Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: The saga of the non-retracting step cover (Read 856 times) previous topic - next topic
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

The saga of the non-retracting step cover

Yahoo Message Number: 15968
Well, as I reported in a previous post, I thought I had my step cover fixed, but it started acting up on me again. I previously changed the switch, and a few wire connectors going to the switch.
It used to work intermitently, but now it won't retract at all.
This happened (permenently broke) after I played with some wires down around the motor. I took the motor out, but didn't see anything obvious. I guess if the motor works to extend the step cover, then it must be OK. I'm wondering about the limit switch located inside the rail in the electrical bay. I think this switch is the one that would prevent the step cover from retracting. It apparently shuts off the motor when the cover has reached it's retracted limit. Hence, maybe it's stuck in the off position. I think the extended side of the system is electrically independent from the retraction side. I sent CC an email for assistance and since I don't have one, I asked if they could send me the wiring diagram for this system. As previously suggested here, I also tried applying force on the step cover while activating the switch, but it still didn't work. If anyone has some revelations on this problem, I would be happy to listen. Thanks.

Larry, Debbie, Tiki and Tomi (Pugs) USAF Retired

2003 Allure #30856

Re: The saga of the non-retracting step cover

Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 15970
Quote from: Larry Feather"
r />]
Larry,

You are correct in your analysis of the operation. Mounted on the rail is a metal, oblong, black bubble which houses some wire connections. At one point, one wire is connected to two with one of those plastic crimp connecters. This is where I found the problem.
These wires go to the limit switches I believe. Anyway, lousy connections result in intermittent operation. Suggest you check further.

Lyle Wetherholt
04 Intrigue 11740

Re: The saga of the non-retracting step cover

Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 15973
Larry,

Not sure if the 03 is same as 00 but the print on mine shows the actuator and switch as one unit with a description that indicates it travels 24 inches. It appears that the stop switch is an integral part of the actuator on the diagram number S0573 which is included with my coach.

It shows four wires running from switch to actuator, two for each direction (a + and a - wire I believe. Wire numbers are: (1) #385 (red) this connects to a white wire on the actuator (2) #388 (yellow) which connects to blk/red on the actuator (3) #386 (blue) connects to red on the actuator (4) #387 (black) connects to black on the actuator These four wires go from the the cover switch through Plug SS to the connections on the actuator.

The actuator with stop switch CC part number is 14699, not sure this is same as yours or not but hope this helps.

Ray

Quote from: Larry Feather
>

Well, as I reported in a previous post, I thought I had my step > cover fixed, but it started acting up on me again. I previously > changed the switch, and a few wire connectors going to the

switch.

Quote
It used to work intermitently, but now it won't retract at all.
This happened (permenently broke) after I played with some wires > down around the motor. I took the motor out, but didn't see > anything obvious. I guess if the motor works to extend the step > cover, then it must be OK. I'm wondering about the limit switch > located inside the rail in the electrical bay. I think this

switch

Quote
is the one that would prevent the step cover from retracting. It > apparently shuts off the motor when the cover has reached it's > retracted limit. Hence, maybe it's stuck in the off position. I > think the extended side of the system is electrically independent > from the retraction side. I sent CC an email for assistance and > since I don't have one, I asked if they could send me the wiring > diagram for this system. As previously suggested here, I also

tried

Quote
applying force on the step cover while activating the switch, but

it

Quote
still didn't work. If anyone has some revelations on this

problem,

Re: The saga of the non-retracting step cover

Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 15984
Thanks Lylewet and Tavman100

Yes I played with the wires in the "black bubble" box on the rail.
Those connections looked pretty squirrelly. The one that had two wires into one gave me some problems. I accidentally pulled the yellow wire from the motor loose from that connector. This is the ground wire that goes directly into the motor. I couldn't satisfactorily reconnect it the connector, so I just grounded it to the frame with one of the black bubble screws. My short arms are really stretching under there to work in that area. Hard to get two hands stretched out that far. Need to figure out a way to get a meter on those wires. Travman100 gave me some good info on wire numbers, so maybe I can go from there. Might get a diagram from CC too. Sounds like I may have to revisit the black bubble where all the wires go to. It just didn't look too healthy in there and since that's where Lylewet had his problem, I'm convinced to go back to it. That box is a bear to reinstall if the motor is in. I had to take out the motor just so I could line up the screws with the holes.
Thanks again for all the help.

Larry, Debbie, Tiki and Tomi (Pugs) USAF Retired

2003 Allure #30856

Quote from: Lyle Wetherholt
>

[quote author=Larry Feather"

Larry,

You are correct in your analysis of the operation. Mounted on the > rail is a metal, oblong, black bubble which houses some wire > connections. At one point, one wire is connected to two with one of > those plastic crimp connecters. This is where I found the problem.
These wires go to the limit switches I believe. Anyway, lousy > connections result in intermittent operation. Suggest you check

further.

