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Inadequate Front A/C

Yahoo Message Number: 2306
I have been discussing this with Damon offline and he suggested I pose this question in this group and see if anyone has had similar problems and found a solution.

I own a 1999 Allure 40' LaPine. Anytime that I am in an area where the outside, ambient temperature is high, it is impossible to bring the interior temperature in my motorhome down to the low 70s. It has been this way since I bought the motorhome in August, 1998. I have had it looked at by the Country Coach factory in October, 2001 and they have sent me twice to Dometic's Warranty Service Center (I believe in Sturgis, MI) in the fall of 1998 and again about six months later. I have also had it looked at by a local dealer (not a CC dealer) who is an authorized warranty station for Dometic. About the best I can ever do in the front of the coach is approximately eighteen to twenty degrees below the outside ambient temperature.
On more than one occasion I have had a dealer or the factory tell me that that's about all I can expect to do. Personal experience with other coaches, however, has made me discover that that is not the case.

Let me give you a couple of examples. Last summer I went to meet some friends at an RV part in northeastern Oklahoma at Grand Lake.
I left my house fairly early in the morning when the outside temperature was about 70 degrees. I started the generator and ran both roof airs while enroute in order to get ahead of the game. By late afternoon while parked at the lake campground with both air conditioners going and had had them going continuously since leaving, the outside temperature reached about 101 degrees. The coldest it ever got in the front of the motorhome was about 82 to 83 degrees.

I travel occasionally with my brother-in-law who has a Monaco Signature (40-foot) and even without his third a/c he can get his motorhome down to 70 degrees in most any weather.

While I was recently at the FMCA International Area in San Antonio, I stopped by a Buddy Gregg display coach (40' double-slide Allure) during the heat of the day and the coach's thermostat was set at 68 degrees, but it was not 68 degrees inside---I would guess about 75- 76 degrees and the a/c was running full tilt. In the same display area was an American Eagle (40' double-slide) with its thermostat set at 68 degrees. In that coach you could have hung meat if you wanted to.

I have contemplated two possible solutions to my problem. (1) Install a third a/c unit in the opening where the Fantastic Fan is in the galley area. This unit would probably not be tied into the ductwork but just allowed to dump its output into the forward part of the coach; or (2) replace the front a/c unit with one of the new 15,000 BTU low-profile Penguin units. Until very recently, #2 was not an option inasmuch as there was no such thing as a 15M BTU low- profile unit. My hesitation about this is that I cannot get anyone-- dealer or factory--to even give me an educated guess as to whether this will solve my problem.

I am an extremely loyal CC owner and have thought about ordering a new coach, but the factory will not install 15M BTU Penguins on Allures or Intrigues as an option (even though they are standard equipment on the new Magnas and Affinitys). Does the factory think there is less cubic feet of space to cool in a 40' double-slide Allure/Intrigue than in the same Magna?
One option that has been presented to me by Buddy Gregg is a Dynasty which they will have built with three a/c units and a 12.5KW generator. Sorting my options is not easy.

In any event, is this inadequate front a/c unique to my coach? If not, what have you done about it?

Thanks for listening.

Brian Davis
Coach #30282

Re: Inadequate Front A/C

Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2310
Brian,

We once had a 35' safari that would not cool below 82 degrees when we were in southern Florida at 101 degrees. So we got out of there as soon as possible and we found very few people staying there at that temperature. Our 2001 Magna does fine in central Florida in July but I'm not sure about southern Florida because we do not go there in the summer anymore.

Bill G.

Re: Inadequate Front A/C

Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2311
Hi Bill,

That's why I believed for so long the story I was fed: "You can't expect better than 18-20 degrees below the outside temperature." But, as I said in my previous post, personal experience with other coaches has proven that statement to be wrong.

Brian

=====================

gablerwh@a... wrote:

Quote
Brian,

We once had a 35' safari that would not cool below 82 degrees when

we were in

Quote
southern Florida at 101 degrees. So we got out of there as soon as

possible

Quote
and we found very few people staying there at that temperature.

