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Securing electric outlets

Yahoo Message Number: 92718
I have several electric outlets on a 2007 Intrigue that are barely haning on. They are held in the cut out by 2 plastic pieces that are weak and break. anyone come up with a fix for this problem?

Re: Securing electric outlets

Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 92719
If you have space on each side of faceplate, drill a small hole on each side & screw it down. 2nd option replace with standard home outlet found at Home depot or Lowes Etc. they have stronger wing tabs.
Good luck

Havey, 2006 Magna 6670

Re: Securing electric outlets

Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 92728
Harvey

I have been replacing them with standard house boxes designed for retrofitting.

Dan 2006 Allure 31348 C-9

Re: Securing electric outlets

Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 92733
I've replaced several of my outlets with metal junction boxes and standard Eagle duplex residential outlets. Here's a photo of one I did: http://muniac.smugmug.com/Maintenance/Winter-Preps-Interior/i-5JKxDvH/0/M/img_2118-M.jpg This was an upgrade to a 20A split circuit to safely run an electric space heater load while preserving a single outlet connected to the P/S circuit. Outlets can be split be removing the shorting tab. You'll probably not want to do this, however. This has nothing to do with mounting the outlet. I mention this just so folks know it can be done if required.

The Homo Depot has metal junction boxes with side clips that allow mounting it within a blind hole. A template comes with the box so a proper hole can be cut for its outline. It turns out this is very close to the OEM hole provided for the cheap plastic outlets. Close means you'll need to do a small amount of enlarging to accommodate the metal box. I used my Exacto knife handle fitted with a small saw blade. This takes a few minutes and isn't difficult. From there you can feed the AC wiring through the metal box and install it in the new hole. A strain relief is provided within the box for the wire. Tightening the screws on either side of the box will bring the clamps up and lock the box flush with the panel it's mounted in. From there you can mount a standard residential Eagle duplex outlet (also available at the Homo Depot) and wire it accordingly. Once you go this route there are zillions of cover plates to pick from. I was happy with this approach and certainly offer it as an improvement over the cheap plastic trailer grade outlets CC installed.

Good luck with the project.

Best - Scott

2006 Allure 430 40' #31349

(Bus-Stead Lemon) My Allure Page http://www.muniac.com/Allure%20Page.html

Re: Securing electric outlets

Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 92756
Thanks for the help I think I'll replace them , or at least the ones that give me a problem. Silly for them to use such crap when we pay high bucks for the coach. I'm even more surprised by the STUPID way my electric power cord just sits in the box every which way in the box in the closet. Those cords were designed to be around a reel and not just stored every which way. Wait until it gets so stuck you have to take the cover over and straighted it out. NOT FUN.

Re: Securing electric outlets

Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 92770
+1 on the outlets. But it doesn't stop there unfortunately. They've used Molex connectors in the AC power runs (P/S & D/S outlet circuits) in strategic places. The connectors aren't bad if they are installed properly. Which in one case, on my bus, they weren't. That being under the refrigerator in a very difficult spot to access. Those connectors are designed to accept a single conductor in a push down block for each terminal. Too lazy/cheap to install a proper junction box, CC jammed two conductors in the connector. The second conductor which sits on top of the first doesn't make a proper contact. In my case this led to an open circuit (dead D/S forward outlets) which was difficult to find.
And more difficult to repair. The connector was mounted to wood which is a combustible material. Just not smart or safe. Such a scheme would never fly in a residential building.

If you are referring to the 50A 4 wire AC power feed, mine is on a motorized reel. The slip rings on these can become corroded which leads to an open circuit. One doesn't have to stretch their imagination to see the severity of this should the ground and/or neutral wires becoming disconnected. More junk, which I'll be removing this Spring in favor of the sprawled out cord. Your power cord might not be the most convenient to handle but a hard wired connection is safe and reliable. Something to be said for that and worth a small bit of extra effort IMHO.

Good luck and safe travels. PS: Didn't see any bus information in your signature line??