Quote
Lyle Wetherholt
04 Intrigue 11740
>

> Well, as I reported in a previous post, I thought I had my step > > cover fixed, but it started acting up on me again. I previously > > changed the switch, and a few wire connectors going to the

switch.

Quote
It used to work intermitently, but now it won't retract at all.
> This happened (permenently broke) after I played with some wires > > down around the motor. I took the motor out, but didn't see > > anything obvious. I guess if the motor works to extend the step > > cover, then it must be OK. I'm wondering about the limit switch > > located inside the rail in the electrical bay. I think this

switch

Quote
is the one that would prevent the step cover from retracting. It > > apparently shuts off the motor when the cover has reached it's > > retracted limit. Hence, maybe it's stuck in the off position. I > > think the extended side of the system is electrically independent > > from the retraction side. I sent CC an email for assistance and > > since I don't have one, I asked if they could send me the wiring > > diagram for this system. As previously suggested here, I also

tried

Quote
applying force on the step cover while activating the switch, but

it

Quote
still didn't work. If anyone has some revelations on this

problem,

Re: The saga of the non-retracting step cover

Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 15989
Quote from: Larry Feather"
r />]
Larry,

You may find it a lot easier to work on if you just remove the whole assembly. Cut the wires up high if you remove the assembly. This will give you long ends to work on under the coach and you won't have to reach so far. Then connect one end of a four pin trailer wiring plug to that end. When the assembly is on the bench connect the other end of the four pin plug to the wires exiting the assembly. This will permit easy re-installation. While on the bench you can re-do the crimp connectors with a more satisfactory connection. The whole job took us about 1.5 hours.

Lyle Wetherholt
04 Intrigue 11740

Re: The saga of the non-retracting step cover

Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 16005
Lyle

When you're talking about removing the whole assembly, are you talking about the motor and gear assembly, or are you talking that and the limit switches too? If I cut the wires "high", it sounds like you're talking about next to the rail where the bubble box is.
I must be missing something because it sounds like that would leave me high wires to work with hanging from inside the rail. Maybe my coach is different than yours. I like your idea of using a trailer plug. I got a WD from CC (S0573)dated 10-11-04 but the effectivity (starting with #11883)does not apply to my coach #30856. It shows a black wire and a white wire going to one of the limit swithces, and a red wire and a black/red wire going to the other limit switch. With the orientation of the drawing, it's not abvious to me which limit switch is for closing and opening. I also asked CC via email if they could verify the drawing they sent me applies to my coach. I'm going out of town tomorrow and will be back this weekend to attack this problem again. Thanks for all your help

Quote from: Lyle Wetherholt
>

[quote author=Larry Feather"

Larry,

You may find it a lot easier to work on if you just remove the whole > assembly. Cut the wires up high if you remove the assembly. This > will give you long ends to work on under the coach and you won't

have

Quote
to reach so far. Then connect one end of a four pin trailer wiring > plug to that end. When the assembly is on the bench connect the

other

Quote
end of the four pin plug to the wires exiting the assembly. This

will

Quote
permit easy re-installation. While on the bench you can re-do the > crimp connectors with a more satisfactory connection. The whole job > took us about 1.5 hours.
Lyle Wetherholt
04 Intrigue 11740
>

> Thanks Lylewet and Tavman100
>

> Yes I played with the wires in the "black bubble" box on the

rail.

Quote
Those connections looked pretty squirrelly. The one that had two > > wires into one gave me some problems. I accidentally pulled the > > yellow wire from the motor loose from that connector. This is

the

Quote
ground wire that goes directly into the motor. I couldn't > > satisfactorily reconnect it the connector, so I just grounded it

to

Quote
the frame with one of the black bubble screws. My short arms are > > really stretching under there to work in that area. Hard to get

two

Quote
hands stretched out that far. Need to figure out a way to get a > > meter on those wires. Travman100 gave me some good info on wire > > numbers, so maybe I can go from there. Might get a diagram from

CC

Quote
too. Sounds like I may have to revisit the black bubble where

all

Quote
the wires go to. It just didn't look too healthy in there and

since

Quote
that's where Lylewet had his problem, I'm convinced to go back to > > it. That box is a bear to reinstall if the motor is in. I had

to

Quote
take out the motor just so I could line up the screws with the

holes.

Quote
Thanks again for all the help.
>

> Larry, Debbie, Tiki and Tomi (Pugs) > > USAF Retired

> 2003 Allure #30856
>
>
>
>
>

[quote author=Lyle Wetherholt"
>]
> >
> >

[quote author=Larry Feather"
> >]
> > Larry,

> > You are correct in your analysis of the operation. Mounted on

the

Quote
> rail is a metal, oblong, black bubble which houses some wire > > > connections. At one point, one wire is connected to two with

one of

Quote
> those plastic crimp connecters. This is where I found the

problem.