Our 2001

Quote
Magna does fine in central Florida in July but I'm not sure about

southern

Re: Inadequate Front A/C

Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2315
Quote
In any event, is this inadequate front a/c unique to my coach? If > not, what have you done about it? >

Thanks for listening.

Brian Davis
Coach #30282

Brian

I have a 2000 Allure Chandler single slide. We live in Florida and in the month that we have owned it we have had no problem in cooling down the inside. My two cents worth.....Before you go and replace ac units, check and see what the air temp is coming out each of your ac units is. Once the system is up and operating for about 20 minutes, you should see between 50-60F. I measured mine during the 4th weekend parked in a park near Cresent City, FL on the St. John's River. It was 50F front and 52F on the rear with an outside temperature of 93F. Coach was in full sun and we maintained a comfortable 76F inside with no problem. AC units cycled on and off once temp was attained.

I think if you are getting those kind of temps in the vent that comes directly under the unit, then your problem may not be the units. It may be an air distribution or a themal problem with the coach (windows, windshield, etc). Thus, the relationship of temperature pull down range (20F) that everyone uses to measure the effectiveness on the AC systems.

Additionally, you should also expect the dash AC to provide the same temp output.

I find on my Allure that if I close the main vent on the rear unit in the bedroom it forces air to be distributed to the smaller aux vents via the ducting system. Then by closing some of the rearest most aux vents, I can force the air from the rear AC unit towards the front of the coach. I do this in reverse at night. I turn on the front AC unit and the bedroom one off when we go to bed. All the air from the front then goes into the bedroom or what ever configuration we set up the aux vents. No noise in the bedroom at night and wife does not get cold.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Jim Hughes

Jacksonville, FL

2000 Allure 40' #30511

Re: Inadequate Front A/C

Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2316
Quote
Brian

I have a 2000 Allure Chandler single slide. We live in Florida

and

Quote
in the month that we have owned it we have had no problem in

cooling

Quote
down the inside.

Hi Jim,

I am in agreement with everything that you say, and I do the same with my Allure as you do with yours with respect to forcing air from the back to the front and vice versa at night.
It has been a long time since I have measured the air temperature of the air coming from the a/c unit. I will do that as soon as it really heats back up here (if it's before I leave town). I also agree that the problem may not be in the unit itself, but rather a thermal problem. Because that very well may be so, it is very difficult to troubleshoot. For instance, I THINK, if it were only 93 degrees here, I could probably get to and maintain 76 degrees inside. But don't think I could do that at 101 degrees ambient temp.
It also makes it near impossible for professionals to troubleshoot as well because it is very difficult to duplicate the conditions here either at the CC factory in Junction City, OR or at the Dometic facility in Sturgis, MI. Those places are NEVER going to have the type of climatological environment I am talking about. And even if I take it somewhere similar, they always put it in a service bay to work on and that immediately removes direct exposure to the sun from the equation.

That's why I am trying to get someone to give me an estimate about the relative efficacy of a 15M BTU unit to a 13.5BTU unit. That is an 11.11% increase in BTUs, but is it likely to overcome my problem? If the problem is not in the unit itself, then I feel any other shortcoming is most likely to go undiscovered (because is not been obvious in four years of ownership) and my only alternative is to overpower it.

Here it part of my rationale for two 13.5BTU units maybe not being adequate for a coach of this size. Go back to the pre-slide out days and you will see that most high-line motorhomes that were up to and including 40 feet in length were fitted with two 13.5 BTU units.
Motorhomes longer than 40 feet--42 feet, 43 feet, and 45 feet were always fitted with three 13.5 BTU units. Logic would tell me that that was because there was more cubic feet of space to cool in a 42, 43 or 45 foot motorhome and two units would be inadequate. Then we enter the era of the slide-out. I haven't made the measurement, but it seems to me that a 40 foot motorhome with one slide-out has about the same amount of volume to cool as a 42 foot non-slide.
Furthermore the slideout itself when extended cannot be as well insulated as that same volume as part of a non-slide motorhome. If that is the case, it seems to me that three units (or at least two 15M BTU units) is as necessary for the 40 foot, one slideout motorhome as for the 42 foot non-slide motorhome. I just think the 40 foot slideout motorhomes were not equipped with three units in order to maintain a price point. That third a/c unit and all of the wiring preparation and the requirement for a larger generator would all push the retail MSRP up beyond a point the manufacturer did not want to go.