Best - Scott

2006 Allure 430 40' #31349

(Bus-Stead Lemon) My Allure Page http://www.muniac.com/Allure%20Page.html

Re: Securing electric outlets

Reply #6 –
Yahoo Message Number: 92783
FYI

I was having problems with power coming into the coach. Checked transfer switch and surge protector. Turned out to be corroded contacts on the power cord reel that Scott is referring to in his comment on cord reels.

Dan 2006 Allure 31348 C-9

Re: Securing electric outlets

Reply #7 –
Yahoo Message Number: 92784
Dan & Others - A hazardous situation! On my bus, the transfer switch and surge protector seem to be installed responsibly and are of good quality. The only issue I'm aware of in that group is the RC timing circuit in the transfer switch. I gather there is a capacitor in there that breaks down causing problems with the timing circuit. Which means the transfer switch waits an indefinite period of time to change state.
The PC board needs a small amount of rework to replace the capacitor.
Easy and inexpensive if I'm recalling the details. So far, mine is working properly.

50A service is provided in 2 120 VAC phases. The neutral is basically the center tap of the power company's transformer which divides the 240 winding (line 1 & line 2 in your breaker box). If this lets loose, then the ground becomes that reference which compromises the system. I'd hope the surge protector would catch this and/or a faulty ground to avoid problems in the down stream electrical system.

This is on my "inspection" list under the category of proactive maintenance items. I've avoided using the reel because I question the quality of the slip rings. Per usual, I'll take photos and write this up for the benefit of others. I think the company that made that reel is no longer in business. You can scrap the old adage of, "If it ain't broke don't fix it." Good luck and safe travels to everyone.

Best - Scott

2006 Allure 430 40' #31349

(Bus-Stead Lemon) My Allure Page http://www.muniac.com/Allure%20Page.html

Re: Securing electric outlets

Reply #8 –
Yahoo Message Number: 92785
My power reel did not have any slip rings. Not sure what you are referring to. Don Seager

Re: Securing electric outlets

Reply #9 –
Yahoo Message Number: 92786
Don - How is the electrical connection (4 conductor 50A service) made through your rotating reel?? I'd be interested in exploring your solution beyond just mentioning what it did not have. Perhaps this post will mitigate any confusion about my reference. As in, what specific technique is being used to allow an AC power source to cross a rotating member. Understanding these things hopefully leads to more reliable products. Normally good design practice handles this via slip rings or some swivel connection variation of them. For those not on board with this, a slip ring is a circular contact ring usually made from a copper alloy. Against which a spring loaded brush or contact presses against the ring's outside diameter. The idea is both parts (ring and brush) can remain fixed to their respective members (allowing hard wiring) while allowing rotational motion between the members. Usually one member is fixed and the other rotates like a reel on a supported axle.
It's very reliable, simple, rugged, compact and a proven design which has stood the test of time. You'll find this mechanism in automotive alternators allowing power to be conducted out of the rotating armature.

Best - Scott

2006 Allure 430 40' #31349

(Bus-Stead Lemon) My Allure Page http://www.muniac.com/Allure%20Page.html

Re: Securing electric outlets

Reply #10 –
Yahoo Message Number: 92787
Regarding the power cable. The type of reel that coils the cable on a rotating drum uses a slip Ring contact. The type used by CC uses a fixed termination to the coach wiring at the bottom Of the cable box. The cable is fed into the box with motor driven friction rollers that feed the cable in a circular direction to aid in coiling into the box Bob 06 intrigue. 12047

Re: Securing electric outlets

Reply #11 –
Yahoo Message Number: 92788
Scott

I hope you are wrong about the company being out of business. OMC has ordered a new one, apparently they are only being made to order. I was told it would be about 2 weeks. They took my money?????

