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Fan Controller replacement

Yahoo Message Number: 78820
Mileage dropped 25%. Diagnosed by Chris Snyder as bad fan controller (multi-meter readings checked as he expected, disconnecting the six pin plug resulted in no change of fan speed). Chris has no room in schedule to get it fixed before we leave on a trip tomorrow. We are on an urgent/rigid schedule.
I'm told by other sources that the part can't be obtained in less than three weeks, maybe as long as six. Chris pulled off a miracle and found a replacement controller whlch should be delivered to my house today. All of this means I will have to do the work myself. I'm perfectly able to handle a wrench and a hammer, as long someone tells me which way to turn it or where to hit it. So, I'm asking for some directions and help.
It looks like the controller is in two parts, electronic and hydraulic. Chris thinks the problem is electronic. Does anybody see a problem if I take the new one apart and just replace the electronic portion? That looks pretty easy. If I do that, should I plan to get the hydraulic module replaced at the end of our trip?
There are two wires that go from the electronic controller to the hydraulic module. There doesn't seem to be a plug at the hydraulic unit, that is, it goes into a hole which has been sealed with silicone. The silicone seems brittle. What suggestions to work with that issue.
If I decide to attempt a complete replacement, what precautions do I need to take when working with the hydraulic lines?

Any comments and/or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Jim Biestek

'04 Intrigue 11783

Re: Fan Controller replacement

Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 78821
Jim,

If I understand your message the fan is running in high speed all the time and when unplugging the controller the fan stayed in high speed.
I would not want to discourage you in replacing that controller but if you are pressed for time you may want to consider waiting until you return. I have changed mine out 4 or 5 times now and can do it in about two hours but I cut an access hole for easy access to the two bolts holding that unit on. When I looked at my controller and did not see a way to replace just the electronics part so I always replace the entire unit. It is a messy job and sometimes the hydraulic lines can be a problem going back together all the while hydraulic fluid is running down your arm.
It may be that replacing just the electronics on some of the controllers is easy. If so you could be in luck if that is the problem and the electronics portion probably is the problem. That hard material sealing the wires is normal. My Sauer Danfoss controller part number is 1090409.
If you decide to replace the unit I will be glad to walk you thru it on the phone and all you need is some hand tools and something to catch the hydraulic fluid in.

Richard Aquino
2001 Intrigue
ISL 370

Re: Fan Controller replacement

Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 78826
Jim, some years ago Country Coach sent me a new Fan Controller/Hydraulic Valve unit as you described. I had verified my Coolant Temp Sensor & Air Temp Sensors were good.
CC at the time suggested I install only the Fan Control Unit as they felt the Hydraulic Valve unit was probably OK.
So that is what I did. Your unit should have (2) wire Red & Yellow coming out of the Electronic Unit feeding into a Square Plug that goes into the side of the Round Valve portion. The Square plug is held in by a Screw which is located at the end of the Plug.
Then you have 4 Torks Screws that hold the Electronic Unit onto the Hyraulic Unit. You Plug in the (2) Wire Connection which is Power and the (6)Wire Connection which do all the readings from the Sensors etc.
Make sure you clean the Coach Side of these connectors (Females) very well and apply Di-Electric Grease into the Female & Male sides of the Connectors before connecting, push in firmly and make sure the Locking Tabs are snapped down.
If you Fan now runs at 3 different RPM's based on Engine Coolant & Air Temp correctly you don't need the Hydraulic Valve Unit replaced, I have my new Hydraulic Unit in front of me connected to the old Electronic unit as I'm writing to you.
If you make this change, start coach in AM cold climb under coach fan should not be turning or barely, as engine warms fan goes to about 500RPM, drive coach when Temp get about 174 degrees fan should be about mid-RPM and depending on each coach mine when I hit 198 I'm running full fan RPM, when coach reaches 188 fan goes to Mid Level RPM then up to 198 or 200 fan comes on Full RPM.

Thanks, Mike 03 Allure 1st Ave. #30898

Re: Fan Controller replacement

Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 78833
Jim, the two parts are not easily separated. I suggest that you replace the whole thing. You lose only a pint of hydrolic fluid. The only hard part is fasteners are inside the fan shroud.

Good luck.

George in Birmingham(currently in Asheville, NC '04 Allure 31038
George in Birmingham
2003 Magna 6298

Re: Fan Controller replacement

Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 78834
Jim,

As George said, go ahead and replace the whole thing. You won't lose much fluid.
You will probably need to cut an access hole in the bottom of the fan shroud to remove the bolts. I cut about a 3" x 5" rectangle to allow me to reach in and get a wrench/socket on the nuts. The metal is very thin and can be cut with a sabre or reciprocating saw. I then covered the opening with a larger piece of plexiglass and a few screws.