Brian

Re: Inadequate Front A/C

Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2317
Our experience with our 40' Intrigue w/2 slides has been amazement at the efficiency orf the insulation. We couldn't believe it the day we off-loaded our Southwind onto our new CC in San Diego. All day in high 80s temp outside with door open all day and did not need any cooling. Remained cool all day.
Our recent experience in Las Vegas with outside temperature reading 106 on the front thermometer and both slides out, we used only front air conditioner set on 80 and were comfortable. At night we used the same setting but diverted it into the vents and closed the forward and opened up the rear ones. Have not had to use both air conditioners at same time yet.

We have nothing but accolades for our's.

ron and molly '01 Intrigue San Diego

Re: Inadequate Front A/C

Reply #6 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2318
Our experience with our 40' Intrigue w/2 slides has been amazement at the efficiency of the insulation. We couldn't believe it the day we off-loaded our Southwind onto our new CC in San Diego. All day in high 80s temp outside with door open all day and did not need any cooling. Remained cool all day.
Our recent experience in Las Vegas with outside temperature reading 106 on the front thermometer and both slides out, we used only front air conditioner set on 80 and were comfortable. At night we used the same setting but diverted it into the vents and closed the forward and opened up the rear ones. Have not had to use both air conditioners at same time yet.

We have nothing but accolades for ours.

Ron and Molly '01 Intrigue San Diego

Re: Inadequate Front A/C

Reply #7 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2319
No problems with our 2001 Intrigue with 2 slides, either...we've been in 105 temps in Yuma for 5 days and are now in 103+ in Bend, OR and we're comfy...BUT we make sure to have our sunscreen on the windshield when parked facing the sun and when there's max sun on the front, I'll close the drapes. Also, pull down the awnings when needed...but we've always been cool in extreme temps. I can't remember what the BTUs are for these units and if they're different from the earlier Allures...that might make a diff.

BTW..we have found (via FMCA's mag) a neat way to make the bedroom cooler & darker is to fit "FoamBoard" into the window casings...makes a big diff for sleeping and cooling. The back AC never came on yesterday in this triple digit heat.

Jan McNeill

2001 Intrigue 11320

Re: Inadequate Front A/C

Reply #8 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2320
For Brian Davis. I would pull out the TV and look and see if the insullation had been completed in the front end of the coach. I had to add some in my Intrigue when I went into that upper area to do some communications wiring.
I used about two rolls of fibreglass insullation to complete what apparently was a bad day for one of their workers. you can access the front area there very easily by removing the tv, at least on mine. While there, I also cut the "green" wire to the transformer switch for the ac for the tv, and it does not now turn off when i turn on the ingnition switch. good luck.

ron and molly '01 Intrigue san diego

Re: Inadequate Front A/C

Reply #9 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2324
Bodie6413 wrote:

"I would pull out the TV and look and see if the insullation had been completed in the front end of the coach. I had to add some in my Intrigue when I went into that upper area to do some communications wiring. I used about two rolls of fibreglass insullation to complete what apparently was a bad day for one of their workers."

==================================

Interesting that you should recommend this. Because our youngest son played college basketball, we haven't traveled via motorhome too much during very cold weather, even to warmer climes. However, on some winter trip I took, I DID notice some very cold air coming into the cockpit from around the television. So, while I was at the factory in late October of last year, I had them look at this and there was the same problem--no insulation behind the television.
They added additional insulation in this area. Since then, I have really not had the motorhome out in extremely hot weather, so when I leave next Wednesday we'll see if there seems to be any improvement as a result of this additional insulation.

