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Topic: Temp Gauges & Black Tank Odors (Read 789 times) previous topic - next topic
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Temp Gauges & Black Tank Odors

Yahoo Message Number: 26587
Hi Guys...We have had both and a note about our experiences may help.
First: Temp Gauges...We had a 1995 "SOB" with a 5.9L 230HP Cummings that ran well for several years until we stated to experience "overheating". We spent a lot of time and $ on hydraulic fan controllers and motor...that did not fix the problem to find out that the problem was not in the engine but a "leak" short in the DC return to the temp gague. The temp would go up if the headlights would be turned on and would go down if they were turned off. A friend who is a test pilot said that this is also a problem in the instrumentation in airplanes who also depend on a very good DC ground plain.

Second: I had posted this earlier on my problem with black take odors was solved by changing the seal around the base of the toilet. A little smelly and messy but it solved my problem.

Lou

Re: Temp Gauges & Black Tank Odors

Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 26602
Question about the toilet seal. People on quite a few of these lists are reporting odor emanating from a poor seal at the toilet base, even after a year or two. All report the odor gone when they replace the seal with a new one. The question is: having inspected the new seal and the seal area, would you say it's possible to construct a better seal, whether using a more compliant or longer-lasting material or by fashioning a different shape or thickness? Or is the inherent weakness of the screw-down mount (and our ever-increasing body weights) going to be a problem with any seal one might construct?
When I open mine up in the near future, I'd like to fix this once and for all (okay, at least 4 years). Any thoughts?

Bill & Debbie in San Diego
 

Re: Temp Gauges & Black Tank Odors

Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 26603
I have had my toilet apart several times. Unlike the seal in our homes, it is very easy to misalign the parts. First there is little room either front to back or side to side. Secondly it is a single person job so it is more difficult to insure alignment. The seal itself is not made form the material in our house. I believe it to be closed cell foam. This foam is used in our cars, planes etc. Due to the toilet design the seal diameter is not as big as I would like it. So if you get off alignment you can then be off of center on the seal and I think this originates the smell. I went through two seals trying to place some silicone to help fill the possible gap. That did not work, big time. Finally, I removed the toilet, place the seal over the tube and then very slowly put the toilet in place. Without pushing down I got the holding screws started then just tighten the unit carefully and doing the best I could to get everything straight up and down. I was successful. I have to admit that I am not the best home repair guy, so others may have better ideas, or know of a mistake I was making.
I also found the hold down screws not like our home toilet. That is given the limited space they mount on an angle, and that does not help the seating issue at all. Most importantly it makes for installation errors and that means stink. In fact once the screws are in on an angle if is very hard to change. Having an angle drill head is most helpful.
Given what I know now, I would have measured for some anchors. Drill the hole and placed the anchors. Mounted the toilet, and then bolted the unit together. Easy removal and everything stays aligned. Bolts could be shorter and flat head wrench would work.
I almost forget I had a CC installed Aura(sp) by Tetford. Toilet was porcelain. I did replace the automatic flush with a manual, works much better. Also I am not a big fan of the new flat seals used in the CC higher end toilets, but that is another story.