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Fan ctroller

Yahoo Message Number: 83628
After intermittent operation, my fan controller is now stuck on high. I had the inputs tested, they are OK (in the midst of testing them, the controller switched to low for a brief time). Now my question: A part this expensive, with this high a failure rate, I find it hard to believe it cannot be rebuilt. Has anyone analyzed the failures to understand the failure mode? Can it be disassembled? Is there no choice but to throw it away and buy a new one?

Al Colby

2000 Intrigue 10979

Re: Fan ctroller

Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83635
Al, a member recently stated he had removed his Fan Controller and was sending it in for re-programming but I cannot find his post. Maybe he'll respond.

Mike 03 Allure 1st Ave.#30898

Re: Fan ctroller

Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83636
Al,

12 years is pretty long for this part. Consider yourself lucky, but you need a new one. I was told they can't be reprogrammed and the new ones are built to higher standards and should last longer.

Rob

2002 Intrigue, #11480

Re: Fan ctroller

Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83640
I had the inputs tested, they are OK
Al, are you certain you have a steady power supply to the controller? Not the temperature, a/c, etc inputs, but the 12 volts from the chassis circuit. An intermittent ground could be the problem. Power supply failure sends the fan to high speed. I had to replace a faulty power supply connector.

It sounds like the controller itself is functioning normally.

Jay

05 Inspire 51457 C-9

Re: Fan ctroller

Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83642
My experience with this was a dirty connection. I'm referring to the plug-in connector from the sensors to the controller about 6" from the controller. Pull it apart and clean the male and female connections with sandpaper or whatever, and then spray it with electrical cleaner. Let it dry for a few minutes and push it back together and wrap it with electrical tape or similar. This plug is located in the dirtiest area and picks up all the road grime and water.

Doug Allure '05 430 31125

Re: Fan controller

Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83643
That was how my problem began. I asked a CAT tech to pull the ("weatherproof") connection apart and clean the contacts. When he put it back together, it had failed completely.
I searched for an exact replacement connector to no avail, so I visited good old Pep Boys and dumped too much money on a universal weatherproof connector. Works fine.
If I had to do it over again, I would toss the connector and just splice the wires. That would be one fewer splice and no connector to fail. If I felt the need to force the fan to high speed by "disconnecting" the power, I would just pull the fuse in the driver's side front bay.

Live and learn.
Jay
51457

Re: Fan ctroller

Reply #6 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83644
I sent my controller in for evaluation; to check if it was operating properly. That was over 4 weeks ago and I'm still waiting; will keep the board informed when I get a response,

Roger Harper
2006 Intrigue
#11990

Re: Fan ctroller

Reply #7 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83648
OK, so I now find out a new controller costs over $600!! Now the failure mode is the fan runs at high speed constantly, which results in lower fuel mileage. But how far does one have to drive to spend an extra $600 on fuel? Methinks if I can't get it to work I am better off letting it run on high speed. But do let us know what you find out, Roger.

Al Colby

2000 intrigue.

Re: Fan ctroller

Reply #8 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83650
The real problem with running at high fan speed is it puts a strain on your radiator physically. If you have an aluminum type it will fail sooner. When mine failed I took out a straight edge and you could see a 1/4 to 3/8" bow in different areas of the surface, where the new replacement was perfectly flat. I ran mine a total of about 4,000 miles coming home from New Hampshire and on my way to Eugene when the radiator failed near Napa California.
TWI 2004 Intrigue 11731

Re: Fan controller

Reply #9 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83654
These connectors are made or at least mine is made by Deutsch. I also use them for connections to the DC air conditioners my company makes. If you call their distributor, they usually sample some. The only hard part is they require a special crimp tool. Sometimes you can solder the wires in the crimp connections but it is not easy. Once you get the wires in the pins, the rest is fairly easy. Their distributor is Ladd Industries at http://laddinc.com
If you can't get them from Ladd, email me at jon@... and I'll see what I can do. Deutsch also makes the terminators for the J1939 communications.