Brian

Re: Inadequate Front A/C

Reply #10 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2327
I have had my Allure for 3 weeks and this is my first diesel. If I am wasting your times I apologize. I have had leaks from my A/C's and this seems to be a common problem for others too. I have just learned that Dometic makes a Penguin insulation kit that is used to seal places under the cover so that condensation will not go into the coach. I emailed Dometic this morning to get info about this kit. Just maybe it could be the answer to all of our problems??? In your case Brian perhaps heat is entering at the A/C which will certainly affect its efficiency. Again my apologies if what I think is nonsense.
On Sat, 13 Jul 2002 13:37:17 -0000 "bondaddy5191" bondaddy5191@...> writes:

Re: Inadequate Front A/C

Reply #11 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2329
Mike,

Please report back what you hear from Dometic re the Penguin insulation kit. I was at Dometic's warranty service site in Sturgis, MI in the fall of 1998 and again in the spring of 1999 and they didn't mention this item to me. Neither did the CC factory last fall. I'm looking for any help I can get. I've never had a problem with condensation entering the coach--just inadequate cooling.

Brian

==================================

mike Lewis wrote:

Quote
>I have just learned that

Dometic makes a Penguin insulation kit that is used to seal places

under

Quote
the cover so that condensation will not go into the coach. I

emailed

Re: Leaking condensate from AC units

Reply #12 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2330
I have had leaks from my A/C's and this
Quote
seems to be a common problem for others too. I have just learned

that

Quote
Dometic makes a Penguin insulation kit that is used to seal places

under

Quote
the cover so that condensation will not go into the coach. I

emailed

Quote
Dometic this morning to get info about this kit. Just maybe it

could be

Quote
the answer to all of our problems???
I also have leaks in both AC units. Especially the bedrooom and when I have the coach perfectly level. After about 45 minutes, the condensate begins to steadily drip onto the bed. I have been putting a plastic bag with a towel on top to catch it until I can get up on top to troubleshoot. I am veryinterested in learning what you find out about the kit.

Does anyone know if the is a special silicone sealant that is recommended for sealing in and around the AC cowlings? I picked up a couple of tubes of GE brand of silicone sealant for doors and windows at Home Depot yesterday. Plan to use that unless otherwise recommended. Any comments on troubleshooting and other fixes?

Jim Hughes

Jacksonville, FL

2000 Allure 40' #30511

Re: Leaking condensate from AC units

Reply #13 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2331
Condensate leaking into the motorhome is usually caused by faulty gasket around the roof top unit. Leaking will occur if the gasket is either not compressed enough or compressed too much and is most likely to leak if compressed too much and then the holding bolts have loosened. In that case, the gasket material will not expand back out and provide the proper seal. My installation instructions are on the coach, not here at my house, but if I remember correctly, each of the four holding bolts are to be tightened to 40-50 inch/lbs torque. (Please note this is 40-50 INCH/LBS not FT/LBS.
Occasionally one or more of the bolts will not stay torqued to the proper torque. In that event, you can take the bolt all the way out, put some blue Loctite on the end of the bolt and reattach the bolt to the proper torque. Do not use red Loctite or you will not be able to remove the bolt at a later date without a monumemtal struggle.

Brian Davis

1999 Allure #30282

=====================================

"I also have leaks in both AC units. Especially the bedrooom and when I have the coach perfectly level. After about 45 minutes, the condensate begins to steadily drip onto the bed. I have been putting a plastic bag with a towel on top to catch it until I can get up on top to troubleshoot. I am very interested in learning what you find out about the kit."

"Does anyone know if the is a special silicone sealant that is recommended for sealing in and around the AC cowlings? I picked up a couple of tubes of GE brand of silicone sealant for doors and windows at Home Depot yesterday. Plan to use that unless otherwise recommended. Any comments on troubleshooting and other fixes?"

Jim Hughes

Jacksonville, FL

2000 Allure 40' #30511

Re: Inadequate Front A/C

Reply #14 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2332
Brian, I think you have a point concerning 40 footers without slides and 40 footers with slides. I've owned three CC's and I haven't been too impressed with the air in any of them. My present 40 ft. '00 Magna with galley slide doesn't cool very well in triple digit weather. It keeps me fairly comfortable but will never cool below 80 degrees. I guess the mfg. never thought we would be dumb enough to stay in this weather when we have a MH that can go anywhere we want, ha. jerry in NM.