Quote
> These wires go to the limit switches I believe. Anyway, lousy > > > connections result in intermittent operation. Suggest you

check

Quote
further.
> > Lyle Wetherholt
> > 04 Intrigue 11740
> > >

> > > Well, as I reported in a previous post, I thought I had my

step

Quote
> > cover fixed, but it started acting up on me again. I

previously

Quote
> > changed the switch, and a few wire connectors going to the > > switch.

> > > It used to work intermitently, but now it won't retract at

all.

Quote
> > This happened (permenently broke) after I played with some

wires

Quote
> > down around the motor. I took the motor out, but didn't see > > > > anything obvious. I guess if the motor works to extend the

step

Quote
> > cover, then it must be OK. I'm wondering about the limit

switch

Quote
> > located inside the rail in the electrical bay. I think this > > switch

> > > is the one that would prevent the step cover from
retracting. It

Quote
> > apparently shuts off the motor when the cover has reached

it's

Quote
> > retracted limit. Hence, maybe it's stuck in the off

position. I

Quote
> > think the extended side of the system is electrically

independent

Quote
> > from the retraction side. I sent CC an email for assistance

and

Quote
> > since I don't have one, I asked if they could send me the

wiring

Quote
> > diagram for this system. As previously suggested here, I

also

Quote
tried

> > > applying force on the step cover while activating the switch,

but

Re: The saga of the non-retracting step cover

Reply #6 –
Yahoo Message Number: 16007
Quote from: Larry Feather"
r />]
Larry,

Not that high! If your assenbly is like mine it will all come out as one unit. The motor is attached to the rail and limit switches are inside the rail. The point of cuting somewhat high is to leave plenty of length on the other end to make it easy to wire in the trailer plug. When you have the assembly out and on the bench it is easy to attach the other end of the plug. Leave enough room for that process.
Again, the rail, motor, worm screw etc. is all one assembly. If you look up and to the right of the wires you will see a black steel plate about 10 inches wide and 16 inches long. It is attached with a few bolts. Upon removing it you will see the end that connects to the stair cover. It all comes apart quite easily. The only difficult part is the other end which is in the elec bay (front left) where you have to demount the fuse box and let it hang loose while you remove the bulkhead that the rail passes through. If you pass thru Las Cruces I will be happy to review things with you.

Lyle Wetherholt
04 Intrigue 11740
 

Re: The saga of the non-retracting step cover

Reply #7 –
Yahoo Message Number: 16019
Lyle

OK, I get it now! Thanks for the clarification! I was wondering about the bulkhead in the electrical bay. Wasn't sure I should remove that because of the fuse box. And, mine hase sealent on the front part of the bulkhead, but I guess I can cut that out. I might be able to get to whatever I need there without taking out the rail. But it doesent look that hard any way. Thanks so much for your help. I'll let you know how it all turns out.

Larry, Debbie, Tiki and Tomi (Pugs) USAF Retired

2003 Allure #30856

Quote from: Lyle Wetherholt
>

Quote from: Larry Feather"

Larry,

Not that high! If your assenbly is like mine it will all come out [/quote
ll come out

as

Quote
one unit. The motor is attached to the rail and limit switches are > inside the rail. The point of cuting somewhat high is to leave

plenty

Quote
of length on the other end to make it easy to wire in the trailer > plug. When you have the assembly out and on the bench it is easy

to

Quote
attach the other end of the plug. Leave enough room for that

process.

Quote
Again, the rail, motor, worm screw etc. is all one assembly. If

you

Quote
look up and to the right of the wires you will see a black steel

plate

Quote
about 10 inches wide and 16 inches long. It is attached with a few > bolts. Upon removing it you will see the end that connects to the > stair cover. It all comes apart quite easily. The only difficult > part is the other end which is in the elec bay (front left) where

you

Quote
have to demount the fuse box and let it hang loose while you remove > the bulkhead that the rail passes through. If you pass thru Las > Cruces I will be happy to review things with you.
Lyle Wetherholt
04 Intrigue 11740
>

> Lyle
>

> When you're talking about removing the whole assembly, are you > > talking about the motor and gear assembly, or are you talking

that

Quote
and the limit switches too? If I cut the wires "high", it

sounds

Quote
like you're talking about next to the rail where the bubble box

is.

Quote
I must be missing something because it sounds like that would

leave

Quote
me high wires to work with hanging from inside the rail. Maybe

my

Quote
coach is different than yours. I like your idea of using a

trailer

Quote
plug. I got a WD from CC (S0573)dated 10-11-04 but the

effectivity

Quote
(starting with #11883)does not apply to my coach #30856. It

shows a

Quote
black wire and a white wire going to one of the limit swithces,

and a

Quote
red wire and a black/red wire going to the other limit switch.

