Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: 2nd Slide Paint Repair (Read 671 times) previous topic - next topic
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

2nd Slide Paint Repair

Yahoo Message Number: 83354
Howdy Folks,

I just finished spraying the clear coat on the second slide's trim. All is proceeding well, albeit slowly. My write up is here:

http://www.muniac.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=147#Post147 Now I need to wait for the clear coat to harden (2 days) then re-caulk the bead. Last part is putting on the corner bumper. The article link also shows my compressed air connection. Perhaps this has some value for a few DIYers out there.

PS: A while back I rigged up my Norcold to run off the invertor. Several here asked for more information. I'm working on a write-up now. Will post it soon.

Best - Scott

2006 Allure 430 40' #31349

(Bus-Stead Lemon) My Allure Page http://www.muniac.com/Allure%20Page.html

Re: 2nd Slide Paint Repair

Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83356
Great write up Scott! Looks very nice. I'm thinking of trying my hand at painting a section of the front of my coach. Just one color. I'll keep your very useful information handy should I get around to this project.

Jim

99 Magna #5629

Re: 2nd Slide Paint Repair

Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83357
Jim,

Glad the information helped you out. I had some trepidations about tackling this sort of project. It took me a year or so to jump in. From experience I know the hardest part of any job is getting started. The next hardest part is cleaning up afterwards. But it isn't bad if you proceed systematically thinking carefully about each step. The lacquer base coat clear coat paint systems out now are reasonably forgiving. I'm impressed with the progress they've made with automotive paint over the years. I practiced on cardboard cut from clean boxes first. That helps you become familiar with the gun and its settings. Tons and tons if good information on the internet about painting to include instructional videos. Watch as much as you can. As for my little project, I'm very happy with the results. Better than expected and that's all I could ask for. And I don't miss holding up in the body shop and the bills coming afterwards. Good luck and let me know how it works out.

At 04:35 PM 10/20/2012, you wrote:

Re: 2nd Slide Paint Repair

Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83358
Scott,

Did you need to use an air drier inline to keep moisture from messing up the paint? I heard that this is required. Did you have any problem? Daron Hairabedian, 98 Allure 30226

Re: 2nd Slide Paint Repair

Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83359
Daron,

I didn't need to use any air drying filter. The air brake air is already conditioned. I had no problems with using the spray gun off this supply. For oil sump compressors it's another story. You need a water separator and oil filter. I'd also add humidity here in Colorado is very dry. Perhaps that helps.

At 08:24 PM 10/20/2012, you wrote:

Re: 2nd Slide Paint Repair

Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83360
Regardless of what the can says, 2 days is not sufficient drying/hardening time. Especially if you ever need to redo the caulking. If you had baked the clear coat after spraying, ie in a paint booth, it will take more hardening time.

Mikee

Re: 2nd Slide Paint Repair

Reply #6 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83361
Mikee - Thanks for the information. I used Akzo Nobel U-Tech 4.0 (two component high solids clear coat) with the fast activator. I will inspect the clear coat in 2 days and see what gives. As for what the can says...... Well it's actually 2 cans and neither one has instructions. Their tech bulletin on the product, however, indicates a nominal 15 hours dry time @ 70F and dust free in 45 minutes. This seems about right based on the first spraying I did with this product. To be on the safe side, I allowed 48 hours before doing anything. As for slide #2, if it isn't cured fully then, I simply wait longer. No harm done. You mentioned 2 days not being sufficient time. How long should I wait? And in your opinion, how can I be assured of a fully cured product? Anything you can provide to assist the parking lot autobody guy would be most appreciated.

At 05:34 AM 10/21/2012, you wrote:

Re: 2nd Slide Paint Repair

Reply #7 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83366
What most of the tech info does not mention is it is written for body shops with paint booths. They usually bake paint work for 1 to 3 hours after spraying. The baking (infrared lights heating the surface) accelerates the drying and hardening time. The actual cure time depends on temp, humidity, sunlight, etc. It can be anywhere from 2 days to 30 days. The longer you can wait the more chance of it being fully cured. The issue if it not fully cured is the caulk will soak or migrate into the top of the clear. This makes it pretty hard to remove in the future. There is a reason they tell you not to wax for 30 days.

Mikee

Re: 2nd Slide Paint Repair

Reply #8 –
Yahoo Message Number: 83367
Mikee - Thanks for the insight. I'll make a note of this in my article. Temperatures here are cool and humidity is very low. I do get a warming sun on the trim now for several hours in the afternoon. I'll assume from that, I'd be nearer the longer end of the cure time. As for waxing, I hate that project and may put it off until next season. Delaying a waxing job 30 days is an easy task.

At 08:42 AM 10/21/2012, you wrote: