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Topic: Mains vs Genset Problem (Read 2190 times) previous topic - next topic
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Re: Mains vs Genset Problem

Reply #25 –
Yahoo Message Number: 73498
A simpler way is to purchase a proximity AC voltage detector and with the generator running just follow along the cable until there is no AC voltage present.

Charlie

Inspire 52093

Re: Mains vs Genset Problem

Reply #26 –
Yahoo Message Number: 73499
Charlie, I have one of those but just getting to the line(s) is just a but more than this OLD guy should be doing!

Jim

Re: Mains vs Genset Problem

Reply #27 –
Yahoo Message Number: 73511
except there are 2 hot lines in the conduit.. so there will always be voltage, one of them works.

Mikee

Re: Mains vs Genset Problem

Reply #28 –
Yahoo Message Number: 73525
You are correct Mikee, but if the working leg is disconnected at the gen first then it should work.

Charlie

Mains vs Genset Problem

Reply #29 –
Yahoo Message Number: 73368
If you have the EMS, and when you remove the panel cover to read your voltages you should have seen how the heavy load items are split to a relay bank so to control your loads while on 30amp vs 50amp. I would troubleshooting the EMS relay bank may have one locked up or a board that isn't sensing polarity correctly.

Best Regards,
Dave

Dave Rousey Jr./ Owner
Former CC Technician
Styleworks RV Repair &
Restoration

33070 Roberts Ct.
Coburg, OR 97408
(541) 543-7983

http://styleworksrvrepair.com dave@...

Re: Mains vs Genset Problem

Reply #30 –
Yahoo Message Number: 73374
Thanks Dave,

Yes, the display says Gen Set but about half of breakers are cold including the front AC.
The mains measure 240 volts from L1 to L2, which I think is correct, the genset is zero volts between L1 and L2 is that normal?

Would this be a bad sense lead or a bad EMS board?

Thanks,
Jim

Re: Mains vs Genset Problem

Reply #31 –
Yahoo Message Number: 73381
Jim...

Sounds like you are losing one "leg" of the genset output...
If everything is normal with the coach plugged in to shore power, your problem is either the transfer switch or on the genset side of the transfer switch...
With the genset off, and the coach on shore power, measure the output of the transfer switch with a good vom... L1 to ground should be 120+ Volts, L2 to ground should be 120+ Volts, L1 to L2 should be 240+ Volts...
Next, with shore power dis-connected from the coach and the genset running, measure the output of the transfer switch with your vom... It should also read L1 = 120+Volts, L2 = 120+Volts, L1 to L2 = 240+ Volts...
If you don't have these voltages at the output of the transfer switch with the genset running, measure the voltages at the input to the transfer switch... If you have the voltages at the input, but not at the output, you have a bad transfer switch...
If you don't have all the voltages at the input to the transfer switch, you have a wiring problem between the genset and the transfer switch or a problem with the genset itself...

buck

k7wn, '99magna5653, Cat C10, Allison HD4060, SantaFe toad

=========================================================

Re: Mains vs Genset Problem

Reply #32 –
Yahoo Message Number: 73386
"Next, with shore power dis-connected from the coach and the genset running, measure the output of the transfer switch with your vom... It should also read L1 = 120+Volts, L2 = 120+Volts, L1 to L2 = 240+ Volts..."
Thanks Buck, this is what I'm trying to find out. At the output block of the genset I have 120 volts from L1 and L2 to ground and zero volts between L1 & L2.
Should L1/l2 at the genset be 240V???? If so that's where the problem is.

Thanks,
Jim

Re: Mains vs Genset Problem

Reply #33 –
Yahoo Message Number: 73399
Jim... Don't know about other coaches and gensets, but with my shore power dis-connected and the genset running, I measure 240 V between L1 and L2, on both the input terminals and the output terminals of the transfer switch...
Maybe someone else will chime in and confirm that you should or should not have have 240V between L1 & L2 from the genset in your particular coach...

buck

k7wn,'99magna5653, Cat C10, Allison HD4060, SantaFe toad

=====================================================

Re: Mains vs Genset Problem

Reply #34 –
Yahoo Message Number: 73402
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, the mystery deepens. Also I note the "shed load" priorities of the EMS have the bedroom AC unit going off before the living room. When on the genset it's running the bedroom OK but not the living room.

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!
Jim

Re: Mains vs Genset Problem

Reply #35 –
Yahoo Message Number: 73411
Jim...

I don't know what "EMS" is... If there is one in my coach, either I don't know what it is, or know it by another name...
In any case, it still sounds to me like you are losing one "leg" of your genset output... Seems to me that if things are "normal" while plugged in to shore power, then the culprit must be either the transfer switch or on the genset side of the transfer switch...
I base this premise on your statement that on genset power you lose several outlets and your front AC unit, but on shore power everything is normal...
You may have multiple problems... Strictly a "stab on the dark", but try re-setting your GFI AC outlets and see if you get your front outlets back...

