several years ago. The gang on this board, suggested that I:
-Remove completely (With slide out) -Clean off old glue
-Marl three evenly separated locations to drill into the side of the angle iron (The side that goes against the slide side.) -Dry mount the angle iron back onto the slide, and mark on the slide where the holes line up -Determine what you will use as a mechanical attach assist (I went with Stainless Steel screws. (Sorry I forget the size, not real big, and not real small - if that helps!!). But others have used Pop Rivets. Depending upon what you will use, drill the side of the slide with the appropriate hole. (And use the piece of blue tape to confirm the depth does not go thru to the inside wall:)!) -Prep clean the area of the slide side and bottom edge, and clean the inside of the angle iron -Use either Silkens or 3M adhesive/sealant (I used Fast Cure 9500 (Which I no longer see available?) but Fast Cure 5200 would do well too. Fast Cure costs a bit more, but as I work in the street in front of our home, I wanted it to cure as quick as possible before the end of the day, and bring the slide back in.) -Place angle into place, and attached with mechanical means (I put a dab of 3M Adhesive into the hole to, before screwing it in, as added water proofing, and to help it hold better), and let cure before closing slide.
I did both both angle irons on the front slide about 6 1/2 years ago now. And everything is holding up well. I do a yearly cleaning of the angle irons edge along the side of the slide, clean off old sealant, and tape area for a clean sealant edge, and apply a bead of clear sealant. (Probably not needed, as the 3M Adhesive/Sealant and SS screw are holding things well. But, keeping water out of the top leading edge of the angle iron, is always a good thing to do.) Note that another member here, I believe he has now sold his coach, fought water problems while camping in the snow for skiing, very gallantly. He also recommended trying to find some vinyl tape (3M had colors) that matches or compliments your paint scene, and he applied I think a 3/4", maybe 1"(?), strip all along the side of the slide overlapping the angle iron top edge. This also keeps water from working it's way into the angle iron, and then possibly into the coach.
I believe others have posted pictures in the years past, so you might look around for pictures on this. Or even look for a Youtube search on Slide Angle Iron repair (or play with the wording).
Best of luck to you,
Smitty
04 Allure 31017
Note: We were rookies when we had the problem. Pulled into Reno in 117 degree temperatures, generator running, both AC's on high. I did not know about opening the window to reduce the vacuum effect of opening a slide. The rear went out slowly, but OK. The strain of trying to put the large slide out with the sucking draw of two AC's on high - caused the slide to go out about 1/2 - 2/3 of the way. We heard a noise, and the slide calked to one side a little bit. The noise was the angle iron popping loose. Help form this board, taught me to always open a window when opening/closing the slide. And, I did use Gorilla Tape (A few pieces overlapping each other for extra strength.) to get the slide all the way out, and back the next day back in... And luckily the next day we were driving home... WHAT A GREAT RESOURCE THIS GANG IS.... I CALL THEM THE "CC Braintrust!".