With

Quote
the orientation of the drawing, it's not abvious to me which

limit

Quote
switch is for closing and opening. I also asked CC via email if

they

Quote
could verify the drawing they sent me applies to my coach. I'm

going

Quote
out of town tomorrow and will be back this weekend to attack

this

Quote
problem again. Thanks for all your help > >
>
>

[quote author=Lyle Wetherholt"
>]
> >
> >

[quote author=Larry Feather"
> >]
> > Larry,

> > You may find it a lot easier to work on if you just remove the

whole

Quote
> assembly. Cut the wires up high if you remove the assembly.

This

Quote
> will give you long ends to work on under the coach and you

won't

Quote
have

> > to reach so far. Then connect one end of a four pin trailer

wiring

Quote
> plug to that end. When the assembly is on the bench connect

the

Quote
other

> > end of the four pin plug to the wires exiting the assembly.

This

Quote
will

> > permit easy re-installation. While on the bench you can re-do

the

Quote
> crimp connectors with a more satisfactory connection. The

whole job

Quote
> took us about 1.5 hours.
> > Lyle Wetherholt
> > 04 Intrigue 11740
> > >

> > > Thanks Lylewet and Tavman100 > > > >

> > > Yes I played with the wires in the "black bubble" box on the > > rail.

> > > Those connections looked pretty squirrelly. The one that

had two

Quote
> > wires into one gave me some problems. I accidentally pulled

the

Quote
> > yellow wire from the motor loose from that connector. This

is

Quote
the

> > > ground wire that goes directly into the motor. I couldn't > > > > satisfactorily reconnect it the connector, so I just

grounded it

Quote
to

> > > the frame with one of the black bubble screws. My short

arms are

Quote
> > really stretching under there to work in that area. Hard to

get

Quote
two

> > > hands stretched out that far. Need to figure out a way to

get a

Quote
> > meter on those wires. Travman100 gave me some good info on

wire

Quote
> > numbers, so maybe I can go from there. Might get a diagram

from

Quote
CC

> > > too. Sounds like I may have to revisit the black bubble

where

Quote
all

> > > the wires go to. It just didn't look too healthy in there

and

Quote
since

> > > that's where Lylewet had his problem, I'm convinced to go

back to

Quote
> > it. That box is a bear to reinstall if the motor is in. I

had

Quote
to

> > > take out the motor just so I could line up the screws with

the

Quote
holes.

> > > Thanks again for all the help.
> > >

> > > Larry, Debbie, Tiki and Tomi (Pugs) > > > > USAF Retired

> > > 2003 Allure #30856
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >

Quote from: Lyle[/quote

Wetherholt"

Quote
> >]
> > > >
> > > >

Quote from: Larry[/quote

Feather"

Quote
> > >]
> > > > Larry,

> > > > You are correct in your analysis of the operation.

Mounted on

Quote
the

> > > > rail is a metal, oblong, black bubble which houses some

wire

Quote
> > > connections. At one point, one wire is connected to two

with

Quote
one of

> > > > those plastic crimp connecters. This is where I found the > > problem.

> > > > These wires go to the limit switches I believe. Anyway,

lousy

Quote
> > > connections result in intermittent operation. Suggest you > > check

> > > further.

> > > > Lyle Wetherholt
> > > > 04 Intrigue 11740
> > > > >

> > > > > Well, as I reported in a previous post, I thought I had

my

Quote
step

> > > > > cover fixed, but it started acting up on me again. I > > previously

> > > > > changed the switch, and a few wire connectors going to

the

Quote
> > switch.

> > > > > It used to work intermitently, but now it won't retract

at

Quote
all.

> > > > > This happened (permenently broke) after I played with

some

Quote
wires

> > > > > down around the motor. I took the motor out, but didn't

see

Quote
> > > > anything obvious. I guess if the motor works to extend

the

Quote
step

> > > > > cover, then it must be OK. I'm wondering about the

limit

Quote
switch

> > > > > located inside the rail in the electrical bay. I think

this

Quote
> > switch

> > > > > is the one that would prevent the step cover from > > retracting. It

> > > > > apparently shuts off the motor when the cover has

reached

Quote
it's

> > > > > retracted limit. Hence, maybe it's stuck in the off > > position. I

> > > > > think the extended side of the system is electrically > > independent

> > > > > from the retraction side. I sent CC an email for

assistance

Quote
and

> > > > > since I don't have one, I asked if they could send me

the

Quote
wiring

> > > > > diagram for this system. As previously suggested here,

I

Quote
also
> > > tried

> > > > > applying force on the step cover while activating the

switch,

Quote
but
> > > it

> > > > > still didn't work. If anyone has some revelations on

this