Rob

2002 Intrigue #11480

Re: Fan Controller replacement

Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 78837
Mike: how do you go about "verifying" that the coolant temp sensor and air temp sensors are good? What is the procedure? Thanks,

Roger Harper
2006 Intrigue
# 11990

Re: Fan Controller replacement

Reply #6 –
Yahoo Message Number: 78838
Quote
Quote from: Roger Harper
Roger,

Pending Mike's reply allow me to butt in a bit. Both sensors can be verified by measuring their resistance. Problem is the measurements need to be taken at various coolant and air temperatures. The resistance varies with temperature. There may be a chart in the files section, not sure, but I had one at one time. If you decide to do the job let me know and I will search my paper files. Before choosing to go with the thermal wax valve I replaced both sensors without testing the old ones. It was cheaper than having a shop do it (the sensors are only about $10 per) and a lot easier than checking resistance at various temperatures. In my case the fan still failed. Hope this helps your thinking while waiting for Mike to chime in.
Lyle Wetherholt
04 Intrigue 11740
> Mike: how do you go about "verifying" that the coolant temp sensor and air temp sensors are good? What is the procedure? > Thanks,

Roger Harper
2006 Intrigue
# 11990

Re: Fan Controller replacement

Reply #7 –
Yahoo Message Number: 78839
Roger,

With Ignition OFF and Engine COLD. Climb under coach and disconnect the 6 Pin Fan Controller Connector. It has a little "latch clip" you lift up and keep up while pulling connector apart.
Wipe off connector so you can see the very small alpha letters, ABCDEF on top of connector.

The AB wires/pins go to your Dash Airconditioning Relay The CD wires/pins go to your Engine Coolant Sensor The EF wires/pins go to your Engine Air Temp Sensor
The following measurements should be take on the Engine Side of the 6 Pin Connector.

Measure OHMS between C&D should = 1.2K to 3K

With your mult-meter set on OHMS = 1.2K to 3K

Hope this helps.

Mike 03 Allure 1st Ave. #30898 ISL 370

Re: Fan Controller replacement

Reply #8 –
Yahoo Message Number: 78844
Roger,

Take the following measurements with Ignition OFF and Engine COLD.
Climb under coach and disconnect the 6 Pin Fan Controller Connector. It has a "latch" on top of connector you release and hold open while pulling connector apart.
Wipe connector clean so that you can see the alpha markings ABCDEF denoting wires/pins.
The following measurements are taken on the Engine Side of the Connection not the Controller Side.

Wire/Pin A&B go to your Dash Air Conditioner Relay Wire/Pin C&D go to your Engine Coolant Sensor Wire/Pin E&F go to your Air Temp Sensor

With Multi-Meter set on OHMS

Measure across C&D should = 1.2K to 3K OHMS Measure across E&F should = 1.2K to 3K OHMS

If so, these 2 sensors are not your problem.

Hope this helps.

Mike 03 Allure 1st Ave. #30898 ISL 370

Re: Fan Controller replacement

Reply #9 –
Yahoo Message Number: 78846
Quote
Quote from: Roger Harper
Roger,

Pending Mike's input here is some info. Both sensors have resistance that can be measured with a VOM but the resistance varies with temperature so it is not easy to completely verify. There is a chart of these resistances, maybe in the files section but if not I should have one somewhere. They are inexpensive items, about $10 or so, thus it may be easier to just replace them in case they are faulty.
Mike may have better input.
Lyle Wetherholt
04 Intrigue 11740
> Mike: how do you go about "verifying" that the coolant temp sensor and air temp sensors are good? What is the procedure? > Thanks,

Roger Harper
2006 Intrigue
# 11990

Re: Fan Controller replacement

Reply #10 –
Yahoo Message Number: 78849
Roger, Lyle gives good info on testing at prongs of Sensors, but on my coach it is almost impossible to get your body into where the Coolant & Air Temp Sensors are to accomplish the test.

That is why I suggested testing at the connector.

Thanks, Mike 03 Allure 1st Ave. #30898 ISL 370

Re: Fan Controller replacement

Reply #11 –
Yahoo Message Number: 78859
Thanks Mike and Lyle; I'll let you know how it goes, Roger Harper, 2006 Intrigue, #11990
 

Result of Fan Controller replacement

Reply #12 –
Yahoo Message Number: 78870
Here's a follow-up to my posting requesting help. I got it (help, that is) and a lot of it. Thank you all.
Chris Snyder did indeed come through and got a fan controller shipped overnight to me. . When Chris described the process to me, I decided to seek professional help, since he could not spare the time before we had to get on the road. I decided to have the whole assembly replaced, using a local auto repair shop. As far as I can tell, they can fix anything.
Getting to the mounting bolts was the biggest hurtle. The solution was to remove the metal plate on the bottom of the fan shroud- it looks like it is some sort of air dam or deflector. They then cut an access hole, with my approval, in the bottom of the shroud to access the bolts. From that point on, it was a piece of cake. Replacing the metal plate completely covered the newly created access hole. To be on the safe side, silicone gasket material was placed around the rim of the hole before re-installing the plate.
Does anybody see any problem with that procedure? I sure hope not, since it's done.
Result? A 50% increase in mileage, from 5.4 to 8.4 mpg. I've never seen 8.4. We've just completed the first leg of our trip and I expect the results to be good for the rest of the way.

My previous posting:

Quote
> Mileage dropped 25%. Diagnosed by Chris Snyder as bad fan controller (multi-meter readings checked as he expected, disconnecting the six pin plug resulted in no change of fan speed). Chris has no room in schedule to get it fixed before we leave on a trip tomorrow. We are on an urgent/rigid schedule.
Etc, etc, etc.

Jim Biestek

'04 Intrigue 11783