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Topic: Sour Danfoss fan controller (Read 5918 times) previous topic - next topic
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Re: Sour Danfoss fan controller

Reply #25 –
Yahoo Message Number: 107015
I have a 36 ft 2003 Allure with a Cummins 370 ISL engine. My coolant temperature as I recall stays between 195 and 205 degrees f. When the fan controller was in failure, and the fan was full on, the temp was 180 f and below, even in 90 degree weather.

I get close to 9 mpg on the road. Two years ago on a trip to and around Alaska (from Maryland), I got 9.0 mpg, including the ups and downs of the US West, the Western Canadian provinces and in Alaska. On freeways, I cruise at 62 mph, but for much of the trip in Canada and Alaska, the speeds probably averaged 50 to 55 depending on the road conditions. Note that we occasionally used our generator while camping and I have never factored out that fuel consumption. For some of the more technical folks in the group, I tow a 2009 Chev Malibu and maintain 120 psi in the front tires and 110 psi in the rear. The transmission is an Allison 3000 and I try to keep it in 6th gear. The wind resistance increase dramatically over 50 mph and I believe increases in an exponential manner. My guess if I cruised at 70 between Maryland and Florida, (fairly flat traveling) I would loose 1 to 2 mpg.

Dennis 36ft 2003 Allure #30884

Re: Sour Danfoss fan controller

Reply #26 –
Yahoo Message Number: 107020
Brian,
Thanks for the information on fuel savings.
My 2005 Inspire used to get 7.5 to 8 mpg but is now running 6.8 to 7 mpg and the fan seems to be running all the time. The temps are 185F most of the time probably limited by the engine thermostats.
I was hesitant to go with the wax valve due to the cost but it looks like it will pay for itself over a year or two.
Bob Cole
2005 Inspire 51394

Re: Sour Danfoss fan controller

Reply #27 –
Yahoo Message Number: 107021
Can you physically see the wax valve? I have a 08 Allure with the ISM 500 and don't have an overheating problem and I get 9 mpg. It's a relativity new coach for me so don't know about the wax valve? It does have a brass radiator and I have changed the fuel line CC used for some coolant lines. Any info on what to look for would be helpful!

Dennis 09 Allure 470

Re: Sour Danfoss fan controller

Reply #28 –
Yahoo Message Number: 107023
Don't think you have either. Mine is an 08 Allure and the engine ECM controls the fan speed according to Premier of Oregon. I asked them when I was making the purchase earlier this year.
Glad to be rid of the Sanfros controller.

Buddy Bordes  08 Allure 470  #31597

Re: Sour Danfoss fan controller

Reply #29 –
Yahoo Message Number: 107027
I recently got the fan controller working on my 2007 Inspire C9 and am enjoying almost 2 MPG better fuel mileage operating on flat highway on the prairie here in western Canada. More like 1 MPG in rolling hills and mountains because the fan runs on high a lot more when the engine is working. Also runs a few degrees warmer now when on low speed which is also a good thing for the engine and for better mileage.

Re: Sour Danfoss fan controller

Reply #30 –
Yahoo Message Number: 107034
I put switch on #84, verified voltage at danfoss went off with switch. Was able to push wire through one of the plastic split tubes below shift panel.
Wax valve being installed next week on new radiator. Driving through Colville Wa bolt came out of radiator shroud and hit fan blade, firing it into radiator. Broken fan blade and hole in radiator. Lawson Truck Repair brought water to refill system so I could drive to their shop. They went to work on it immediately. Parts are on order. Wax valve screws into radiator.

Ray Down

06 Inspire 51602

Re: Sour Danfoss fan controller

Reply #31 –
Yahoo Message Number: 107044
How does this control fan speed? As you point out, the fan defaults to high when power is removed.
My two cents.

I am on my 3rd controller and will be switching to the wax valve when this one dies, however I am on year 3 of this one so maybe they figured out how to make them more reliable? I was just starting for the summer when #2 died. Keeping the motor cool is not a problem but running around on high fan speed was unnecessary and not making friends in campgrounds with a dust storm following me.
I wanted to be able to stop the fan as you all know when the motor is cold or the day is cool , you do not need the fan. After all that is the primary reason for the controller in the first place.
I clipped one of the wires between the controller and the selenoid and added a switch from the drivers station.
The selenoid needs to be energized to stop the fan. Thats right folks, remove the 12V and it goes full blast.
I drove around 2 years manually controlling the fan and saving a ton of money on gas. The only drawback, was having to really pay attention to engine temps and yes, I did get a warning light a couple of times and why I finally gave in and replaced the controller again.
More food for thought. Over the years, I have listened to tips on how to keep the engine cool. I have replaced the rad and charge cooler. I have removed the monster rear mudflap. I installed a louvre on my engine hatch. I have a 16" electric fan ty wrapped to the rad grill which I controll, which is more for the dash air when stopped or slow speed in town. My fan does not run, repeat does not come on when the outside temperature is below 80 degrees. Otherwise, the fan controller does its job and switches on the fan when either the A/C or engine temps demands it. I toured all of Atlanic Canada one summer and the fan never came on. Of course this does not apply to Florida in the summer or or the southwest, but it stays off a heck of a long time until its needed.

