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Parasitic Loads

Yahoo Message Number: 75821
We do mostly boondocking so I am trying to minimize as many parasitic loads as possible. We have an 04 Intrigue. There is a constant 4 amp draw with everything off and the house batteries connected to the coach. I found the house battery disconnect solenoid is not a latching type relay so it is on all the time but only draws about an amp or less. The LEDs in the light switches probably don't add up to much and the propane safety solenoid draws little.
I am hoping someone can point me to a big load that I have overlooked. Or maybe this is something I am going to have to live with because it is a combination of many very small loads.
I do intend to remove the house battery solenoid and replace it with a manual on/off switch in the battery compartment. I will leave the battery boost solenoid because it is not energized all the time.

Thanks,

Norm 04 Intrigue #11773

Re: Parasitic Loads

Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 75823
Remember the Co2 and propane leak sensors. They draw all the time. A solar system on even a bad day should take care of that and much more.

Leonard

97' Magna 5418

Re: Parasitic Loads

Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 75830
Don't forget the TV's. When I'm dry camping I always turn off the TV circuit breaker except when I'm watching TV. I assume you are looking at the inverter remote to see the draw. That is only the draw going to the inverter. Unless you have installed a shunt you will not know what the total (a/c & d/c) draw is.

John Pratt
'06 Allure

Re: Parasitic Loads

Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 75845
Hi John,

Thanks for the suggestion but in my case the 4 amp draw is there even with the inverter off.
Yes I do have a shunt that allows me to observe all of the DC current going into and out of the house batteries. I also have a clamp on DC ampmeter.
I have lots of solar so the constant drain on the batteries is being replaced by the solar but I am trying to make the system as efficient as possible. A constant 4 amp draw is 96 amp hours a day. That alone is one or more solar panels of average size.
I think I am going to have to remove fuses one at a time and see if that method finds the culprit. I am leaning towards something in the HWH leveling system but not sure.

Norm

2004 Intrigue #11773

Re: Parasitic Loads

Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 75849
Norm,

How did you shut off the inverter? If you did it at the remote panel then the remote itself is still alive and drawing some power.
I removed the backlit switches and pulled the 12 volt supply lead for the lights where they had long enough leads so that I could get a hold of them. Some were so short that I could not get the switch itself out far enough. I did that not for power gain but we both hated all the green lights everywhere at night.
I disconnected the On Star unit that came with coach and had never activated it. That was alive all the time waiting for someone to push the button. I believe that my Pioneer backup/radio combo is also always alive and waiting. I did not disconnect it to see.
Unless you have a residential refrigerator, the control panel for it is 12 volts and always alive unless you pull the fuse. But then the refrigerator would not be able to run on propane or AC for that matter. The controller for the HydroHot is 12 volts as well and always on. It works in conjunction with a master controller located in one of the AC units (usually the front). It is there to interpret the digital commands coming from the digital thermostat and send the commands on to the correct unit be it AC/Heat pumps or the Hydrohot. I believe that the HydroHot will operate with the breakers off for the AC units but I never tried it. Also the breaker in the AC breaker panel that in my coach says 'water heater' is only for the feed to the 110 volt element in the HydroHot.
The controller for my door and patio awning is always alive since it has a remote. The HWH controller is an interesting question. The ignition has to be on to use most of its functions but if you level the coach and simply turn off the ignition it wakes up every 30 minutes and re-levels if needed. You can only get it out of this mode by turning the ignition on and hitting the off button. Then it will no longer re-adjust. So I am not sure of exactly how much of the controller is on at any given.
Someone has already mentioned the propane and Co2 detectors that are always on. So these are a few things that I can think of off hand. If you are down to a standing 4 amps then I feel that you are at rock bottom. I never could get below 6 amps with my 2004 Allure. 4 amps may be 96 amp-hours over a 24 hour period but it is also only 48 watts and that is only a little more than a 40 watt bulb,

Don Seager

2004 Allure 31046

Re: Parasitic Loads

Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 75856
Hello Norm, A suggestion that may help. Has your shunt meter been set to "zero" ? For the purpose of testing true shunt zero, a true zero can be obtained by placing both the "sensor" wires (at the shunt) together temporarily. Check the meter for 0.0 amps and reset if possible. Also on our unit the DHS mobil theater system selector switch should be off. And finally, check all compartments in the dark. We found a hidden basement light on in the dark we missed before....Hope this helps....Skip...#11329 40' Intrigue
 

Re: Parasitic Loads

Reply #6 –
Yahoo Message Number: 75873
Don,

I think you have pretty much listed the loads that I am going to have to live with.
I did remove the ground wire to all the light switches in the bedroom to get rid of all the green lights. Like you I did it to make the room dark, not save power.
I will learn to live with the 4 amp draw.

Norm