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Failed Dash A/C

Yahoo Message Number: 2321
Hi Folks,

I would appreciate some help with the dash A/C in a 2000 32 ft Allure. There is no cool air coming out of the vents just warm air yet the compressor pulley clutch is engaged and the compressor shaft is rotating. This should mean that the hi-low sensor senses adequate fluid. What else could be wrong? Thanks for any replies,
Fred Kovol

Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes http://autos.yahoo.com

Re: Failed Dash A/C

Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2323
Hi Fred,

Compressor clutch will engage even though there is not enough fluid to really cool...You'll need guages, or at least a gauge for the low side to measure and see if it's about 20-25 lbs max...my experience is that if pressure drops to 10-12 then it will not cool very much....even though the clutch will engage..
(You can buy gauge at Wal-Mart in auto for about $20, where they have the R134 or auto stores have high and low gauges, hoses all in a kit for around $100)...if you are convinced that R134 is ok then the Other place to look is at the valve that controls the heat/air mix.
It's under the front of most coaches (at least 99 Allure) is mounted on the frame dead center front. It connected into the engine coolant lines that run to the front heater coils. The valve is controlled by the temperature mix control on the dash...There is a small DC motor that runs to open and close the valve, thus allowing engine coolant to go to the heater coils and adjust the amount of heat,.....sometimes the valves stick partially open and mix warm air into the vents, thus it appears that the A/C is not working...a quick check, although not very scientific, is, with engine warm, to turn the heat on full blast until hot air is coming from vents, and then cycle it off...once off, then air temp should slowly return to amibent...(if not, lots of times the valve is not functioning properly) ...If the temp returns to normal, then cycle A/C on max air....if vents don't begin to cool, then most likely it's low R134.

Hope this helps....

RagaRue

Allure 36, 30322

Re: Failed Dash A/C

Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2325
Hi RagaRue,

Have a question about your answer to Fred:

You said, "A quick check, although not very scientific, is, with engine warm, to turn the heat on full blast until hot air is coming from vents, and then cycle it off...once off, then air temp should slowly return to ambient..."

If you "cycle it off", doesn't all air flow cease and you are unable to tell whether the temp returns to ambient or remains hot.
Besides my front roof air problems (documented in other messages), I have had continuing problems with my dash air ever since I bought the coach. Thought I got it fixed during a visit to factory in October of last year but now it seems to not get "really" cool once again.

Thanks.

Brian

Re: Failed Dash A/C

Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2326
Fred, I hope you don't have the same problem I did with my old '97 Allure dash air. I had it "fixed" at least five times before all the leaks were found. The leaks were so small that it would take a week before the air wasn't cooled. The last place I had it repaired informed me that the system was an old design which used freon. R134 molecules are so much smaller than freon that the system has to be much tighter. The work was covered under waranty but it was a pain in the rear. jerry in NM.

Re: Failed Dash A/C

Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2328
Sorry, what I meant to say was to cycle off the temperature control from hot to cold, but to leave the fans running...not turn off the heat....if the valve is working correctly, changing the temp control from hot to cold will close the valve off and stop the engine coolant from going to the heater coils, thus the air will return to ambient or close to that...if it isn't working, then the unit will continue to blow hot air...generally the valves get stuck open or shut...not half way between....since most of us use A/C more than heat, sometimes the temp control gets moved and we don't realize it...or we turn it on heat so rarely that the valve doesn't cycle back when the heat is turned off....thus, A/C on but mixed with hot air thus seems A/C isn't working....

Actually, if you run A/C and it's too cold...(go figure)...you can move the temp control and mix heat in with vent air to warm it...

Hope this helps...but I'd guess that R134 is low....

Re: Failed Dash A/C

Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2333
Hi RagaRue,

Thanks for the info especially about the about fluid pressure values. CC in 2000 switched to an all vacuum control system using 3 vacuum motors, but I'm sure the one that controls the heat cold damper is not operating.
Fred Kovol

--- ragarue ragarue@...> wrote:

Quote
Hi Fred,

Compressor clutch will engage even though there is > not enough fluid

to really cool...You'll need guages, or at least a > gauge for the low

side to measure and see if it's about 20-25 lbs > max...my experience

is that if pressure drops to 10-12 then it will not > cool very

much....even though the clutch will engage..
(You can buy gauge at Wal-Mart in auto for about > $20, where they have

the R134 or auto stores have high and low gauges, > hoses all in a kit

for around $100)...if you are convinced that R134 is > ok then the

Other place to look is at the valve that controls > the heat/air mix.

It's under the front of most coaches (at least 99 > Allure) is mounted

on the frame dead center front. It connected into > the engine coolant

lines that run to the front heater coils. The valve > is controlled by

the temperature mix control on the dash...There is a > small DC motor

that runs to open and close the valve, thus allowing > engine coolant

to go to the heater coils and adjust the amount of > heat,.....sometimes the valves stick partially open > and mix warm air

into the vents, thus it appears that the A/C is not > working...a quick

check, although not very scientific, is, with engine > warm, to turn

the heat on full blast until hot air is coming from > vents, and then

cycle it off...once off, then air temp should slowly > return to

amibent...(if not, lots of times the valve is not > functioning

properly) ...If the temp returns to normal, then > cycle A/C on max

air....if vents don't begin to cool, then most > likely it's low R134.

Hope this helps....

RagaRue

Allure 36, 30322

Re: Failed Dash A/C

Reply #6 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2517
Fred, I may have missed any follow up to this. Did you get it resolved? I had (and still have) a similar problem. I had cold air leaking all around the fan box under the front of the coach. My dealer tried to tape it up but only stopped some of the leaks. The rest will get done at the factory.

Dick May

2002 Intrigue, #11438
Member: CCI, FMCA
Dick May
2002 Intrigue, #11438, towing a
2014 Jeep Gr Cherokee ecoDiesel
 

Re: Failed Dash A/C

Reply #7 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2518
Hi Dick,

CC installed the condenser coil too low and the bottom part rubbed on the two bolts and nuts below it which secures the two radiators together. This caused a hole in the coil with a massive loss of R134a. CC is working a warranty request from me. Also, I requested details on the vacuum controls and H valve wiring as they are not covered in the manuals. I expect an answer in another week.
Fred Kovol

--- MayMR maymr@...> wrote:

Quote
Fred, I may have missed any follow up to this. Did > you get it resolved? I

had (and still have) a similar problem. I had cold > air leaking all around

the fan box under the front of the coach. My dealer > tried to tape it up but

only stopped some of the leaks. The rest will get > done at the factory.

Dick May

2002 Intrigue, #11438
Member: CCI, FMCA