Ed McManus......'02 Intrigue .....11361.....166,000 miles and running strong.

Re: Sour Danfoss fan controller

Reply #32 –
Yahoo Message Number: 107046
Ed,

From my understanding, and someone correct me if I'm wrong, the controller is all electronic. I think most people have the problem of the fan staying on at all times. The controller takes signals from the coolant temperature, intake temperature and a/c pressure to tell the hydraulic solinoid how much to open. This is sent from the controller by a PCM signal to the hydraulic solinoid. Fred Koval on this groupe made his own PCM solinoid driver. I think he purchased the driver on eBay and reprogrammed it using caps and a oscilloscope.

So it's not hard to get the fan to full speed, it takes some work to slow it down.....I'd get the wax valve.

Bill

Re: Sour Danfoss fan controller

Reply #33 –
Yahoo Message Number: 107047
Bill....you are not wrong. I did not say clip the wire going to the controller. I said one of the wires between the controller and the hydraulic solenoid. In other words the wire from the controller to the solenoid. I'm not suggesting this as a pernanant fix but as a stop gap to be able to finish ones summer trip without waiting for weeks for what can be a difficult part to procur or for that matter one that is programmed for your application. When I bought my bus 10 years ago, my controller had failed since day 1 and I not knowing any better ran around the whole season with a roaring fan. Then to rub salt in the wound, The Lazy Days mechanic ordered a new controller which was on back order only to find the controller was fine and it was the temperature sensor that was unplugged! Its sad when the owner turns out to be a better mechanic than the RV service department.
The same applies whenever you need work on your HWH slide or leveling system..My second failure was in Alaska where they have hundreds of gravel roads and I still have the rocks and stones to prove it. I had already said in my post that my next controller was to be the wax valve.

Ed McManus.....11361.......'02 Intrigue....400 ISL

Re: Sour Danfoss fan controller

Reply #34 –
Yahoo Message Number: 107049
Ed,

So your saying you fed the hydraulic solinoid with 12 volts to keep the fan off? If so I was going to try that as well. But after reading the controller fed the solinoid with a PCM signal I was afraid I'd damage the solinoid. I would then have to wait for a new controller/solinoid.
Good idea and glad it worked for you!

Bill
 

Re: Sour Danfoss fan controller

Reply #35 –
Yahoo Message Number: 107133
Quote

On Jul 9, 2016 2:41 PM, "mrgrandbanksed@... [Country-Coach-Owners]"  wrote:

Quote

Bill....you are not wrong. I did not say clip the wire going to the controller. I said one of the wires between the controller and the hydraulic solenoid. In other words the wire from the controller to the solenoid. I'm not suggesting this as a pernanant fix but as a stop gap to be able to finish ones summer trip without waiting for weeks for what can be a difficult part to procur or for that matter one that is programmed for your application. When I bought my bus 10 years ago, my controller had failed since day 1 and I not knowing any better ran around the whole season with a roaring fan. Then to rub salt in the wound, The Lazy Days mechanic ordered a new controller which was on back order only to find the controller was fine and it was the temperature sensor that was unplugged! Its sad when the owner turns out to be a better mechanic than the RV service department.
The same applies whenever you need work on your HWH slide or leveling system..My second failure was in Alaska where they have hundreds of gravel roads and I still have the rocks and stones to prove it. I had already said in my post that my next controller was to be the wax valve.

Ed McManus.....11361.......'02 Intrigue....400 ISL

Ed,

From my understanding, and seling systemomeone correct me if I'm wrong, the controller is all electronic. I think most people have the problem of the fan staying on at all times. The controller takes signals from the coolant temperature, intake temperature and a/c pressure to tell the hydraulic solinoid how much to open. This is sent from the controller by a PCM signal to the hydraulic solinoid. Fred Koval on this groupe made his own PCM solinoid driver. I think he purchased the driver on eBay and reprogrammed it using caps and a oscilloscope.

So it's not hard to get the fan to full speed, it takes some work to slow it down.....I'd get the wax valve.

Bill

Posted by: mrgrandbanksed@...
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