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Slideout roof leak

Yahoo Message Number: 66815
My slideout has a leak when it rains. Water comes into the compartment above the microwave. I need a mobile repair person to come out and fix it. I am near Yuma right now. Any recommendations?

Al Colby

2000 Intrigue 10979

Re: Slideout roof leak

Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 66817
Does water come in when the slide is retracted? If not, then just keep it retracted when it is raining.

Ray

2000 Intrigue 11040

Re: Slideout roof leak

Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 66819
That is what I have been doing. But I really would like to get it properly fixed.

Re: Slideout roof leak

Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 66833
Aside from the main/wiper slide seal, one thing to check is the caulking on top of the slide along each side...if a void develops there you can get leaks as discovered a couple of months ago. Anotehr item is to check the caulking around the windows.

Good luck!

Re: Slideout roof leak

Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 66846
Our Slide out leak was behiend the rubber seal whare the top of the slide and side of the slideout seperated about an eighth of a inch. removed the seal and siliconed it reapplyed the seal but On newer CC'S may be another Issue! Keep us posted, Ken 99 Allure 30356
 

Re: Slideout roof leak

Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 66851
Al,

I have a 1998 Intrigue with slide-out opposite the galley. When I bought it, the walls in the slide showed signs of water leakage coming from somewhere above. The previous owner showed me the paperwork from a respectable RV dealer in MA that had fixed the problem (NOT). As it turns out, there was a separation at the perpendicular intersection of the outer slide wall and the slide roof (essentially where the two meet over the entire length of the slide). This joint was sealed with some kind of caulk, most likely a white silicon. After some probing and attempting to clean out the joint, I detected some loose areas of sealant and some rust underneath in the gap between the horizontal edge of the roof and the vertical edge of the side panel. The gap was also irregular, anywhere from 1/16" up to close to 1/2" in places. It became apparent that just cleaning it out and shooting in more sealant may have worked but wasn't the real answer.
So my plan was to close the gap to a uniform distance along the entire seam, then secure that seam so it couldn't pull apart again. This would entail drilling holes through the very top of the side wall into the square metal frame of the coach just below the intersection of the two surfaces. Then driving self-tapping stainless steel screws at about every 8-10"along the seam. This required that I pull the side wall into the frame to close the gap, which I managed to do with some long pipe clamps (I'm a woodworker). Only then would applying fresh sealant be worthwhile and the permanent fix.
However, before launching the plan, I consulted the techs at the CC factory and spelled it all out for them, both the problem and my plan. They concurred that that would have been their approach as well. They specified that I use SIKAFLEX 291 (made by Technique Sealant Systems) as it is both an adhesive and sealant and would last a long time. Well, it has. That fix was at least 4 years ago and I've never had a minutes trouble with it since. I had to be sure that this was going to work because it forced me to gut the interior affected walls in the slide (down to the insulation and metal frame-work) and replace them completely. Lots of work that I didn't want to repeat.
I surely hope that your problem is something much less daunting and easier to mend. But the point of my telling you all this is that it could be the same problem, but it is fixable, and for good.
If need be, and I hope it isn't, I have a bunch of pictures that I took before, during and after the repair for reference.

Wishing you well and God speed,

Kevin Barron
Intrigue #10550
Annapolis, MD