Re: Inadequate Front A/C

Reply #15 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2334
Brought the coach home from storage today to get ready for a trip, and my a/c situation was typical. The maximum temperature here today was 94 degrees (not a hot day for Oklahoma)and sitting in my driveway with both roof airs going with thermostats set at 70 degrees, the coldest it got in the front part of the coach was 78.4 degrees. At one point, it was 64 degrees in the bedroom (but that's another story I won't go into now). I might add that no one went into or out of the motorhome between the hours of 11:30 am and 5:30 pm, and still the coldest it would get is 78.4 degrees. That performance it very typical for my coach---about 16 to 18 degrees better than the outside temp is all I've ever been able to get.

Brian Davis

1999 Allure #30282

Re: Inadequate Front A/C

Reply #16 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2335
"Please report back what you hear from Dometic re the Penguin insulation kit. I was at Dometic's warranty service site in Sturgis, MI in the fall of 1998 and again in the spring of 1999 and they didn't mention this item to me. Neither did the CC factory last fall. I'm looking for any help I can get. I've never had a problem with condensation entering the coach--just inadequate cooling."

-----------------

I had excessive condensation entering the coach and recieved a .pdf file from another newsgroup which details how to prevent this from rehappening. A service bulletin from Dometic.

I loaded this file on Country-Coach-Owners newsgroup under files. I followed the steps and no longer have condensate leaks.

Sincerely

George W Becker

gwb36@... 1999 Country Coach Intrigue #10700

Re: Leaking condensate from AC units

Reply #17 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2336
"I also have leaks in both AC units. Especially the bedrooom and when I have the coach perfectly level. After about 45 minutes, the condensate begins to steadily drip onto the bed. I have been putting a plastic bag with a towel on top to catch it until I can get up on top to troubleshoot. I am veryinterested in learning what you find out about the kit."
-------------

Go to files section of this newsgroup and download penguinleak.pdf. It has steps to solve this problem.

Sincerely

George W Becker

gwb36@... 1999 Country Coach Intrigue #10700

Re: Inadequate Front A/C

Reply #18 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2345
I am sorry to relate that Dometic has just informed me that the insulation kit mentioned is no longer available...I had gotten the idea from a tech rep at CC and will let him know. As I care for my aged mother I still have not found time to get on the roof and take apart the AC to see why mine is weeping. Brian, have you contacted Dometic? Try them at techservice@.... They seem to have service centers and hopefully they could find out why your unit is not cooling enough.
Good luck.

On Sun, 14 Jul 2002 04:38:48 -0000 "bondaddy5191" bondaddy5191@...> writes:

Re: Inadequate Front A/C

Reply #19 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2346
I was just doing some things on my coach and decided to check by AC unit that was leaking condensation in the bedroom. After talking to Country Coach, they gave me some ideas and things to check. Would you know, the very first thing I checked may have been the cause all along. I found one of the four mounting bolts loose. I mean loose enough where there was space under the head of the bolt. Apparently the bolts will loosen up from the constant vibration. I tightened all the bolts as I watched the compression of the gasket on the roof. After getting the one that was loose down a few turns, I tighten all of them about 3 turns each and was still within the 1/2" minimum gasket thickness. This can all be done from inside the coach. I ran the AC's for about 2 hours using the genset and no leaks inside. There was plenty of condensate running off the roof though. It was 96F and very humid outside.
My understanding that the insulation kit everyone keeps talking about is nothing more than pipe insulation that is put on the tubing on the eveaporator line on the front part on the AC unit. It is similiar to the insulation sleeve stuff you use on exposed water pipes at home.
Supposedly it helps reduce the sweating on the evaporator lines.
However, if the AC unit is a heat pump, then I would think that the insulation would have to withstand the high temperatures of the system reversal which results in the tube getting hot. So I think the home water pipe stuff would not work well.