Dan 2006 Allure 31348 C-9

Re: Securing electric outlets

Reply #12 –
Yahoo Message Number: 92790
Dan - As for suspected unsupported failed parts, I always hope I'm wrong. No glee in perpetuating problems and/or difficulties. Of interest is managing the electrical cord. I've found a loose stow-able coil is easy to create by hand. Our cord usually lies on the ground six months at a time. It gets crapped up. I clean it with a damp towel then coil up the clean cord. It then stows nicely in the bay near the transfer switch. My cord will catch on the entrance hole making it difficult to pay onto the reel. Catching causes the reel to bump slightly under the torque which I don't think helps it. There are no rollers on the way through the hole. It just isn't practical. I used to pull the cord through the hole first, then reel it up so it goes on smoothly. I'd just prefer a nice stable hook in there to stow the cable. Would actually provide a touch more space too. Good luck with your repair and I hope all goes smoothly.

Best - Scott

2006 Allure 430 40' #31349

(Bus-Stead Lemon) My Allure Page http://www.muniac.com/Allure%20Page.html

Re: Securing electric outlets

Reply #13 –
Yahoo Message Number: 92791

Dan,

Sorry but the company is out of business. I called the company that now make the reels and were told that they are made in South America and they are made when someone or some company orders them.
My problem was that I had a bad side wheel that the hand crank was attached to and I was looking at just replacing it. I was told that they do not have any parts and I was forced to order one from RVUpgrade and wait 4-6 weeks to get it.

Dave
07 Country Coach Allure 430 #31495
2 Jeep GC Toad
Mountains of So Cal


On Saturday, December 7, 2013 1:59 PM, Dan Fahrion wrote:

Scott

I hope you are wrong about the company being out of business. OMC has ordered a new one, apparently they are only being made to order. I was told it would be about 2 weeks. They took my money?????

Dan 2006 Allure 31348 C-9
Dave & Jodi
2007 CC Allure 40’ Tag #31495
2012 Jeep GC
Big Bear Lake, Ca & Henderson, Nev

Re: Securing electric outlets

Reply #14 –
Yahoo Message Number: 92794
Glendinning Products is the manufacturer of the Cablemaster line of products used in both of the Country Coaches that I have owned. The product is simple and not particularly troublesome. They don't appear to be out of business as they have a rich presence on the internet.

George in Birmingham '03 Magna 6298
George in Birmingham
2003 Magna 6298

Re: Securing electric outlets

Reply #15 –
Yahoo Message Number: 92796
Power Cables

My 2003 Intrigue uses a cable master by Glendinning Products It is hard wired and is safe and a great way to store your cable. These cable reels must have came after CC started taking short cuts. You can google Cable Master and you can see how they work.
Rex 2003 Intrigue 11543

Re: Securing electric outlets

Reply #16 –
Yahoo Message Number: 92800
Scott and others. I have the Glendenning power cord "management" (I use the word loosely) system. But only last week after several issues with the cord extending or retracting I took the box cover off in the wardrobe. The install manual shows the cable dropping into the barrel, but CC have put mine on the side so the drive wheel is pushing the cable into the container which obviously reates the problems of retraction getting fouled. Not much I can do as the relationship of the outside access point to the space inside is too low. I cut myself an access hole to provide for me to get my hand in to release the drive wheel cam and or adjust the clamp rollers if needed.
However to the point of the cable going into the container in an irregular fashion. I would assume this is good practice. You will frequently have power running into the coach with only a short amount of cable released, the balance, if held in a nice coil, would create all sorts of electrical issues, including heat!

Michael

2008 Allure 31683

Re: Securing electric outlets

Reply #17 –
Yahoo Message Number: 92801
Dave

If I had been thinking and had had this information, I would have kept the parts and put them out there. OMC was going to replace the end roller on my main awning with a take off they had salvaged from another job but I have the eclipse model versus the standard awning and it would not fit. Carefree does not stock parts for the older eclipse awning and so I am waiting for it to break.

Dan 2006 Allure 31348 C-9

Re: Securing electric outlets

Reply #18 –
Yahoo Message Number: 92805
I changed my reel out 2 years ago, and the company, TDI, that made the original reels went out of business. I purchased mine from TCI, who purchased the product line. They are the manufacturer of the Surge Guard. The web site is:

http://www.trci.net/products/shoreline-reels/cord-reels-rv-marine/50-amp-rv-power-cord-reels. The reels can be purchased from:http://www.rvupgradestore.com/.
John Beach

06 Allure 31309