Hydro_Hot Electric Heating Element

December 29, 2011, 02:34:43 pm

Hi - A few weeks ago I started a thread on my Hydro-Hot problem. I've since resolved the problem and will chronicle the resolution here for others facing similar circumstances.

Here's a shot of the unit tucked into the passenger side plumbing
bay:

http://muniac.smugmug.com/Travel/Country-Coach-2006-430-Allure/IMG0637/738716338_smNwr-L.jpg It's a pretty typical mounting and allows access to plumbing connections (on left) and electricals (on right). Albeit with somewhat cramped conditions. That said, it's a damn shade better than mountings I've seen where the unit is turned 90 degrees to what's shown making one end completely inaccessible.

Anyway, one day my diesel burner shut off (another story) inducing me to switch on the electric heating element which I use for back-up. I did so and all was fine until the Hydro-Hot's electric heating element breaker suddenly popped (20A) along with several other breakers in the box. I gather the surge was responsible for popping the other non-related breakers. This left me in somewhat of a quandary as to what was going on. Thinking the worst, I assumed the calrod had corroded and shorted out. I reached out here and John Carrillo was kind enough to respond to my posting with his experience and expertise. He pointed me in the direction of the high limit thermostat switch sighting that it was unlikely that the calrod was shorted. Here's a slide show of the situation:

http://muniac.smugmug.com/photos/swfpopup.mg?AlbumID=20799001&AlbumKey=hnnQd3
The service box is riveted in so I needed to drill out two 3/16" aluminum rivets to get the box out. This plus unraveling the wires makes accessing the thermostat a whole lot easier. In my view this is a funky and poorly thought through way of bringing AC service into the calrod. There's a control relay in there that's too big for the box meaning wires are just smashed in where ever they fit. Once I removed the clutter, I used a VOM to quickly zero in on the shorted high temperature thermostat. Somehow it got shorted to ground owing to an internal failure of unknown proportions. Luckily the Hydro-Hot's metal tank was well grounded which quickly popped the breaker. Near as I can tell, no other electrical circuits or parts were damaged. Once I confirmed that the high temperature thermostat was bad, I ordered the part through John. He hustled and got the thermostat out which I received next day. The thermostat is constructed on what looks to be a studded brass body. My old thermostat came out easily and the new one went in the same way. It's a blind hole in the tank so you don't get socked with training the system of fluid. The important thing is to treat the part carefully as it's delicate. Don't over tighten it either when screwing the new on in. Just snug will be good enough as it isn't structural. Like so many of these repairs, once you can get to the bad part effecting repairs isn't horrific.

Aqua-Hot used wire nuts which I replaced with fully insulated spade lug quick disconnects. I also installed a line cord and a duplex outlet to make things more efficient. I can now plug in a light and should I experience catastrophic failure, I can plug in an electric space heater to keep the plumbing bay from freezing up. I also opened up the wiring a bit to make the next repair tons easier.

I also got the diesel burner put back in and that's working now. So I'm almost fully functional at this point. I need to replace the anti-scald valve which I'll do in the spring. My low tank level switch (already replaced once with a brass unit) is on the fritz. That requires tank drainage so I'll do that in the spring. My guess is the broken piece from the original cheap plastic switch (replaced several years ago which contains the magnet) has floated its way over and possibly jammed the brass switch. Who knows. So that's the story as of this moment. I hope it helps someone else that's expecting heat and instead gets snapping breakers followed by ice cold water at the tap. Thanks to John for helping me out. It's been real!!

Best - Scott

2006 Allure 430 #31349
(Bus-Stead Lemon)

Re: Hydro_Hot Electric Heating Element

Reply #1 – December 29, 2011, 03:51:21 pm

Yahoo Message Number: 76479

Question?

Why do you use the electric as a back up to the diesel?
We leave the electric on 24/7 and only fire the burner when we need the boost. Been doing it this way fulltimming for 5 years.

Thanks,

Jim 07 Allure #31570

Re: Hydro_Hot Electric Heating Element

Reply #2 – December 30, 2011, 01:18:17 pm

Yahoo Message Number: 76497

Jim,

I've got some other issues with the anti-scald valve which means "electric" hot water is weak sometimes. Also, at 1600 watts, it doesn't provide a fast recovery either. When running the washer, hot water quickly goes almost cool. That's been my experience. On diesel, the system just runs a bit better by providing faster recovery and more consistent hot water.

At 12:51 PM 12/29/2011, you wrote:

Re: Hydro_Hot Electric Heating Element

Reply #3 – December 31, 2011, 11:05:03 am

Yahoo Message Number: 76520

I have the same results as Scott. As it was explained to me by the nice members of this board, different coaches come with different options. Ours has a single, assume like Jim's in the 1600W range. Other CC's have double elements, that crank out more watts for heating.
The higher watts, means you need a full 50A hook up, or run off generator. A 30A service, will run the single element units - but not too much more.
We just spent a few cold nights in our local mountains. Had one electric heater running on high (1500w) and a second heater running on low (assume 750W) range. I had forgot to turn off the electric heating element to the water, and when it cycled on, tripped the 30A service at the pole. (I can run pretty quick, in my BVD's and T-shirt when it is in the low 30's:)!)

Best to all,
Smitty

04 Allure 31017

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