Where are you now??? I am in central Florida...

buck

k7wn, '99magna5653, Cat C10, Allison HD4060, SantaFe toad

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Mains vs Genset Problem

Reply #36 –
Yahoo Message Number: 73376
Yes that is normal on genset mode, when troubleshooting the relay bank you will see the lines coming in to the relay the back out to the load being A/C, etc..... So the only lines going through the EMS are the roof units, washer/ dryer, maybe water heater. I have changed out only the relay board/ control board. So if you have power coming in you should have it going out on 50amp, but on 30amp only certain loads can be used like only one roof unit it power shed's for you.

Regards,
Dave

Dave Rousey Jr./ Owner
Former CC Technician
Styleworks RV Repair &
Restoration

33070 Roberts Ct.
Coburg, OR 97408
(541) 543-7983

http://styleworksrvrepair.com dave@...

Re: [Country-Coach-Owners] Re: Mains vs Genset Problem

Reply #37 –
Yahoo Message Number: 73459
Hello,

There should only be the j-box where the generator is, so follow the romex flex line to the j-box. (Then it should be a straight shoot to the transfer switch or the surge guard depends on how it's wired.) I have had to r&r or re-tighten the wire nuts used to connect the wires many times.

Dave

Dave Rousey Jr./ Owner
Former CC Technician
Styleworks RV Repair &
Restoration

33070 Roberts Ct.
Coburg, OR 97408
(541) 543-7983

http://styleworksrvrepair.com dave@...

Re: Mains vs Genset Problem

Reply #38 –
Yahoo Message Number: 73460
Thank you Dave,

If I can get my old creaky body in there somehow I'll see if I can take a look.
Best wishes to you and all the good tech folk how keep us on the road.

Jim

Re: Mains vs Genset Problem

Reply #39 –
Yahoo Message Number: 73468
Jim: When I lost my transfer switch, TS-50 the small board in the switch had gone bad. About 2"x11/2". I replaced the board, $35.00 and it fixed the problem. Barrie Boas 94 Concept 5111

Re: Mains vs Genset Problem

Reply #40 –
Yahoo Message Number: 73472
Thanks Barrie, but the problem now is we have voltage out of the genset but NO voltage going into the transfer switch on one leg.

We have an open somewhere along that line.

Best,
Jim

07 Allure #31570

Re: [Country-Coach-Owners] Re: Mains vs Genset Problem

Reply #41 –
Yahoo Message Number: 73497
We have others tools I would use in this case that would be multi-meter or a cry baby which attaches at one end then you follow the line until the cry baby goes off. Never open or make an pin hole on ac line insulation allows atmosphere to enter (sorry my opinion).

Dave

Dave Rousey Jr./ Owner
Former CC Technician
Styleworks RV Repair &
Restoration

33070 Roberts Ct.
Coburg, OR 97408
(541) 543-7983

http://styleworksrvrepair.com dave@...

Re: Mains vs Genset Problem

Reply #42 –
Yahoo Message Number: 73500
I cleaned those connections pretty good when I reset them the other day. I just opened the front bay ceiling and I can see the 4 wires exiting the rigid conduit. They are taped with black tape every foot or so and secured a few places with plastic wire ties as they run aft.
I believe this "out of conduit" state goes all the way back to where they come down out of the ceiling and into the t-switch.

I'm pooped now so I think I'll leave the fix to the pros.

Thank you one and all,
Jim

07 Allure #31570
 

Re: Mains vs Genset Problem

Reply #43 –
Yahoo Message Number: 73507
I agree that there are other tools that trace down a break, but they tend to be rather expensive - not what the general do-it-yourselfer has. I also agree that if the power line is in locations that are subject to having water sit or drain across the pin hole location, then the pin idea is not good. However, I think that getting a good wrap of electrical tape over the area where the pin hole is will take care of the issue. When we installed an experimental radar on a Navy ship, we had a power issue and used the T-pin trick to determine where the problem was (the radar processor and displays were hundreds of feet and several decks away from the transmitter and antenna). We found the problem, repaired it, and had no problems during over 6-months of sea trials - definitely a worse case environment.

Jim, if you try the pin trick, then be sure to tape over the area with good electrical tape. Also, whenever you use electrical tape over electrical connections, be sure to pull the tape so that it stretches as you wrap the joint and be sure to put at least 2 layers over the area. This will help insure that the tape adheres to the wire and to itself and does not have loose areas for moisture to penetrate.

Regards,

John

'05 Inspire DaVinci #51905