Jim Hughes

Jacksonville, FL

2000 Allure 40' #30511

Loose bolts and screws on the roof (cap)

Reply #20 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2347
Hi Jim,

You might look at the screws securing the tv antenna.
I found all of them so loose they were interfering with the ability to rotate the antenna. The holes were stripped and had to use larger diameter screws; to help keep them secured, I used liquid nails applied around the threads and a tab on top after each screw was tightened. I did not remove the existing pliable mastic (caulk) as it is important to prevent future leaks.
Fred Kovol

--- kc4fws kc4fws@...> wrote:

Quote
I was just doing some things on my coach and decided > to check by AC

unit that was leaking condensation in the bedroom.
After talking to

Country Coach, they gave me some ideas and things to > check. Would

you know, the very first thing I checked may have > been the cause all

along. I found one of the four mounting bolts > loose. I mean loose

enough where there was space under the head of the > bolt. Apparently

the bolts will loosen up from the constant > vibration. I tightened

all the bolts as I watched the compression of the > gasket on the

roof. After getting the one that was loose down a > few turns, I

tighten all of them about 3 turns each and was still > within the 1/2"

minimum gasket thickness. This can all be done from > inside the

coach. I ran the AC's for about 2 hours using the > genset and no

leaks inside. There was plenty of condensate > running off the roof

though. It was 96F and very humid outside.

My understanding that the insulation kit everyone > keeps talking about

is nothing more than pipe insulation that is put on > the tubing on the

eveaporator line on the front part on the AC unit.
It is similiar to

the insulation sleeve stuff you use on exposed water > pipes at home.

Supposedly it helps reduce the sweating on the > evaporator lines.

However, if the AC unit is a heat pump, then I would > think that the

insulation would have to withstand the high > temperatures of the

system reversal which results in the tube getting > hot. So I think

the home water pipe stuff would not work well.

Jim Hughes

Jacksonville, FL

2000 Allure 40' #30511

Re: Inadequate Front A/C

Reply #21 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2349
You lucky son of a gun! I hope my solution is so simple. Will be working on it on Monday. Do you need to remove the inside cover or just the filter holder to reach the bolts? I still want to remove the outside covers to see what the pans look like and to make sure that the drain lines are clear. Since B. Gregg is paying for the work may as well learn as much as possible. They have also agreed to replace the two house batteries! The local dealer only carries Interstate though. I think I would prefer 6v Trojans true golf car batteries...I did check out Interstate online and they do seem to have golf car batteries as well as commercial 8D's. Hope the local dealer can order any Interstates as I do not want the Marine batteries he has which I think are considered hybrids and are not so good...There are no Les Schwab tire dealers in this area and I am not so sure that the original 8D's are so good either. Now made by Exide and I do not like these big companies as they make so many different types. Any knowledge of batteries and recommendations? Re the insulation pipes: do you think that would still be helpful? I would think plumbing supply houses if not Home Depot might have the insulation pipes for heating pipes too.

Re the Silverleaf systems: I will pass on that as I really do not understand them and perhaps scared too of what I will learn! They cost a cool $thousand or two too and right now I am trying to get used to being poor again!!! Actually if I were to get a meter it would be a battery measuring meter like the Link 2000 or Bogart Trimetric. I do much boondocking and these type meters let you know how much amp hours you are adding and using. Tricky to hook up though so never added it to my previous Bounder. It would be better to have it once I am fulltiming. I have solar on my roof and Buddy Gregg added that to replace the unit I had on the Bounder. I only have one panel so far which is 100 amps.
Will add another one or two someday when we take off.
Have you weighed your coach? I just did and not too happy although their measurements are somewhat confusing. The sheet I got broke it down as if I have a tag axle too so I do not think it is accurate. Realized it afterwards and did not feel like driving back...As it is though the rear axle seems to be at its weight limit (full tank of water)! The front axle with a full gas tank has room but where can you add weight up front? I hope I am wrong as we have not packed clothes or food yet. There is no reason to travel with a full tank of water but still I expected better and it does not jive with the info that I originally received...Let the buyer beware!

