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Dash air

Yahoo Message Number: 18999
If you want to test the dash air to see if it is working efficiently, you can use a small thermometer that will displays the proper range.
As I recall from my servicing days in the auto business, about the best you can expect the dash air to do with today's R-34-A (ozone friendly) systems is around 55 degrees in the a/c duct, read with the thermometer probe.
The old "ozone busting" R-12 systems would get down as low as 45 degrees, but any lower and you would experience ice problems within the system.
I've had my system apart to change the heater core and I can assure you that the a/c evaporator is pretty small for the task.
The problem we face in these big ole busses is the huge volume of air we are trying to cool with a standard automotive system.
In a car, you can cool the air within the vehicle in a short period of time, especially in the "recirculate" mode.
If you can get your system down in the 50's or low 60's, you don't have a problem. If it isn't getting that cold, you may want to look at something within the system.
You may want to check the a/c tubes behind the dash for obstructions or kinks. Also make sure the system has the proper amount of R-34-A by having an automotive shop test the pressure.

Larry
Intrigue
10762

Re: Dash air

Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 19002
Larry, thanks for the feedback on my question. Holland has been looking at the issue and say there are no leaks and everything seems fine. I think once I get it back I will do some temperature measurements as you suggest. This answers my question about cold air regardless of ambient temperature. My issue was the air was blowing hot at about the same temperature as outside, clearly an issue. So even if I tested in an outside temperature of 70 I should still see someting in the range og 60 or less. Right?

Kary

05 Inspire 36'
#51499

Quote from: LARRY A HANSON
>

If you want to test the dash air to see if it is working
efficiently, you can use a small thermometer that will displays the proper range.

Quote
>

As I recall from my servicing days in the auto business, about the
best you can expect the dash air to do with today's R-34-A (ozone friendly) systems is around 55 degrees in the a/c duct, read with the thermometer probe.

Quote
>

The old "ozone busting" R-12 systems would get down as low as 45
degrees, but any lower and you would experience ice problems within the system.

Quote
>

I've had my system apart to change the heater core and I can assure
you that the a/c evaporator is pretty small for the task.

Quote
>

The problem we face in these big ole busses is the huge volume of
air we are trying to cool with a standard automotive system.

Quote
>

In a car, you can cool the air within the vehicle in a short period
of time, especially in the "recirculate" mode.

Quote
>

If you can get your system down in the 50's or low 60's, you don't
have a problem. If it isn't getting that cold, you may want to look at something within the system.

Quote
>

You may want to check the a/c tubes behind the dash for
obstructions or kinks. Also make sure the system has the proper amount of R-34-A by having an automotive shop test the pressure.

Re: Dash air

Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 19005
Under ideal conditions you can expect a 20 degree drop in air temp. That is, 20 degrees difference between in and out air temps. If the system is low or undersized than you will get less of a difference. 15 degrees is considered OK.

billy byte

2k Allure 30443

----- Original Message Follows ----- From: "LARRY A HANSON" larryhanson01@...> To: "Country-Coach-Owners2"

Country-Coach-Owners@yahoogroups.com> Subject: [Country-Coach-Owners] Dash air Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2005 16:42:42 -0600

Dash air

Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 19019
We had what sounds like the exact same problem with our dash air. It never blew cold while we were moving, but when it was checked by the techs they said it checked out fine. Dale Raymond at CC told us to find the water valve near the front of the the coach which carries the hot water to the heating coils and when the ac switch is turned on, and the temp is set to cool, that valve shuts off the hot water to the coils thus allowing the ac to cool. We found it and pinched it off completely so no water could flow to the heating coils and viola, the ac started to put out cold air. Dale sent us the valve and we installed it ourselves and have had no problems since. What was happening was that the valve did not close completely and was letting hot water flow through the coils causing the air to be warmer than the ac could handle. When it was tested the water did not get hot enough to force its way through the faulty valve until we began to move and the water pressure increased. Hope this helps.

Ray, Doris, Klondike
04 Inspire 51023
02 Jeep Liberty

Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.

Re: Dash air

Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 19022
Ray,

Had the same problem with a/c on my coach and the problem was also related to the heater hot water valve. Tech replaced the valve and the a/c worked fine. Not had a problem with a/c after valve was replaced approximately 9/04.
Jon

2004 Inspire, #51008

Quote from: Ray Reeves\[br\
]
We had what sounds like the exact same problem with our dash air.
It never blew cold while we were moving, but when it was checked by the techs they said it checked out fine. Dale Raymond at CC told us to find the water valve near the front of the the coach which carries the hot water to the heating coils and when the ac switch is turned on, and the temp is set to cool, that valve shuts off the hot water to the coils thus allowing the ac to cool. We found it and pinched it off completely so no water could flow to the heating coils and viola, the ac started to put out cold air. Dale sent us the valve and we installed it ourselves and have had no problems since. What was happening was that the valve did not close completely and was letting hot water flow through the coils causing the air to be warmer than the ac could handle. When it was tested the water did not get hot enough to force its way through the faulty valve until we began to move and the water pressure increased. Hope this