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Waste valve problem

Yahoo Message Number: 80976
My 3" black water valve had a slight leak so I bought a new valve along with a 1 1/2" to replace at the same time on my Intrigue. Easy job right? Wrong. On my coach, they use a Y drain that has the valves mounted between the tanks with a very short nipple between the valve and tank. Its very clear that the assembly was installed before the last tank was bolted in place. I managed to remove the Y drain and valves by twisting the assembly and the "giving" of the 3" nipple and flexing of the side of the black tank. After struggling for 2 hours in trying to install the valves, it seems hopeless unless I move one or the other tank. For the time being, the black water valve is installed only and the grey is open. Is there something I'm really doing wrong?? The cover panel for the tanks seems very complicated with numerous srews and calking. Any tips on its removal??

Ed McManus.............36' 02 Intrigue.....11361.

Re: Waste valve problem

Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 80977
My SOB has a similar setup.

Get a pry bar and take advantage of the flex that is available. Two helpers to hold the flex while you install the valves might make it easier.
I did. You can too.

Bob Wexler
SOB

Re: Waste valve problem

Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 80979
Bob...I considered that but the "flex" is minimal and there is not much to pry on. I'm also worried about cracking the tank and/or the flange. The valve must go straight on to ensure the seal is properly seated.
Ed McManus....'02 Intrigue.....11361

Re: Waste valve problem

Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 80980
Ed,

I remember that I read a tip from someone on this forum years ago. So, I tried it.... and it worked! It is a little hard to describe the procedure. But, I will do the best I can: Cut two pieces of heavy celluloid sheet material into squares about 2"-3" larger than the valve. I believe that I lubed them with petroleum jelly or KY gel. The valve should be in its closed position. Then, I placed the celluloid pieces over each side of the replacement valve. I used a prying stick to flex the tank neck and/or the "Y" just enough to fit the new valve into the exact right position with the celluloid covers in place. Then I slid out out the celluloid pieces one at a time as I fitted the new valve in place. It helps to have three hands to do this job. The trick is to use care not to disfigure the flexible valve gaskets in the process.
I hope this makes sense.

Daron Hairabedian, 98 Allure, 30226

Re: Waste valve problem

Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 80981
Ed,

PS: You should need to flex the fittings only about 1/4" to provide enough clearance to fit the new valve this way. The tanks are made of heavy Polyethylene (Tupperware). That small amount of flex should not do any harm. Just do not use a heavy hand.
Daron

Re: Waste valve problem

Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 80988
Before all the replies came in I had already decided that I would have to move one of the tanks so I proceeded to remove the trim panel. I think CC built the coach around it as I never did completely remove it. I happened to be in a RV park In Superior, Wi as its very important to flush out the black tank as clean as possible and being hooked up is helpful. (we boondock a lot). One of my neighboors inquired what I was doing so I told him a white lie as I did not really wish to advertise that If I coudn't hook up the grey valve, I would be dumping it o the ground. I was struggling to drill out a frozen screw with a worn out bit when he came back with his Dewalt and sharper bits. It was then that I confided with him. As others have suggested he knew that the tank was made of polyetelene and not fiberglass and that it would flex enough but how to pry it? A spreader jack placed between the tanks would work but we made do with a 2x4 and a large crescent wrench to help spread them that extra 1/2 ". Mine was a real shoe horn fit and I had to spread them at least 2". Guess my tanks must bulge somewhat. It took several tries as the seal kept rolling off the lip, but it turns out superglue will hold the seal in place as long as the release wax is cleaned from the mating surface. Of course there are other products that will work as well such as 3M windshield contact cement but mine was too old. Thanks to all who replied.
Ed McManus..........'02 Intrigue..............11361