Jon Baum

Magna 2K 5923

Re: Fan ctroller

Reply #10 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83662
Al,

Depending on price of fuel your break even is probably between 8,000 and 10,000 miles. It would drive me nuts both because of the noise and the sluggishness of performance due to the loss of about 30 HP'
When I bought one from Berendsen Fluid Power in Atlanta(http://www.bfpna.com/locations/locationInfo.asp?country=USA) a couple of years ago, the cost was $425.

Good luck.

George in Birmingham
'03 Magna 6298
George in Birmingham
2003 Magna 6298

Re: Fan ctroller

Reply #11 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83674
I recently had my Sauer-Danfoss fan controller replaced. My temps always ran 195-205 and my mileage, according to the Silverleaf, was around 8 mpg on a freeway from the day I bought my coach. About a year and a half ago the water temp went to 180 or so and my tranny was about 15 degrees cooler and my fan was on most of the time. The best mileage I could get was 7 mpg and it was usually around 6.5 or so. Had the controller replaced in Oregon and drove to Pismo Beach. I reset my trip on the Silverleaf in Weed when I fueled up and it shows 8.6 mpg to here and my temps are back to 195-205. I'll be pulling the Cuesta grade this morning and I'll see if my horsepower has improved.

Dan 06 Intrigue 11936

Re: Fan ctroller

Reply #12 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83676
Reading all the posts about the Fan Controller, I want to understand what occurs with the controller.
When I start up a cold engine, I should not have much of a sound coming from the area of the radiator. When I drive in what could be normal freeway traffic, my coolant temp should be around 190-195. Any type of hard climb or high heat, I would expect the coolant temp should rise to 205-215 and the fan controller should kick in and cool down the coolant. If I start up my cold engine and hear what would be a louder than normal fan noise, I probably have a fan controller, that is not operating properly? If I have a temp lower than 190-195 lets say around 180 in normal traffic, the controller is on and it should not be?
I read in posts that this Fan Controller, is about as hard to get to as anything. It is in the area of the motor that is extremely hard to get at and change or test. For those that have replaced, messed with or tried to get at... where is it at? Do you get at from underneath the coach, from the top (via the closet)?
Dave

07 Country Coach Allure 430 #31495 12 Jeep GC Toad Mountains of So Cal
Dave & Jodi
2007 CC Allure 40’ Tag #31495
2012 Jeep GC
Big Bear Lake, Ca & Henderson, Nev

Re: Fan ctroller

Reply #13 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83677
Dave, the test is quite simple. Mine took about 20 minutes. I was also lucky in that I got a controller on ebay for less tha $150 delivered.

Can't tell you where it is located though.

George

'04 Inspire 51061

Re: Fan ctroller

Reply #14 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83678
Dave:

Feel free to give me a call when you get a few minutes.

Kevin Waite
541-953-6162

Re: Fan ctroller

Reply #15 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83684
Dave,

I have just put a file out on the "Files" of this group. It is called "Fan presentation". It should answer many of your questions.

George in Birmingham
'03 Magna 6298
George in Birmingham
2003 Magna 6298

Re: Fan ctroller

Reply #16 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83689
George,

Thanks for that info...now I can go look for it.. Another post by Al Colby, said if a piece of paper is held in place by the fan from the outside screen the fan is on high. I need to test that theory on mine.
Dave

07 Country Coach Allure 430 #31495 12 Jeep GC Toad Mountains of So Cal
Dave & Jodi
2007 CC Allure 40’ Tag #31495
2012 Jeep GC
Big Bear Lake, Ca & Henderson, Nev

Re: Fan ctroller

Reply #17 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83690
A while back, I pulled out my fan controller and cleaned the connectors. As I recall, it required the removal of four screws that mounted it to the coach, plus the electrical connector. Not a big deal on my coach.

Larry, 03 Allure, 30856
 

Re: Fan ctroller

Reply #18 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83730
The access to the connectors on the fan controller are not that hard to get to but I did get down on the ground on my back to see the connectors. On my C-9 the dealer use the computer connectors to test the controller and that was not a big deal. The controller on the C-9 is difficult to change out because the radiator shroud is in the way. Some have cut out an access panel to make the job easier and also any future change outs.
I purchased my controller from Fluid Power Systems ?? a couple of years ago for $385. The shops will mark it up.

Dan 2006 Allure 31348 (C-9)