On Fri, 19 Jul 2002 00:01:37 -0000 "kc4fws" kc4fws@...> writes:
 

Siverleaf products

Reply #22 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2351
Hi Mike,

You can buy a junction box (jib) from Silverleaf for $400 and connect it to your laptop, the software is a free internet download. It's more versatile as you can use windows to display other information such as maps (gps driven) in a split screen display.
Fred Kovol

--- mike Lewis rvmike@...> wrot

Quote
You lucky son of a gun! I hope mysolution is so > simple. Will b

working on it on Monday. Do you need to remove the > inside cover or just

the filter holder to reach the bolts? I still want > to remove the outside

covers to see what the pans look like and to make > sure that the drain

lines are clear. Since B. Gregg is paying for the > work may as well learn

as much as possible. They have also agreed to > replace the two house

batteries! The local dealer only carries Interstate > though. I think I

would prefer 6v Trojans true golf car batteries...I > did check out

Interstate online and they do seem to have golf car > batteries as well as

commercial 8D's. Hope the local dealer can order > any Interstates as I do

not want the Marine batteries he has which I think > are considered hybrids

and are not so good...There are no Les Schwab tire > dealers in this area

and I am not so sure that the original 8D's are so > good either. Now made

by Exide and I do not like these big companies as > they make so many

different types. Any knowledge of batteries and > recommendations? Re the

insulation pipes: do you think that would still be > helpful? I would

think plumbing supply houses if not Home Depot might > have the insulation

pipes for heating pipes too.

Re the Silverleaf systems: I will pass on that as I > really do not

understand them and perhaps scared too of what I > will learn! They cost a

cool $thousand or two too and right now I am trying > to get used to being

poor again!!! Actually if I were to get a meter it > would be a battery

measuring meter like the Link 2000 or Bogart > Trimetric. I do much

boondocking and these type meters let you know how > much amp hours you are

adding and using. Tricky to hook up though so never > added it to my

previous Bounder. It would be better to have it > once I am fulltiming. I

have solar on my roof and Buddy Gregg added that to > replace the unit I

had on the Bounder. I only have one panel so far > which is 100 amps.

Will add another one or two someday when we take > off.

Have you weighed your coach? I just did and not too > happy although their

measurements are somewhat confusing. The sheet I > got broke it down as if

I have a tag axle too so I do not think it is > accurate. Realized it

afterwards and did not feel like driving back...As > it is though the rear

axle seems to be at its weight limit (full tank of > water)! The front

axle with a full gas tank has room but where can you > add weight up front?

I hope I am wrong as we have not packed clothes or > food yet. There is

no reason to travel with a full tank of water but > still I expected better

and it does not jive with the info that I originally > received...Let the
buyer beware!

On Fri, 19 Jul 2002 00:01:37 -0000 "kc4fws" >kc4fws@...> writes:

> I was just doing some things on my coach and > decided to check by AC

> unit that was leaking condensation in the bedroom.
 After talking to
>

> Country Coach, they gave me some ideas and things > to check. Would

> you know, the very first thing I checked may have > been the cause all
>

> along. I found one of the four mounting bolts > loose. I mean loose
>

> enough where there was space under the head of the > bolt. Apparently
>

> the bolts will loosen up from the constant > vibration. I tightened

> all the bolts as I watched the compression of the > gasket on the

> roof. After getting the one that was loose down a > few turns, I

> tighten all of them about 3 turns each and was > still within the 1/2"
>

> minimum gasket thickness. This can all be done > from inside the

> coach. I ran the AC's for about 2 hours using the > genset and no

> leaks inside. There was plenty of condensate > running off the roof

> though. It was 96F and very humid outside.
>

> My understanding that the insulation kit everyone > keeps talking
> about

> is nothing more than pipe insulation that is put > on the tubing on
> the

> eveaporator line on the front part on the AC unit.
 It is similiar
> to

> the insulation sleeve stuff you use on exposed > water pipes at home.
>

> Supposedly it helps reduce the sweating on the > evaporator lines.

> However, if the AC unit is a heat pump, then I > would think that the
>

> insulation would have to withstand the high > temperatures of the

> system reversal which results in the tube getting > hot. So I think

> the home water pipe stuff would not work well.
>

> Jim Hughes

> Jacksonville, FL

> 2000 Allure 40' #30511
>
>
>
>