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Topic: BRAKE SQUEAL (Read 1896 times) previous topic - next topic
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Re: BRAKE SQUEAL

Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 1144
My '98 Intrigue squealed like it was haunted but only after being parked for a few days or when damp. After a few miles they would stop. I haven't heard anything from my new coach.... yet.

Dick May

2002 Intrigue, #11438
Member: CCI, FMCA
Dick May
2002 Intrigue, #11438, towing a
2014 Jeep Gr Cherokee ecoDiesel

Re: BRAKE SQUEAL

Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 1147
Our brakes squeeked when the coach was new and the factory said they had to be burnished; this was supposed to be done before we picked it up.

Re: BRAKE SQUEAL

Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 1148
I would say it is abnormal. The breaks on my 2001 Intrigue make no noise at all.

Re: BRAKE SQUEAL

Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 1158
I had a similar problem on my 2000 40" Intrigue. I took it into a shop and they used a airhose to blow the dust out if the brake drums (apparently the back is quite open), and adjusted the brakes. This is recommended every 15 -20,000 miles.
The only time that I have minor noises now is when it has been parked for a while and is cold, but the noise goes away after some driving.
I tihnk the dust is starting to build up again after 8,000 miles.
If you tow, I would strongly recommend a braking system for the car.
It takes tremendous strain off the coach brakes (I drove mine quite a while before I put one on).

My coach stops better with the tow car behind it that without it!
I recommend the M&G Engineering system. It is fully pnuematic and has no parts or wiring inside the passengers compartment. All you need to do is hook up and air hose with 2 quick disconnects.

Re: BRAKE SQUEAL

Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 1169
One of the posts on this subject suggested glazing the brakes by heating them up on a long downhill run.

DANGER-----DANGER-----DANGER-----DANGER-----DANGER-----DANGER

DON'T DO THIS!!!

The more glazed a brake pad the more squeel. Don't listen to this bull about heating up the brakes on a long downhill unless you feel you really want to try out one of the emergency ramps. I've done it, not on purpose, in a 18 wheeler on a test. Believe me it is not fun. and it is damn dangerous. Beyond that the emergency ramps were not designed to accomodate a fiberglass front end approx 13 inches above the ground. --- If you are interested in more on overheating brakes see the end of this post.---

To test the lack of value of the glazing idea remove a wheel and sandpaper (roughen) the shoes realy well. You will find the squeel is gone until the pads begin to get smooth (glaze) again.

Squeel is sound, right? Sound is vibration. I spent several years with the largest air brake manufacturer in the world. We had problems with rufuse trucks and squeeling brakes. A real problem in up-scale neighborhoods at 5:00 am. The solution was always to find parts with enough excess tolerance to vibrate and correct the excessive tolerance.

If your problem is really bad go to a service center and have the cam, cam bushings and rollers replaced and check for any other loose or cracked components. Sometimes small cracks in mountings that will not affect performance will affect noise. This method is safe.
Heating brakes is dangerous.

----DANGER------- Heating Brakes --------DANGER---- Ever hear of brake fade? Let's talk about it. Brake shoes have a limited amount of travel (less than 1"). When brakes heat up there are two parts that generate the heat. The brake shoe and the brake drum (due to friction of rubbing against each other). Unfortunately, the brake drum has the ability to expand beond the reach of the shoes. This is called brake fade.

Brake fade sounds innocent, right? Be careful. Brake fade means you have NO BRAKES. Again, NO BRAKES. Don't ever let anyone convince you to ride your brakes on a "long downhill" for any reason. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER RIDE BRAKES on large vehicles.
Use your PAC brake or Jake brake as much as possible on long downhill runs. Do not hold the air brake on any longer than necessary to slow or stop the vehicle.

Note? Air Disc brakes are nearly immune to brake fade due to heat. It is my belief that all large RV's with Air Brakes should be equipped with air disc brakes. In disc brakes as the rotor (vs. drum) expands it requires less travel of the pads to apply brakes. Air disc brakes (like in cars) use a clamping force to apply brakes and fade is almost non-existent.

Sorry for the long post but I felt the post by a well meaning but uninformed individual about glazing brakes on a long downhill had to be addressed to avoid killing someone. DONT DO IT!!