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Ride Height Valves

Yahoo Message Number: 14002
Having read all of the recent posts about ride height valves - does anyone have a good procedure for the replacement process? Especially concerning whether all the air in the system is realeased while replacing the valve - we suspect we may have a faulty one, but since we're parked at a nice resort we are hesitant to move without repairing it.

Thanks.

J & MJ Brown

2002 Allure 30778

Re: Ride Height Valves

Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 14029
mjbrown46,

I replaced both of my rear valves. Yes the air must be totally evacuated. I can get under my coach & evacuate the air out and do the job or I have put jack stands under the trailer hitch to support the rear. Evacuate the air by removing vertical rod from rear end mount rubber grommet. Measure the horizontal rod from valve center to pivot point. Remove rod from old valve. Remove two air connections from old valve. Remove two mounting bolts. Reinstall new valve.
Reinstall the two air fittings. Reinstall horizontal rod to the measurement you made prior to the removal of old valve. Place the vertical rod back on rear end rubber grommet.
I would consider replacing both sides. Do one side first and then the other. Same process. Working at a cautious rate you can complete the change out easily in 1 hour a side.

If questions e-mail............
Steve

Intrigue #10673

Re: Ride Height Valves

Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 14036
I might suggest that you take a look in the files section for the information sheet on the adjustments I posted last year. I have changed both rear ride height valves and the new replacements required some adjustment to get the results of the CC specifications.

Jim Hughes

2000 Allure #30511

Quote from: rheavn
mjbrown46,

I replaced both of my rear valves. Yes the air must be totally > evacuated. I can get under my coach & evacuate the air out and do

the

Quote
job or I have put jack stands under the trailer hitch to support

the

Quote
rear. Evacuate the air by removing vertical rod from rear end

mount

Quote
rubber grommet. Measure the horizontal rod from valve center to

pivot

Quote
point. Remove rod from old valve. Remove two air connections from > old valve. Remove two mounting bolts. Reinstall new valve.
Reinstall the two air fittings. Reinstall horizontal rod to the > measurement you made prior to the removal of old valve. Place the > vertical rod back on rear end rubber grommet.
 I would consider replacing both sides. Do one side first and

then

Quote
the other. Same process. Working at a cautious rate you can

complete

Quote
the change out easily in 1 hour a side.

If questions e-mail............
Steve

Intrigue #10673

> Having read all of the recent posts about ride height valves -

does

Quote
anyone have a good procedure for the replacement process?

Especially

Quote
concerning whether all the air in the system is realeased while > > replacing the valve - we suspect we may have a faulty one, but

since

Re: Ride Height Valves

Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 14043
CAUTION CAUTION CAUTION Ride Height Valve Replacement

Use the valves at the front of the coach to dump all air from the system before you get under the coach. If the system has air the air bags may be partially inflated (raising the coach)and when you disconnect the air line all air will excape (lowering the coach to the frame bumpers inside the air bags).

You do not want to be under the coach when the air evacuates if the few inches the coach lowers is below your body height. In this case the coach would win.

If you can work under the coach with all air evacuated then you don't have to worry. If you cannot then DON'T DO IT.

The lucky guys have a pit they can get in and easily work on the coach while it is lowered. I have seen comments about those that have done it while having two wheels up on a curb.

Bottom line you don't want your body to become a jack stand. It is not designed to hold up the 30k to 40k lbs weight of the coach.

Regarding replacement -- if you have the plastic valves they should definitely be replaced with the metal ones in my opionion. I understand CC has the metal available for $117.00. In an emergency I had to buy the Haldex metal at Lazy Dayz in Tampa (Seffner) and the cost is $179.00.

I did find a Euclid replacement that is mostly metal @ $149.00 in Orlando but decided to go with the Haldex which is what I understand CC now uses.
Joey

1998 Intrigue 10540

Quote from: rheavn
mjbrown46,

I replaced both of my rear valves. Yes the air must be totally > evacuated. I can get under my coach & evacuate the air out and do

the

Quote
job or I have put jack stands under the trailer hitch to support the > rear. Evacuate the air by removing vertical rod from rear end mount > rubber grommet. Measure the horizontal rod from valve center to

pivot

Quote
point. Remove rod from old valve. Remove two air connections from > old valve. Remove two mounting bolts. Reinstall new valve.
Reinstall the two air fittings. Reinstall horizontal rod to the > measurement you made prior to the removal of old valve. Place the > vertical rod back on rear end rubber grommet.
 I would consider replacing both sides. Do one side first and

then

Quote
the other. Same process. Working at a cautious rate you can

complete

Quote
the change out easily in 1 hour a side.

If questions e-mail............
Steve

Intrigue #10673

> Having read all of the recent posts about ride height valves -

does

Quote
anyone have a good procedure for the replacement process?

Especially

Quote
concerning whether all the air in the system is realeased while > > replacing the valve - we suspect we may have a faulty one, but

since